help, trans is unhappy

[ST1TCHE5]

Hey, just got back from proving grounds at BIR in Minnesota this weekend and i ran into a problem on the way back. i feel a pulsation in the clutch pedal and can hear almost describable as a knocking sound from the bellhousing and the worse it gets the harder it gets to shift. i managed to stop in a parking lot and jack the car up to get a better look, didnt notice anything just playing with the clutch pedal but when i started it the pressure plate didnt look true, whether the pressure plate or flywheel bolts are coming loose, or something else. this isnt the first time this has happened to me, seems like everytime i take the flywheel off and put it back on it works fine for like 2 weeks and starts acting up again. it happened well over 5 times on the 7mgte that i had in my car before, this is the first time it has happened with the 2jzgte i have in it now. does anyone know what might be causing this? last time it happened on the 7mgte engine the flywheel bolts and the input shaft snapped.

car backround: 89 supra jdm 2jzgte from aristo, driftmotion lightweight flywheel, arp flywheel bolts, brand new pilot bearing, oem r154 pressure plate and clutch disc, oem r154 pressure plate bolts, recently rebuilt r154 transmission (not original transmission) with marlin crawler mainshaft bearing retainer.

 

[IndigoMKII]

You are not using either the lock nut pattern that goes on behind the bolts or you're not using a thread locker.

 

[hvyman]

The bolts need to be torqued properly.

Ive never had fly wheel bolts back out before.

 

[MNBmk3T]

I've heard that some MK4 guys don't use the ARP flywheel bolts on their 2Js because the OEM ones are longer, even though the OEM ones are torque to yield.

If you need them I have 8 brand new OEM Toyota 2JZ flywheel bolts that I don't need as I reused my old ones for my 1JZ. PM me if you're interested.

 

[ST1TCHE5]

i followed the TSRM for torquing the bolts, has the driftmotion lightweight flywheel on the 2j with the locking ring, and i used threadlock too. getting kinda tired of pulling the transmission every 200 miles. could it be a balance problem with the flywheel / pressure plate?

 

[hvyman]

Did you use arp or the stock bolts?

If the 2jz bolts are tty they need to be replaced.

And iirc arp says not to use loctite.

Also could be a cheap torque wrench that is under torquing the bolts.

 

[MNBmk3T]

The OEM bolts are TTY. My buddy with a MK4 told me that they should really only be used once. Though people do sometimes reuse them, but again that's super dangerous.

 

[ST1TCHE5]

the flywheel bolts are arp, dont remember which torque wrench i used.

And iirc arp says not to use loctite.

why would you not use threadlock? unless ARP managed to make their bolts ooze magic that keeps the from coming loose from vibrations i dont see how thats supposed to work

 

[hvyman]

Bolts don't just magicly come out. Almost all bolts from the factory come with no loctite on them.

But after looking looks like 2jz go through which would require some sort of sealant.

But the tsrm makes no mention of it for a flywheel but it does for a flex plate. Which is wierd.

http://www.supracentral.com/foundation/mkiv-tsrm/engine-mechanical/

Page eg 122

 

[hvyman]

So my memory was wrong and arp says to use loctite.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/203-2802.pdf

Also says 70ft lbs.

 

[Nick M]

The bolts need to be torqued properly.

Ive never had fly wheel bolts back out before.

Right here.

Or the threads are damaged. The fastener can back out if what it is being screwed into is damaged. The bolt won't stretch to its elastic point.

 

[ST1TCHE5]

hmm, thats weird. i wouldnt think you would want to use any kind of grease or oil on flywheel bolts because it can get onto the flywheel and cause irregular wear on it and the clutch disc. are the arp flywheel bolts the same for the 4age and the 2jz? i couldnt find a torque spec for them anywhere so i just guestimated.

 

[hvyman]

Ya there 4ag bolts.

You would have to use way too much grease for it to damage the clutch. I usually put a little on on the splines so the disc can slide easy.

 

[ST1TCHE5]

pulled the tranny this morning. everything looks fine although i found some threadlock inbetween the pressure plate and flywheel, around the bolts. thinking that this made it so the pressure plate didnt sit on the flywheel straight. flywheel bolts seem to be tight, ill probably take it off and torque them back on anyway though. also the input shaft has a little play, but i just put a new input shaft bearing in. are they supposed to have a little play (how much) or did i not put enough miles on it to break it in before beating on it

 

[super51fan]

The input shaft will have a little movement. The front part of input shaft is supported by the pilot bearing.

Make sure your mounting surfaces are clean. I would get new bolts OEM or ARP and make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten.

 

[ST1TCHE5]

today i took a closer look at the flywheel, it has little indents where the pressure plate meets up with it in some spots as if the pressure plate was what came loose, im guessing im gonna have to get a new flywheel. ill probably take a dial indicator after it to double check.

 

[Quin]

I would replace everything personally. Stock 1J flywheel new clutch PP pilot bearing tob and all new ARP bolts torqued to spec with loctite. I (along with another local) have had flywheel bolts back out on these cars and to be honest my feet are worth more than a clutch kit and flywheel.

That and after injuring my shoulders and breaking 10+ transmissions (not just Supras) I have zero tolerance for working on transmissions anymore lol.

2JZGTE OEM flywheels are dual mass. Thicker flywheel = longer bolts. Order ARPs, torque to ARP specs. I use red on the flywheel bolts and blue on the rest.