Help! Supra doesn't run right
- Thread starter Abe's 1987
- Start date
Wouldn't this be a better tie in to the fuel system for the fuel pressure gauge or something similar to this? Can use the stock banjo bolt with this as far as tieing in to the cold start line right?
http://www.partsklassik.com/p-1688-...vpXfOJcyHBgKy-qCy4sr7Y53CGRzDKuwaAqrgEALw_wcB
http://www.partsklassik.com/p-1688-...vpXfOJcyHBgKy-qCy4sr7Y53CGRzDKuwaAqrgEALw_wcB
I wouldn't trust that on the pressure side of the fuel system. You have the potential for 50+ psi of fuel on the high side of the system. That is why the stock fuel system is all crimped and banjos. If it lets go you have a fire hose of fuel dumping on the engine.
Notice that the factory setup only uses barbs and hose clips on the low pressure fuel return line.
Notice that the factory setup only uses barbs and hose clips on the low pressure fuel return line.
So something more like this then. It's threaded so it would be a strong connection.
www.ebay.com/i/121633778837?chn=ps&...3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1357065137529
Yes, I would think that could work. Need to check clearances near the fuel rail, but the fitting is fine.
Does the egr vsv and fpr vsv have the same functions. I feel stronge vacuum at the hose to the fpr vsv then it gets weak coming out of the vsv to the fpr. I'm not sure if the vsv got switched or not or if it even makes a difference which vsv is there.
I've tested the vsv multiple times and it is testing good as the tsrm says it should.
I've tested the vsv multiple times and it is testing good as the tsrm says it should.
They have different part numbers. I don't know what the actual differences are. For the time being, you could bypass the fpr vsv. It is only used to help with hot starts. If you think it is blocked or bad, bypass it for now and retest your fuel pressures.
I just remembered that when it was idling high the vacuum at the fpr was strong but now that the idle is normal it is much weaker.
Sounds like a plan. Will have to order a new connection for the pressure tester to test pressure again. Will let you guys know the outcome.
No they didnt. I'm going to keep trying with them and order a few different fittings meanwhile just to have in case. I might order another one from actron to install permanently to tap in when ever I need to check fuel pressure while I try to get this broken one handled. Did you leave yours in your fuel line 3p141592654 or do you install it when ever you check pressure?
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Ok so the vsv I have that is connected to the fpr vac part number is 90910-12032. The one that was connected to the egr vac is for sure jammed and not working but i don't see a part number on that one.
What is the Cco port for on the check connector? I see it written on the back of the cover but there is no wire going to that port.
I haven't been able to really crawl under the car to check out the fuel lines or state of everything else under and probably won't be able to until next week.
What is the Cco port for on the check connector? I see it written on the back of the cover but there is no wire going to that port.
I haven't been able to really crawl under the car to check out the fuel lines or state of everything else under and probably won't be able to until next week.
EGR VSV is 25860-42010
FPR VSV is 90910-12024
I leave my fitting connected. The torque spec is only 13 ft-lbs. Not very much.
FPR VSV is 90910-12024
I leave my fitting connected. The torque spec is only 13 ft-lbs. Not very much.
So what is the vsv I have for if it is not for the egr or fpr?
And wow only 13 ft-lbs? Seems a bit low.
I'm not a parts expert. But usually the last two digits of a Toyota part number are the revision number. So you probably just have a newer version of the correct part.
Got it. Actually makes since as I was even looking at different part numbers for the afm. It was off by one number.
Ok so I had gone out of town this weekend and came back to find out something has completely drained my battery. I know for sure all light were off and key was not in ignition and ignition is in the off position. When i left Friday volts were at 12.2 and I checked today Tuesday with volts reading at 1.5. Now i need to figure out what is draining my battery. What can be running without the key in the ignition?
Could be a ton of different things.
Connect an ammeter in series on the negative battery terminal so all the current is going through the meter.
Do not turn on any lights or other high current components or you may blow the 10A fuse usually in multimeters.
Trick the hood sensor that its closed.
Fully turn off the vehicle and lock / enable security system (if it has it), everything you would normally do to leave the vehicle.
Get a baseline amperage reading once the vehicle has fully shut off.
Start pulling individual fuses to see which one(s) drop the amperage significantly.
Once you find a circuit that might be the culprit you can continue diagnosing it further.
Would also suggest checking stray current discharge going into the coolant system, this is usually caused by bad grounding / on engine / vehicle ect..
Can also lead to galvanic corrosion on internal coolant system components.
TIP:
Vehicles should have a quiescent or key off load of approximately 10 - 60 milliamps.
Most vehicles are ~ 20mA
(That's 0.020A)
Anything higher and you have too much draw somewhere and should be fixed.
Connect an ammeter in series on the negative battery terminal so all the current is going through the meter.
Do not turn on any lights or other high current components or you may blow the 10A fuse usually in multimeters.
Trick the hood sensor that its closed.
Fully turn off the vehicle and lock / enable security system (if it has it), everything you would normally do to leave the vehicle.
Get a baseline amperage reading once the vehicle has fully shut off.
Start pulling individual fuses to see which one(s) drop the amperage significantly.
Once you find a circuit that might be the culprit you can continue diagnosing it further.
Would also suggest checking stray current discharge going into the coolant system, this is usually caused by bad grounding / on engine / vehicle ect..
Can also lead to galvanic corrosion on internal coolant system components.
TIP:
Vehicles should have a quiescent or key off load of approximately 10 - 60 milliamps.
Most vehicles are ~ 20mA
(That's 0.020A)
Anything higher and you have too much draw somewhere and should be fixed.