HELP 1jzgte starts and dies *video

vIetDrIfTeR

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Mar 19, 2010
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d town
http://youtu.be/hv1RCtZg358

okay there was fuel coming out the back of the line where u cant see. it coming out very slowly. sorry to confuse you guys


http://youtu.be/6LQ5vvBX25g
here the all the fuel lines connected and i disconnected the return line. i ground the green wire inside this time. as you can see there not much gas coming out the return line??

where can i get this banjo bolt at??maybe off a cressida fuel dampener?
 
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525gte

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hoquiam
vIetDrIfTeR;1818291 said:
i check that bro but it runs when i spray starting fluid so i dont think its wired wrong or anything



i check the pump bro. i even took it out and test it in water, put my finger over the output hole and i couldnt even cover it cause so much pressure coming out.
thats what i was replying too
 

IBoughtASupra

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I assume the video with the return line is with the FP and B+ terminals jumped, right?

If so, it seems like you have little to no kind of fuel pressure. You could have:

Clogged Fuel Filter
Blocked Fuel Pump Sock
Weak Pump

The fuel filter is cheap, so you should replace it. I say drop the tank and make sure everything is good back there with the sock as well.

I can't really see anything with the feed line.

If I recall correctly, the JZ line will bolt to the MKIII feed fitting and then goes to a block which is suppose to bolt to the engine brackets(assuming you have stock engine brackets).

What you should do is loosen the bottom line on that block before it goes to the dampener and check the feed pressure from there. If it is good, then you know there is a clog up after that, if it is still running slowly, then there is a problem before that point. Get a video if you can....

Also, why does it look like you are missing stuff on the intake?

Rick, maybe it is not throwing the IGF code because it's not running long enough? That could be a possibility.
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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Mar 19, 2010
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d town
IBoughtASupra;1818731 said:
I assume the video with the return line is with the FP and B+ terminals jumped, right?

If so, it seems like you have little to no kind of fuel pressure. You could have:

Clogged Fuel Filter
Blocked Fuel Pump Sock
Weak Pump

The fuel filter is cheap, so you should replace it. I say drop the tank and make sure everything is good back there with the sock as well.

I can't really see anything with the feed line.

If I recall correctly, the JZ line will bolt to the MKIII feed fitting and then goes to a block which is suppose to bolt to the engine brackets(assuming you have stock engine brackets).

What you should do is loosen the bottom line on that block before it goes to the dampener and check the feed pressure from there. If it is good, then you know there is a clog up after that, if it is still running slowly, then there is a problem before that point. Get a video if you can....

Also, why does it look like you are missing stuff on the intake?

Rick, maybe it is not throwing the IGF code because it's not running long enough? That could be a possibility.

no incorrect. the return line has the green wire grounded inside, not the +B and FP jumped. its the second video. and as you can see just drops come out the return line.??
in video one the light is pointed on the feed line from rail next to the banjo bolt. i know its kinda hard see but u can def see it.

like i said its not the pump. when i take out the feed line from the body to the dampener and jump the pins, ALOT of gas come OUT until i take out the jumper wires it stops. i just didn't make a video of it sorry. but from the tank to the front of the car the fuel flows rapidly so i know its good from there.

But from the from dampener to the rail. it flows really really slow. like in the videos i just posted. it barely even comes out. how do you even pressure test it without the valve thingy??
 

IBoughtASupra

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Well, why not bypass the dampener and see what happens.

It's not hard to do. Look at the picture, remove the dampener and get a banjo bolt to hold the top line in.

It's a bolt that is hollow with holes on the side. You might have one in your parts bin. What you could do is bend a stock 7M feed line, it can be done but takes time.
 

IBoughtASupra

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Have you checked the flow after you put the banjo bolt on? Way it bored in the middle and on the sides?

It is not the best way to test the fuel pressure to know the health of the pump. It's 15 bucks at Harbor Freight, go and pick up a fuel pressure kit. It's that simple, nothing more to it.

Well, atleast we can say its idling on it own, let it run without anything jumped and see if a code pops up. Did you have the E1 and E2 terminals jumped, the check engine light was blinking.

Really, get a pressure kit.
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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d town
dude i ask like a 10 times how do you test the fuel pressure??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????there no valve to test it!
yes it did had holes on both sides. and yes the flow is 20 times faster. i got me another dampener too

here how my fuel dampener looks
p1819195_1.jpg

okay so the car doesnt want run anymore even if i spray the starting fluid ???? wtf is wrong with this shit
definitely never buying another 1j

there is no E2 on the diagnosis plug !?
 
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IBoughtASupra

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Where are you located? "D Town" is not a good description.

Ok, so the flow is much better now, correct? Have you tried checking codes now that it was running?

Sorry, there was typo, it is E1/TE1 that have to be jumped.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

Have you opened the ECU to see if it has bad caps?

You can test the fuel pressure easily. Buy a kit and use a little ingenuity.
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html

I am actually spoon feeding you here, seriously. I am going to assume you don't have a weak fuel pump as it is running without shutting off like before. Have you tried to re-install the dampener and seeing what happens?
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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Mar 19, 2010
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d town
my ECU is good i test it on another 1jz supra. dude are you watching the video and reading my post???? cant u see the check engine light rapidly blinking in the video. and it still shows no codes after it ran and now it doesnt even want to start no more!?!?

yes the flow way better. i put on the new dampener and flows like the banjo bolt i put in. so i left the new dampener on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EntY5BvoG8o&feature=youtu.be


and i do have 12v everywhere like my ecu, igniter, spark plugs, injectors, fuel pump.5v at map.
 
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IBoughtASupra

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I feel like a caveman trying to come up with ways to have you test things when you didn't want to buy a pressure tester and use a little ingenuity. Tone it down a little bud.

It doesn't want to start now. There is a reason it was hunting and I am not sure why you had terminals jumped when it was running.

Once again, spray starting fluid and see if it still DOES NOT start so we can at least rule out a fuel problem. If it doesn't start, check the list below. If it does start, it's still a fuel issue.

Pulse?
Spark?
Map sensor?

If it doesn't start with starting fluid, that can means you don't have spark/map signal. If it starts with starting fluid, it means you are not getting fuel to the cylinders which is caused by injectors not pulsing, so that why pulse is listed above. A Map sensor is the way for the JZ engines to detect load, I have seen it get unplugged and caused issues you are having.

Report back....I am assuming fuel pressure is good for reasons stated above.

EDIT: Got a chance to watch the video. Wants to start, sounds like it could be spark/fuel. Pull a plug and see if it's wet/if you smell gas after cranking.
 
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vIetDrIfTeR

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d town
sorry bro. im not a pro at this. i just know the basic and this my 1st engine swap. so i will sound stupid. im doing all the tests i can do with what i go. im just so piss at this shiet. i just lost my job. missed abunch of drift events this season and im tired sitting on the passenger side. all because this poopra
t
okay i sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body. and nothing happen. crank it, n it doesnt even want to try start no more.

but i know my fuel pressure is good now, i mean i can actually hear/see flow through the rail/regulator and the return line.

i do not have a noid light, nor a fuel pressure but i believe we can rule that out now. i will try get a noid light this weekend.

when i check for spark, I only notice it arc from the coil to the valve cover, not the spark plug itself. Unless my chinese eyes just cant see the spark there

map sensor is connected too, its just not mounted

yes fuel should be good now.

it wanted to start. but now it doesnt even do that no more. just cranks. i pulled a spark plug and it was wet. yes it smell like gas after cranking..i did disconnect the fuel pump to see if it was flooding and crank it for a bit but still no start up.
 
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525gte

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Sep 19, 2011
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hoquiam
vIetDrIfTeR;1819195 said:
dude i ask like a 10 times how do you test the fuel pressure??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????there no valve to test it!
yes it did had holes on both sides. and yes the flow is 20 times faster. i got me another dampener too

here how my fuel dampener looks
p1819762_1.jpg

okay so the car doesnt want run anymore even if i spray the starting fluid ???? wtf is wrong with this shit
definitely never buying another 1j

there is no E2 on the diagnosis plug !?
...lololo you say that now. but once you feel the power curve you ll be happy with it.
and puttin in the motor is the easy part. making it run right.. now that is where the real swap starts..\

put new plugs in it i bet it starts, but will prob still have issues, but will prob start.
 

IBoughtASupra

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Did you pull all the plugs and then cranked it to get all the fuel out the cylinders? Make sure to pull the EFI fuse when you are doing this...

Like 505 said, are your plugs fouled? Get another set if they are. If you can't afford it, try to clean them at least. Don't use any abrasive material, just some brake cleaner and a cloth should help.
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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Mar 19, 2010
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d town
yeah i pull the plugs and crank it let the fuel out, clean the plugs.
put in back the plugs
crank it, and it started but it was hunting, alot of smoke kept coming out. let it ran for 2 mins, still hunting. sounds like it wants to die so i shut it off. checked for codes, and nothing came up.

try starting it again and it took a while of cranking n throttling to get it running again. and once it did, it was stilling hunting.
And still no throttle reponse.
here a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ata-lCuFWmU&feature=youtu.be

question do i need my blow off valve and intercooler to run right? cause there not none connected. and where does the blow off valve connect to from the engine? and i do have on a block off plate for a aftermarker BOV
 
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525gte

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hoquiam
you know .when i 1st built mine i had issues just like your having now. and what happend to me was the exhaust cam retarded due to a adjustable cam gear slipping . and it sounded and acted just like yours is now.. did you bye chance take the motor apart at all? or swap cams? possibly have timing out some how?i know i see that it was tdc in another video? but just more ideas. also when you ckd for spark off coils did you ck all 6? or just off of one would also calibrate tps i would eliminate all the free things you can do yourself. these motors do not like it when tps is out of adjustment
 

IBoughtASupra

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Can you post up close shots from different angles of your engine bay/engine?

Seems like stuff needs to be corrected.

TPS could cause the issues you are having but I'd vote map sensor over TPS as I have unplugged the TPS on 1JZ and 2JZ and it doesn't do this.

Calibrate it, doesn't hurt.