HELP 1jzgte starts and dies *video

IBoughtASupra

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Mar 10, 2009
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Hmm.

We have to start checking all sensors now.

First pop open ECU, check the caps.

Test for continuity of wires back to the ECU for all of these sensors. Listed in order of priority.

MAP
IAT
Cam/Crank Sensor
TPS

Is your check engine light working?

When you say, it is not giving codes, does the light blink rapidly, if so, there are no codes stored. If it does not blink at all when the terminals, E1 and E2 are jumped, you are not in check mode and that means you could have a bad ECU or most Wiring problem.

Here is the wiring diagram.

a6898a16-2a92-3dc4.jpg


Report back.
 

te72

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Timing, CPS, TPS, and ISCV. Make sure those things are all in spec, should fix your problem. Other than the music. :p
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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yes my check engine light works, it blinks rapidly. it use to blink code 31 air flow meter. but swap out a new map sensor and it went away. my timing is on. i check like 20 times. how do i check on the IAT and ISCV? haha and that music was my party rocker music when my car runs.
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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okay on that diagram i got 12v on plug T on 1 and 2 and 12 and 13. but on plug X i get 12v on pin 14 but on the FP the fuel pump relay i dont get 12v til i start the car??? is this right
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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so what is causing this problem bro? no one can seem to help me. i mean my wiring has to be right or it be throwing codes right?????
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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nope all stock.the O2 sensor isnt on tho. barely got the swap done and this is whats happening. i check my ignitor. map ecu on another supra 1jz it worked great. how do i check my cam sensors if there good. but when i disconnect them the same thing happen. try disconnectin the tps too and nothing there either.
 

mkiiichip

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vIetDrIfTeR;1816578 said:
i mean my wiring has to be right or it be throwing codes right?????

Wrong.


I bet the fuel pump shuts off after the key moves from start to run. Can you verify?
 

IBoughtASupra

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vIetDrIfTeR;1816669 said:
nope all stock.the O2 sensor isnt on tho. barely got the swap done and this is whats happening. i check my ignitor. map ecu on another supra 1jz it worked great. how do i check my cam sensors if there good. but when i disconnect them the same thing happen. try disconnectin the tps too and nothing there either.

Ok.

You will need a scope to test the cam sensors, if you don't have one, check their resistance according to the TSRM which can be found in the JZ link in my signature.

Get some starting fluid, spray it in the intake. Start and see what happens. If it idles longer than what it does now, there is a fuel issue.

You said you are using the FC pin, that's the wrong pin for the fuel pump relay, it's pin 16.
 

mkiiichip

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IBoughtASupra;1816707 said:
You will need a scope to test the cam sensors, if you don't have one, check their resistance according to the TSRM which can be found in the JZ link in my signature.

So your suggesting for the third time that the cam sensors may be bad. How do you explain the engine starting then dying every time?
Stop being a fool. And if your going to elaborate on my posts, quit making it sound like an original idea.
Last, I asked a very specific question and you are complicating things by adding variables. Could we just wait until the important questions are answered?

I am getting sick of attempting to save tech treads from your BS. Your always trying to sell your products and link your threads. I am sick of it. I dont think I am alone.

Please dont respond, it is obvious you have no clue, I am not interested in a conversation here.
 

IBoughtASupra

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mkiiichip;1816745 said:
So your suggesting for the third time that the cam sensors may be bad. How do you explain the engine starting then dying every time?
Stop being a fool. And if your going to elaborate on my posts, quit making it sound like an original idea.
Last, I asked a very specific question and you are complicating things by adding variables. Could we just wait until the important questions are answered?

I am getting sick of attempting to save tech treads from your BS. Your always trying to sell your products and link your threads. I am sick of it. I dont think I am alone.

Please dont respond, it is obvious you have no clue, I am not interested in a conversation here.

They are on the list of things to check, not the first. He asked how to test so I answered. Sorry, I like to rule out anything. OneJAprus has a sputtering issue which was caused by his rear cam sensor. Doesn't hurt to check at all.

Not trying to steal credit, why on earth would I do that. Not that kind of person. I give credit where it's due all the time, once again, prime example, JZ thread. The JZ thread is there not as a decoration but useful info, why would I retype instead of linking?

You save nothing, instead, you're still angry about my comment in your thread, which I left and have not returned. Grow up.

PM links so we dont clutter this thread where I am trying to sell products other than my vendor thread.

PM me the links, I foresee no PM from you as there aren't any fitting what you say I do.
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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My first impression on this thread is a fuel issue. A lot of people wire it up wrong to the point where it's only getting cranking power, not ON power. You need to verify your fuel pump power is connected to the ON signal from your ignition. Not the START signal.


mkiiichip;1816704 said:
I bet the fuel pump shuts off after the key moves from start to run. Can you verify?

I do as well.


IBoughtASupra;1816707 said:
Get some starting fluid, spray it in the intake. Start and see what happens. If it idles longer than what it does now, there is a fuel issue.

I agree.



@Chip: I feel that Andy is linking the 2JZ thread a lot because it's a compilation of knowledge. That's why it exists. He's not selling anything from linking that thread. Personally I think it's a great idea. As for plugging his products all the time.. I wouldn't know anything about that :aigo:
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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Mar 19, 2010
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IBoughtASupra;1816707 said:
Ok.

You will need a scope to test the cam sensors, if you don't have one, check their resistance according to the TSRM which can be found in the JZ link in my signature.

Get some starting fluid, spray it in the intake. Start and see what happens. If it idles longer than what it does now, there is a fuel issue.

You said you are using the FC pin, that's the wrong pin for the fuel pump relay, it's pin 16.

okay just sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body. im doing this by myself so yeah im spraying it and then starting it. it took awhile cranking it before it started but it ran alot longer than it did before.
no not the fc. the FP 16 gets 12v only when i crank the engine and when it dies 2 seconds later no volts at all?
 

vIetDrIfTeR

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Mar 19, 2010
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ifyouaint1sturlast;1816773 said:
My first impression on this thread is a fuel issue. A lot of people wire it up wrong to the point where it's only getting cranking power, not ON power. You need to verify your fuel pump power is connected to the ON signal from your ignition. Not the START signal.




I do as well.




I agree.



@Chip: I feel that Andy is linking the 2JZ thread a lot because it's a compilation of knowledge. That's why it exists. He's not selling anything from linking that thread. Personally I think it's a great idea. As for plugging his products all the time.. I wouldn't know anything about that :aigo:

okay so yeah that is my problem here bro. im only getting 12v on the FP pin 16 only when i crank the engine.?? what should i do for this step to make sure its always 12v??thanks


hey guys we all here for help. cant we all get along lol. but i love you guys though. thanks for the help very much
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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You want to connect your fuel pump power wire to the big black/orange wire coming from plug B1.

Most people just do the "12v mod" which is essentially powering on a relay using the stock fuel pump wiring, and the relay will feed direct battery current to your fuel pump.

Good luck!