fuck man......i got a coolant leak in the worst possible place possible!

[chefma70]

the main coolant hardlines that run around the whole block. the one what runs directly under the turbo manifold wraps around the back of the block by the fire wall and ends under the intake manifold. its about a dime thick.

there are two ways to fix it first is take the head off. :3d_frown:
2nd is raise the motor 3-4 inches and slide it on.:3d_frown:

anyone else ever have this problem ?

how did you fix it?

 

[92nsx]

BTW what is the -1 all about?!?!?!?!?!?

 

[gtsfirefighter]

I'd be all about the JB Weld too. You wouldn't have to remove the head but you'll have to remove just about everything off of it. So how's the headgasket? Might be a good time to replace it if you decided to replace the coolant pipe.

 

[gaboonviper85]

BTW what is the -1 all about?!?!?!?!?!?

Hit me up in pm and I'll tell you:: angry ::

 

[Satan]

Are you sure it's that hardline and not the hose at the back of the head? I'd never seen that hardline break/leak, but it's possible.

Instead of all that other work, if you know the exact spot and can see the hole, it may be easier to wrap a piece of heater hose over it and clamp it.

 

[tissimo]

If it is the hardline, I'd look into why it failed. Metal just doesn't develope a hole for no reason.

 

[mkIIIman089]

If it is the hardline, I'd look into why it failed. Metal just doesn't develope a hole for no reason.

Even really rusted out systems don't typically rot out those metal coolant lines.. on any Toyota. So this is a good point.

 

[Drake69]

Wow. Makes me wanna go back under the hood and look at all my hardlines now... :aigo:

 

[Justin727]

Even really rusted out systems don't typically rot out those metal coolant lines.. on any Toyota. So this is a good point.

The flange to the water pump housing on that hard pipe did rust and leaked at that flange atleast for me

What I did was I sawed it off and about an inch of pipe sawed of with it. Had it brazed together. Then used some marine hose with the metal wire wrapped thru the rubber itself. Installed the house coupler and the repaired piece and it held up well till I pulled the motor for the build. Bought a new one and repalced it.

 

[noel]

andrew ANDREW!! THE REASON WHY is because it was rusted big time i hate to say this but i told u so!! lol [dont use that old rusted crap] ill come over and help u take the head off.

u still have the N/A Hardpipe right? if so lets use that one. and while we are there lets check the hoses im pretty sure they were nice and tight.

 

[Failure14]

My same hose popped off a few days ago and i just stuck my hold hand
behind there from the turbo side and had a friend grab the hose and feed it to my
hand and it took no more than 5mins tops.

Thats IF the host just popped off...

And i agree with everyone else i dont really see the hardpipe
just rusting away like that...

 

[Satan]

There's a similar pipe for the 2J and I had even thought about replacing it with a steel braided hose. When I put the single on my 2J, I had to plug a couple of the ports with the heater-hose-rubber-caps and I know they will eventually leak.

So, I thought about finding a better way to reduce that risk. I've been told to just stay with that piep, but knowing the work ya'll will be doing to replace it, makes me wonder wha options I would pursue first.

Just an idea, but if you could use the bends from the hardline, it'd be easy enough to clamp on some hose to make that bend behind the head. It is a 7M anyways (cogh, cough), so save that extra time and put towards your eventual 2J swap ;-)

Anyways, just thinking of options for ya.

Good luck!