IJ.;1832750 said:You're doing it wrong then mine used to cruise @ 150
Haha yeah,it wasn't built for that. Building it different this time lol. Got the build specs on that motor? :icon_wink
First signs and ways to tell if you have rod knock??
- Thread starter Turbo Habanero
- Start date
Haha yeah,it wasn't built for that. Building it different this time lol. Got the build specs on that motor? :icon_wink
Skeezix;1832761 said:
Brand new GTE block
7M Niterided Lightened Crank
+40 thou Triple coated JE Forged Pistons
Pauter Rods
ARP Main studs
New GTE pump
GrpA Magnesium Pan
Canton Remote Filter adaptor
Canton Remote Filter mount
HKS Stopper 2 mm MHG
NDC Rod Bearings
NDC Main Bearings
B&M Oil cooler
B&M T Stat
Moroso 3Qt ACCUSUMP
ATI Super Damper
Aluminium engine pullies
Wade Cams .351"/9mm lift
280 degrees duration 226 @ 50thou
+1mm Ferrea Valves
Ferrea Valve Springs
Ferrea Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
Ferrea Valve Seat Locators
Shimless buckets
Brand new ported head
2 x Aeromotive Tsunami pumps
Aeromotive AFPR
2 x Bosch MS filters
2 x -6 fuel lines
1000cc RC p&h Injectors
115 litre "IJ" tank
"IJ" Multipoint methanol injection
AEM cam gears
Gates Timing Belt
ARP head studs
T04z 800hp roller turbo
Tial v44 WG
3.0" Aluminium Hardpipes
Turbosmart 32mm Bov's x 2
600x300x100 air to air IC
PWR Radiator
DC Electric water pump
321 Stainless Ceramic coated Header
New design "IJ" FFI intake manifold
"IJ" DBW 68mm TB
3.5" Mandrel bend Dump pipe
3.5" Metal Cat
2 x 2.5" Mandrel bend Stainless pipes
2 x 2.5" Stainless Mufflers
1 x "IJ" Muffler
Bosch coils x6
2x M&W 3 channel ignitors
MoTeC ECU
MoTeC DBW4
MoTeC 2 axis G sensor
MoTeC EGT
MoTeC wb02
NGK PowerDex wb02
55watt 5000k HID lights
Built a340e
PCS Trans controller
2800 rpm Hi-stall TC
B&M Fan cooler
DCraig cooler
Full electronic valve body
Strange Nodular Iron 9" case
3.5:1 Motive Gears
3.5 Trutrac 9" Diff
Custom "IJ" 9" housing
Custom Axles
GroupA V8 CV joints
Custom Stub axles
Diff cooler and pump
Full Strange Engineering Driveshaft
Mk4 TT DBA Rotors F&R
AP Racing 4 piston callipers
SS Goodridge lines
Koni Yellow Coilovers
Eibach Springs
Whiteline Swaybars
Full Poly Urethane bushes
SS Lower Control arms
18" x 9" HR109 rims f&r
265/35/18 452 Falken tires front
285/35/18 452 Falken tires rear
I always look at your part list Ian and in moments i'm left with my Jaw wide open. Would you happen to have a finished photo of the 7M
Just got my spare block and head out of storage today.
Going to start taking it apart soon and ordering rods/pistons and bearings in about 2 weeks it will be my first engine build pretty excited but honestly have no idea on deciding what i need and witch route to go with most things.
I don't have a set goal in mind but i do know for now i want something that will handle 550-600whp
I'm not going to cheap out on stuff and the build can take 2years if that's how long it takes to come up with the funds.
A few questions i have is how to know what size pistons and bearings to go with ?
What how to come up with specs for porting the head and what size valves to go with.
Just got my spare block and head out of storage today.
Going to start taking it apart soon and ordering rods/pistons and bearings in about 2 weeks it will be my first engine build pretty excited but honestly have no idea on deciding what i need and witch route to go with most things.
I don't have a set goal in mind but i do know for now i want something that will handle 550-600whp
I'm not going to cheap out on stuff and the build can take 2years if that's how long it takes to come up with the funds.
A few questions i have is how to know what size pistons and bearings to go with ?
What how to come up with specs for porting the head and what size valves to go with.
Gorgeous
Quick side note question on CODE 52 will the code through if you have rod knock or is it just for a short circuit ? i've just been reading a bunch of post and i'm not 100 % sure on how this code works.
Quick side note question on CODE 52 will the code through if you have rod knock or is it just for a short circuit ? i've just been reading a bunch of post and i'm not 100 % sure on how this code works.
Damn, gonna have to log that away and save up lol. I have another block and head that I want to do up over the years. Right now I'm just thinking of fortifying what I have now with some forged rods, better cooler, eliminate stock filter head, metal head gasket. Just to where I can reliably run around 300 hp until the other motor is ready for 700....:sarcasm:
300 is a very possible and easy to make.
I drove my car tonight about 30min ago for the first time in 2days and it ran perfect no wired noises while driving still running pretty rich and at 17psi it felt so strong and fast definitely worth the heart ache this car causes
I drove my car tonight about 30min ago for the first time in 2days and it ran perfect no wired noises while driving still running pretty rich and at 17psi it felt so strong and fast definitely worth the heart ache this car causes
Turbo Habanero;1832819 said:300 is a very possible and easy to make.
I drove my car tonight about 30min ago for the first time in 2days and it ran perfect no wired noises while driving still running pretty rich and at 17psi it felt so strong and fast definitely worth the heart ache this car causes
:nono: You're going to push this till it explodes....
IJ.;1832825 said:
That's kind of the plan
it will get me working on the other motor faster.It was at 10.9 4-5k and 10.5 by redline. But it honestly still sounds great I have the timing at 8degrees
IJ.;1832831 said:
Your right but i don't think i want to sell it. If i don't send a rod through the block i might build it on the side after i finish my first... Just in case.
Although if the knocking shows up while in load or even gets to the point where i know it's rod knock in every shape and form no question about it then ill just pull it and tear it down.
I still want to buy a Maft Pro setup sense they have been going dirt cheap around here and give that a shot maybe put it on a dyno with a mild street tune just to see what kind of power i made before i move on from the CT26
Really? Where? I'd love to pick up one of these to get rid of the AFM.Turbo Habanero;1832835 said:
Dan in the for sale section.
I've seen 2 going for $450 usd and one going for $300usd in the past month.
All had everything to run speed density
I've seen 2 going for $450 usd and one going for $300usd in the past month.
All had everything to run speed density
my car also made the noise your describing. Do me a favor go inside the car and push the clutch in and see if it goes away.
FWIW my engine made the same noise as that (from what I can tell in the video). During the tear down this winter all of my rod and main bearings looked good (not perfect but definitely not knocking). My noise seemed to be coming from the rear/bottom of the engine. Flywheel bolts were tight too. So I'm stumped on what my noise was.
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
For Pete's sake do not go out and ruin your engine on purpose with the mentality of "Oh it will motivate me to build my other one quicker". It's just plain retarded. Dont' be that guy! :biglaugh:
I looked at a supra a while back with intermittent knocking sounds. The turbo was about to go to pieces. There was so much shaft play it was bouncing all over the place at idle then would shut up while driving it. It still boosted too. Just a thought. You might check yours.
I looked at a supra a while back with intermittent knocking sounds. The turbo was about to go to pieces. There was so much shaft play it was bouncing all over the place at idle then would shut up while driving it. It still boosted too. Just a thought. You might check yours.
I have had the same type of knock for years, never did figure it out and i've pulled the engine several times and torn it down to the block (for other reasons, blown front plate seal...terrible to do)