i have a 87 turbo im bout to rebuild n i wanna clean up my engine bay a lil so im looking for a ffim. i keep hearing about ron but dnt know how to contact him so any info would be nice. of if u have a ffim u dnt need hit me up.
ffim info
- Thread starter Sassan
- Start date
they sell ffim on ebay for around 800
nsn garage in pennsylvania builds 7m ffim for like $300-400
nsn garage in pennsylvania builds 7m ffim for like $300-400
I've heard nothing but fitment issues with ebay.
*if* i remember correctly, they're more or less manufactured for right hand drive cars.
That being said, I think it has interference with the brake booster. Sure you can cut and modify it to fit, but better off spending a little more and getting a good one.
I heard sethron makes fantastic ones (i don't know if he still makes them) He's a misc. vendor here on our forum.
If, no when, I buy one, i want it from him.
quality looks amazing
*if* i remember correctly, they're more or less manufactured for right hand drive cars.
That being said, I think it has interference with the brake booster. Sure you can cut and modify it to fit, but better off spending a little more and getting a good one.
I heard sethron makes fantastic ones (i don't know if he still makes them) He's a misc. vendor here on our forum.
If, no when, I buy one, i want it from him.
quality looks amazing
RiyadYar;1871708 said:
Ill post some up soon as I can. Guy local to me bought one. Shipping time was horrible and the overall quality is very poor. He isn't even going to use it because of it. Its now sitting at my customers speed shop for $300....
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This is what was sent from NSN. My friend waited 4 months for this.... the welds are of questionable quality, and the finish is, well see for yourself...
Hotwheelsjr;1871799 said:
I'm sure its functional, but with the welds (ESP. @ the throttle plate being ground to nothing) I'm not sure how much boost it would handle before it starts failing.
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Sorry did not know welds are poor.
But for $300 you get what you paid for.
I mean Ron r manifolds where being sold for like $1000 I think. I had 1 a few weeks ago. Welds where very nice and blending inside runners was very nice
But good luck finding 1
But for $300 you get what you paid for.
I mean Ron r manifolds where being sold for like $1000 I think. I had 1 a few weeks ago. Welds where very nice and blending inside runners was very nice
But good luck finding 1
I have a friend that owns a small machine shop and he did a ffim for me a couple of years ago. I considered having him make me a batch of flanges so I could weld them onto some cast runners, but the cost would be in the 6-700 dollar range and lets be honest, thats about 500 more than most MK3 owners on here would spend so I dropped the idea. It's just not worth the investment to make a high dollar part for the 7M.
After seeing this Mani in person, I can offer some suggestions on improving future desigs...
TIG weld the Mani, DC MIG is not as strong of a weld for this application. AC TIG is required in order to properly break down and penetrate not only the aluminum but the various alloys and oxide layer too. Another good tip for welding tube is to run a second hose from your argon regulator to back fill the tube as your welding it. Lessens the chance of porosity.
Cut the flange off where it is welded to the D tubing. This will eliminate any chance of leaks where the weld is not fully penetrated - take note to the bolt holes where the weld actually washed into them without fusing to anything. If cutting the flange causes fitment issues, use a piece of flat stock aluminum to weld to the runners first. Then weld the flat stock to the D tube. This will also allow you to smooth the air entries into to runners.
If you must grind the welds at the throttle body plate, bevel the D tube to a point then weld. This will allow for a better penetration weld and eliminate the chance of cracking later on down the road.
Finish the inlets to the runners. A die grinder with a flap roll or a sand paper roll go a long way. It may not seem like much, but that extra 5 minutes spent will be well worth it from a quality stand point.
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TIG weld the Mani, DC MIG is not as strong of a weld for this application. AC TIG is required in order to properly break down and penetrate not only the aluminum but the various alloys and oxide layer too. Another good tip for welding tube is to run a second hose from your argon regulator to back fill the tube as your welding it. Lessens the chance of porosity.
Cut the flange off where it is welded to the D tubing. This will eliminate any chance of leaks where the weld is not fully penetrated - take note to the bolt holes where the weld actually washed into them without fusing to anything. If cutting the flange causes fitment issues, use a piece of flat stock aluminum to weld to the runners first. Then weld the flat stock to the D tube. This will also allow you to smooth the air entries into to runners.
If you must grind the welds at the throttle body plate, bevel the D tube to a point then weld. This will allow for a better penetration weld and eliminate the chance of cracking later on down the road.
Finish the inlets to the runners. A die grinder with a flap roll or a sand paper roll go a long way. It may not seem like much, but that extra 5 minutes spent will be well worth it from a quality stand point.
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Mr Bojangles;1871863 said:
Yes and no. There are many members that will spend the money on quality parts. But creating a part that is proven to give an increase is the hard/expensive part.
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Yeah I would agree with that. I know people pay out the hole for C's shifters.
But it would take a lot of upfront investment. People would want proven results and flow bench numbers and comparison tests, and that's not something some small guy with a welder is going to be able to provide. Sorry, this has gone way off topic.
But it would take a lot of upfront investment. People would want proven results and flow bench numbers and comparison tests, and that's not something some small guy with a welder is going to be able to provide. Sorry, this has gone way off topic.
Mr Bojangles;1871872 said:
I disagree
Now there's info on the nsn manifolds that I suggested
He can either go cheap or like others stated pay big bucks for a flow tested ffim
Either way you get what you pay for
I once had a ebay ffim as well
The intake runners IMHO where horrible and I doubt it would have flow tested very good. But you do buy a piece of shiney metal for the engine bay
Iirc there's been problems with some ffim that have been built that are known for making cylinder 1 or 6 lean...I don't remember what manifold it was though
Either way you look at it. You'll either want big power and need a high dollar good ffim or maybe you just want the look of a ffim and don't care for big power
For me though. I'll keep my a/c
Sorry for posting my random "suggestions" towards NSN. I thought jonahs_supra was part of NSN. Just realized my error.
But if those suggestions were to get to NSN, well, it wouldn't hurt
But if those suggestions were to get to NSN, well, it wouldn't hurt
Perhaps his goal was to add some truth to the first F&F film...blow the welds on the intake manifold!
jonahs_supra;1871895 said:I disagree
Now there's info on the nsn manifolds that I suggested
He can either go cheap or like others stated pay big bucks for a flow tested ffim
Either way you get what you pay for
I once had a ebay ffim as well
The intake runners IMHO where horrible and I doubt it would have flow tested very good. But you do buy a piece of shiney metal for the engine bay
Iirc there's been problems with some ffim that have been built that are known for making cylinder 1 or 6 lean...I don't remember what manifold it was though
Either way you look at it. You'll either want big power and need a high dollar good ffim or maybe you just want the look of a ffim and don't care for big power
For me though. I'll keep my a/c
There are brackets out there that let you retain the a/c even when dropping the alternator.
