Engine brake in on new standalone

[Zrain25]

How do you guys go about breaking in a new motor with a new standalone

Do I go to my tuner tell him what I'm running and have home give me a base map and go from There

 

[mirage83]

I would think the break-in for a new engine would be the same regardless of the control system you have in place.

 

[RacerXJ220]

Best to have a good working base tune. Your tuner or online support should be able to help.

 

[Raggan]

Your tuner will tune the car with a good base tune then you drive it for the break in period and then he does the final tune. You have to tell him its a fresh engine

 

[mirage83]

Ah, now I understand the question better. Oops.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

I thought the first 30 minutes of engine run time was the most critical for a new engine break in. Running non detergent 30sae oil varying rpm and all.
If that's the case I wouldn't want to break in an engine while someone is trying to get a good tune on it. Why not break it in with the stock ecu, maf meter and stock injectors first? Change your oil, install the standalone, and have your tuner work his/her magic.

 

[Nick M]

I thought the first 30 minutes of engine run time was the most critical for a new engine break in. Running non detergent 30sae oil varying rpm and all.

More like first 5 minutes. And multi-grade oil is still used. 30 grade-which does not flow cold,is a good way to ruin a new engine. Or more correctly, shorten the bearing life.

 

[Zrain25]

That's my other option witch I think I'm gunna do

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

This should help. Or confuse you as to which oil to use for break in. I guess just choose on and cross your fingers. I would break it in on stock stuff first. Good luck.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/10/break-in-oils-and-assembly-lube-needs/

 

[JDMMA70]

I followed a recommendation from IJ. Straight weight 30 oil, started the engine, checked for leaks real quick, and started driving it, varying the RPMs. I changed the oil out after 50 miles, and continued to use straight weight 30 oil until about 500 miles. Thats when I switched to 10W-30 and ran that until around 1700 miles when I switched it out for synthetic.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

That sounds good. I'll do that on my next break in.

 

[Zrain25]

Ok so hers where I'm at now got used aem v2 for 800 bucks the other day with the correct gray plug connector. I'm putting 440cc original injectors in to break it in. Now my question is I'm gunna be running a ffim but the aem with a stock 7m tune should get it started or is there anything that I should change In the tune before trying to fire it up...

And also should o break in the motor with the ct26 bolted on or can I bolt my sp6262 on and turn the boost to around 4psi my only concern is getting contaminated oil in a brand new 1700 dollar turbo and destroying my bearings

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

I would imagine that the "7m tune" on that AEM is just a baseline type of tune that will get you started on tuning. Most base tunes run rich to keep things safe as you lean it out to optimum AFR's. I couldn't comment on breaking in an engine running fat. Maybe some guys here will chime in on that.

I would run the CT26 during break in period just in case. I good that you have that option to do so.

 

[Zrain25]

I have no problem breaking the motor in with the stock ecu but I imagine it's gunna be a pain trying to keep the car running with a ffim.

 

[Zrain25]

The only issue I can think of with stock ecu and ffim is routing the bov recirculating line back to the afm

 

[Zrain25]

I'm just gunna run 2 bov one on the hot side close to the intake to recirculate and one in front of the tb drive it all summer brake it in good and well and winter time put on the 6262 the 750cc injectors 264 cams and put the aem ems in and tow it to get tuned

 

[hvyman]

Just break the engine in on the dyno and tune it at the same time.