Well, mission accomplished. I can see why a tech would want to charge so much to change the gasket on the egr coller plate. It sucks real bad, thank goodness for the natural finger wrench. Whoever had this car before me went total redneck on it. No gasket left, put on silicone in certain gaps, and all the bolts were only finger tight. Found a few bad hoses, many bolts he must have lost, and a few vaccuum lines that are to short. It must have been a communist that owned it first. For the guys who helped me on removing the plate thanks for the advice given, it helped.
EGR cooler plate
- Thread starter RedDogOIF
- Start date
Heh... the shop manual says you have to pull the head to change that. It's possible to do it in the car - although I had to buy a special set of tools to do it.
i did it the easy way i pulled my tranny
seound time i did it with the tranny in but it's bad for the motor montes to certon point 89 i would not try loosen sub frame loosen einge montes tilt motor work blind aka feel
seound time i did it with the tranny in but it's bad for the motor montes to certon point 89 i would not try loosen sub frame loosen einge montes tilt motor work blind aka feel
It can be done without fussing with the motor mounts or the subframe, too... I just pulled off the throttle linkage to give me some room to work from the top.
And I used a set of these: http://www.sears.ca/gp/product/B000...-7455200?ie=UTF8&searsBrand=core&mqnodeid=APS
And I used a set of these: http://www.sears.ca/gp/product/B000...-7455200?ie=UTF8&searsBrand=core&mqnodeid=APS
RedDog you did the job, but is the sound gone? My egr plates leaking again, and when i did HG job i threw new gaskets in, it worked then got worse i again. Im 90% sure its egr cooler but need to be 100 before i start working on it again. Let me know,
The gasket back there is easy to check. Let your car cool down completely... then fire it up and squeeze your hand back there before the EGR gets hot, which does take a minute.
If it's leaking, you will be able to feel the exhaust pulsing out around the cooler plate.
If it's leaking, you will be able to feel the exhaust pulsing out around the cooler plate.
It's not that hard to change with the right tools, the valve covers and throttle linkage off, and something like a small mattress or sleeping bag on the engine so you can lie on it. Still not fun but more comfortable than bending over. Be aware a leak there will shift the fuel compensation loop. It's how I found mine was leaking ie; I noticed the offset in the O2 sensor.
Cedrock15 said:
The noise is gone and the exhaust leak from the compartment is gone 100 percent. I grinded down a 10mm socket and used a very thin small ratchet for the job. Take off the valve covers and coolant hoses in the back, it's also a good idea to change the valve cover gaskets if they are old since it's off. It's a real pain to get back there, so if you can find a way to lay across it's less strain on the back. Be sure to cover your cams to eliminate any possibility of stuff getting in there. 6 1/2 hours for my work, but I'm new.
Heres a link to a tool called the W.F.M.C. Mini-Ratchet Tool Set that has saved my rear many times in the work place and working on cars, talk about a slim ratchet this thing is awesome and can take a decent amount of torque, it comes with an bit that adapts to 1/4 sockets. Ive had mine around 15 years and stil works like new. The link isnt the only site you can buy them on either, even enco, msc and the other tool comapnies sell them.
http://www.newmantools.com/wfmc.htm
http://www.newmantools.com/wfmc.htm
RedDogOIF said:
Nice sounds very good, right now im debating going outsaide right now. Its 30 degr. and 20 windchill and the winds not stopping. It usually takes me about 2 hrs to get everything you listed off and back on b/ ive done it so many times trying to solve this problem. Picked this up yesterday
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34137 and hope it works if not going to have to get the best tool i heard http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00901368000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes the size 10 you need is sold by itself for $17.99 IIRC but i cant find it on their site
Cedrock15 said:
Nice brisk day to do the deed, sounds like fun. My bolts were so loose in the back that I took them off by hand, I mean fingers. The person before me tried to squeeze FIPK into the top of the plate to fix it, but that obviously didn't work. Good luck, hope it goes well for you.
I will be doing mine this weekend along with a few other things and my ic and hard pipe install. I think I'll pull the hood off so I can get in a little closer. I'll let ya know how it goes.
Yeah that's a tricky one.
Since it's being recirculated, and not sent out the manifold to the turbo... it's not really a typical boost leak. (Read: lost exhaust air to the turbine.)
But it is coming back to the cylinder.... so, I'll say it is a boost leak.
Since it's being recirculated, and not sent out the manifold to the turbo... it's not really a typical boost leak. (Read: lost exhaust air to the turbine.)
But it is coming back to the cylinder.... so, I'll say it is a boost leak.