Dyno Tuned my car today...

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kmfdmk

Old School Cool
Nov 5, 2007
112
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Marietta, OH / Vancouver, WA
www.kmfdmk.com
Dyno tuned my car with the assistance of James as my driver (and some of his knowledge of screwing around with boost settings).

406hp & 392 torque!!! I'm still going VERY rich from 3200 to around 5000 need to lean it out some more. That's for next week :D

Click the images for hi-res versions. Tuned it @ RRev in Jantzen Beach in Portland. VERY helpful and a pleasure to do business with. I WILL be going back. They had the dyno ready upon my arrival and had me tuning within 5 to 10 minutes or so of arrivng. Had to sign waivers and tie the car down etc.





 
K

kmfdmk

Old School Cool
Nov 5, 2007
112
0
0
Marietta, OH / Vancouver, WA
www.kmfdmk.com
tbcmorris;1247393 said:
Very nice!!! Congrats. What are you mods? Engine management? And when you say your rich what is you afr's?
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Mods... everything...

Forged Rods & Pistons
Thermal insulator gasket between head and intake
P&P on head, intake and exhaust manifold
knife edged crank
crank scraper
upgraded oil pump
oil cooler & thermostat (for the oil)
550cc Siemens Injectors
Aeromotive RRFRP
57 trim CT-26
12x3x36 IC
2.5" IC pipes
full 3" exhaust
Innovate Motorsports LC-1 wideband

Engine management is the MAFT-PRO on 5.03 and tuning done in Tuner Pro RT.

And by rich I mean I was pegging the dyno wideband at 10 AFR's. Sometimes on my onboard I was showing as rich as 9.3. The leanest it went under full boost was about 11.5 or 11.7 (but we richened that up a little to get it a bit lower)
 
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hottscennessey

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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Richmond, VA
You definately have a lot of leaning-out to do, it's literally killing your power from 3.5k-4.5k RPM. Keep in mind you're still on the stock ECU, so you'll probably have to mess with your FPR to get fuel and timing where it needs to be.

Great numbers, congrats! Can't wait to see the results with a solid tune.
 
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kmfdmk

Old School Cool
Nov 5, 2007
112
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Marietta, OH / Vancouver, WA
www.kmfdmk.com
blk92suprat;1247615 said:
very nice....what was your maximum boost of the ct57 to achieve those numbers?
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As per the Dyno sheet, it was 19.19 psi

lagged;1247627 said:
do you know the max duty cycle the injectors were running? also which fuel pump?
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Actually NO I don't. I'll have to check on that ASAP thanks for the reminder. Fuel pump is a single Walbro 255.

hottscennessey;1247638 said:
You definately have a lot of leaning-out to do, it's literally killing your power from 3.5k-4.5k RPM. Keep in mind you're still on the stock ECU, so you'll probably have to mess with your FPR to get fuel and timing where it needs to be.

Great numbers, congrats! Can't wait to see the results with a solid tune.
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Yeah, I may have to actually do a bit of coarse adjustment with a Mid & HI load user tune to pull more fuel in that midrange. I spent an hour and 15 minutes doing some 25 pulls, and the ENTIRE time I was leaning it out in the 3000 to 5000 range.

The other thing is :3d_frown: I'm hitting fuel cut again....So it's more street tuning again. Last time it was because SOMEONE (me) had the boost settings set too high... Oops. Not just the PSI Set, but TPS Start was too low, Gain was too low etc. MAFT-PRO was trying to over-compensate for th boost, and the ECU was getting scared :D
 
lagged

lagged

1991 1JZ
Mar 30, 2005
2,616
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new rochelle
the reason i ask for the duty cycle is because i am planning on running my 60-1 with some mkiv 550s and from my calculations i shouldnt be able to safely (.85 duty cycle) do more than ~400hp.

so depending on the duty cycle of your 550s id say you might be at the end of your safety margin as far as power level is concerned.

but maybe i am wrong? anyone else with any ideas/opinions?
 
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frontierguy25

New Member
Mar 26, 2007
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There are alot of MK4's running close to 500rwhp on stock fuel and a couple over! I've seen them in person actually! I think that you will be just fine with 550's. Shoot there are several 7M's with 550's running close to or over 500rwhp.
 
K

kmfdmk

Old School Cool
Nov 5, 2007
112
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0
Marietta, OH / Vancouver, WA
www.kmfdmk.com
I'm still looking into the max duty cycle of the Siemens Deka's. I'm running all the time on 92 octane or higher (pump gas). And as for the MAFT-Pro.. I love it, but I'm a computer nerd, and I mostly understand wtf it's doing.

I'm still trying to figure out the boost control shit though. DC Start, DC %, Gain and all that crap.

The injectors are:

2.8 Ohms Low Impedance
55lbs/hr - 575cc/min
P/N 3102 Also has this number stamped on the side: 4 160 00780
Siemens Deka



IJ Do you know where I can read up on wtf the boost control settings are doing?
 
7MGTEsup

7MGTEsup

Formerly 'Down but not out'
Jun 14, 2005
614
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England
kmfdmk;1250486 said:
Do you know where I can read up on wtf the boost control settings are doing?
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Here is a good guide to setting up boost control witht the MAFT pro

What the MAFTPRO manual should say about boost control is set your actuator to the minimum boost you want to run WITHOUT MAFTPRO correction. Then set your target PSI to what you want (19psi), set Start PSI to 3 psi less than that (16psi), set start duty to 50%, set your TPS and RPM to slightly above normal cruise, set your gain to "10".

****This means you will build boost quick on the bottom (until Start PSI is met), but the actuator will start opening too soon, and too quickly. <- safe

Do a third gear pull and log your boost. The line for solenoid will spike when the turbo is trying to build boost (100% solenoid duty). AFTER THAT - If the line goes up raise your start duty. If the line down, lower your duty. Try to get a line that starts out fairly level. If you boost goes to target and then drops raise start duty. If you boost spikes, lower start duty.

****Adjusting start duty adjusts the amount of air getting to the solenoid/actuator *initially*. The gain controls how quick the solenoid can self adjust thereafter. For now, you want to adjust this percentage to get a level line after the spike.

Once the solenoid line is fairly level after the spike, raise the Start PSI until you get a little boost spike. Lower it a bit to remove the boost spike.

****Similar to the above. On a large, laggy turbo you can build boost fast, then slam the actuator with alot of air at the last minute to avoid a boost spike (High Start PSI, low start duty). Alternatively, you can apply less air initally but apply it earlier to prevent boost spike (low Start PSI, High start duty). It may be desireable to do the latter to take the edge off a really hard hitting turbo.

Lower your gain to ~4 and hopefully you'll enjoy stable boost.

**** Lower the gain to ~4 and make sure your boost stays stable. If the gain is too high, boost can fluctuate. If it's too low, boost may creep up/down.
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