My Crower rods have been on backorder for several weeks and I have been toying with cancelling the order and wait on some Pauter rods. Would any of you go one or the other way? Why/why not? They're the same cost at around $1100 so if one gives a discinct advantage I'd like to know... gotta hold up to 800+
Crower or Pauter rods?
- Thread starter GeneSplicer
- Start date
Some things never change!
A few years ago I was faced with this exact situation and went for the Pauter's and had 0 regrets.
A few years ago I was faced with this exact situation and went for the Pauter's and had 0 regrets.
Same price, I'd take Pauters over Crower.
Nothing against Crower, the Pauters are just that good!
Nothing against Crower, the Pauters are just that good!
If it's going to be revved over 8k the Oil pump shaft needs to be relieved in 2 places by 2mm as well.
Yep mine had a couple of mm clearence and still managed to brush the shaft and chatter the bearings, quick cut in the Lathe and all was well.
Big long wet noodle engines move around a LOT more than you'd expect (part of why I'm not keen on solid engine mounts)
Big long wet noodle engines move around a LOT more than you'd expect (part of why I'm not keen on solid engine mounts)
I was a bit stunned that it could flex that much as there's plenty of clearence to the shaft :aigo:
Had to swap out the 7M crank as it had chattered #1 and #2 crankpins enough to be visible, turned the shaft fitted my spare identical prepped 6M crank and all was well again.
Had to swap out the 7M crank as it had chattered #1 and #2 crankpins enough to be visible, turned the shaft fitted my spare identical prepped 6M crank and all was well again.
No not saying that at all, both cranks had the same balance and identical prep work it's just that the 7M was marked up and I had the fresh 6M one there.
I was interested to see if there were any differences with just the crank swap, the Oil Pump drive shaft issue was corrected by turning it down 2mm.
As a direct comparison the 6M was harsher until 6500 but did accelerate quicker then it was impossible to tell any difference as the 7M gets busy from there to my 8500 limit, all of this inspired me to remove the same amount of weight from the 7M crank and put it back in so I had the best of both worlds.
I was interested to see if there were any differences with just the crank swap, the Oil Pump drive shaft issue was corrected by turning it down 2mm.
As a direct comparison the 6M was harsher until 6500 but did accelerate quicker then it was impossible to tell any difference as the 7M gets busy from there to my 8500 limit, all of this inspired me to remove the same amount of weight from the 7M crank and put it back in so I had the best of both worlds.
Naw guys, that's cool... I learned something! So if I do go with the Pauters then there's a little rod clearance issue... no big deal to do while it's in the shop... if the Pauters are super better than Crowers... I kinda placed them in the same league.
That's interesting info on the oil pump shaft... and an easy fix too. Thanks for the heads up.
That's interesting info on the oil pump shaft... and an easy fix too. Thanks for the heads up.
IJ.;1373321 said:About this much on a stock bore 7M
Ian, what is the closest distance between the rod beam and bottom of the cylinder after grinding?
After thinking about 7M as long twisting noodle it should be at least ~2 mm?