Ok so I needed to replace the cps. I had an old one laying around so I took it all apart and cleaned it all up. Got the pickup coils to where they just barely clear the rotor. I turned the motor until i could see the first cam nose through the oil filter cap to get TDC. I put the sensor in the best way I could. Not sure what to line the groove on the sensor up with. Got the car together and turned the motor and no start. Didnt sound like it was even close to starting. Any tips or suggestions would be awesome:1zhelp:
CPS install woes
- Thread starter D7MSupra
- Start date
First thing you need to do is look up the definition of TDC... Pull the cam gear cover off there are marks on the cam gears you want them pointing straight up there are marks on the metal plate behind the gears you want them to line up.
Edit or do what hvyman said below, its a little easier.
Edit or do what hvyman said below, its a little easier.
there is a mark on the crank pulley and a 0 on the front timing cover. match those while looking at the came to make sure its on the compression stroke. eye balling is not good enough.
then follow this:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24
edit: got beat. but to pull the cam gear cover on a 7m you have to pull the t stat housing which involves draining coolant.
then follow this:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24
edit: got beat. but to pull the cam gear cover on a 7m you have to pull the t stat housing which involves draining coolant.
When you install the CPS you need to install it with the rotor turned slightly off because when the gear engages it will turn slightly due to the helical gear design.
Also I'd make 100% sure that TDC on the Damper is actually TDC on the timing case as the 7M dampers have a habit of slipping on their hubs giving an incorrect timing mark.
To do this pull #1 plug and place a chopstick so it's sitting on the piston then rotate the crank watching the chopstick, there will be a point where it hesitates before heading back down this is TDC, compare the marks.
As a temp fix (perm fix is replacement) you can re-mark the damper with a dob of white paint and you're good to set the timing but be aware it may move so you have to repeat the chopstick exercise each time you adjust timing.
To do this pull #1 plug and place a chopstick so it's sitting on the piston then rotate the crank watching the chopstick, there will be a point where it hesitates before heading back down this is TDC, compare the marks.
As a temp fix (perm fix is replacement) you can re-mark the damper with a dob of white paint and you're good to set the timing but be aware it may move so you have to repeat the chopstick exercise each time you adjust timing.
Not really Colin it just turns the inner hub, be a good idea to paint a line across the damper on installation then you could easily check it from time to time.
mkIIIman089;1478600 said:
Yes, you will turn the engine so the cam gears have the notch at 12 o'clock and the timing mark on the damper will not be at 0*
Right, I just set it all from scratch, so there is no reference like that... and I didn't bother to check before hand.
IJ.;1478612 said:IF it was set BEFORE the damper slipped
True, but if the engine ran well at some point after the cam timing was set, then its safe to assume it was set before the damper slipped, because if it wasnt, the valve timing would be fucked up and it would have run shitty if at all.
Mine seems to run fine at everything except idle... where it started missing like crazy. Timing light would skip beats as well, so it's some kind of ignition problem I believe, but the pulley slip thing has me very slightly questioning that thought.
Either way the chopstick thing is real easy to do . I did this using a small extendo magnet just to be safe.
Yep come across it quite a few times.shaeff;1478616 said:
Could only be a couple of degrees out, it would still run fine but wouldn't be "correct", trouble starts when you get away from stock settings/boost and wonder why it's gutless/pinging for no apparant reason.lewis15498;1478618 said:
A dial indicator is the best way to check but failing that the chopstick is near enough to see if it's an issue.
I always seem to find it a bit vague when trying to pinpoint exactly where the elevation pause occurs. I can get a general area but being precise enough to set timing is quite a bit more difficult.
Dial indicator is the only way to go (thanks for that idea, LOL).
Dial indicator is the only way to go (thanks for that idea, LOL).
You might have a degree or so of rock at TDC but it's not going to affect timing that you'd notice, I'm talking about the damper being 20>30 or more degree's off, first noticed it once when I couldn't find the mark with the light till I got under the car
Ah, gotcha. I don't know how you even got it to run 20-30 deg off! Both head-off repairs I've done were quite picky about starting if the timing was off <10 deg.
mkIIIman089;1478626 said:
It would have had to be Lewis's scenario in that case Colin, had to have slipped sometime after being set correctly as it was running fine at the time, just found it while doing a service.
I believe my issue was not gapping the new Iridiums that went in - foolishly thinking the people on the interweb were right that they should not be gapped. Lot's of $$ in plugs down the drain now... :cry: