Code 31, and VERY loud, inconistant knock

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
well...motor is a fresh rebuild, first time i've gotten it started up since said rebuild. I had lots of attempted starts, enough to turn a brand new set of plugs PITCH BLACK, so i found out that was why it wasn't starting. I had an old pair of plugs laying around (i figured they'd be fine for startup) they are bosch platinums, i cleaned the dust off of them with carb cleaner and went for it. Bang! the car fires right up, but it has a knock every here and there....a very LOUD knock like rod screaming let me out knock, and then it will be steady for about 20 or so seconds then go back to the intermittantly knocking and then after a while of running go away completely. It is so random, dead quiet, then one here, one there, wait a while, then constant for a moment and then it goes away. This is very loud people...scary loud. The oil is full on the dipstick and is new as can be. he car maybe has 10 minutes of running time over the course of 3 days and 3 of that is the very short drive i have taken. I can't hear the knock from in the car (open 3 inch downpipe) but i can clear as day (when its fucking there at least) from in front of the car. Also the car acted like it wants to die upon reving, it gave me a code 31 (air flow meter) and a code 51, i know the 51 is from having the ac button on, because the tps is brand new and calibrated freshly. I replace my afm with another one and i have the exact same code. Jiggling the wiring does not matter at all. My main concern right now is the painful knocking sound on my brand new motor. JE's, eagles, clevites, arp's, mhg, the whole 9 yards. I adjusted the set the base and ignition timing perfect btw and it made no difference.
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
46-50lbs at about 900-1100 rpm with shimmed pump, relocated filter, and rc7 fc cooler. the other day it was at about 20 but that was when it would barely stay running and it went up. I know the idle is high, but i just got it running still got those kinks to work out ya know? pulled the first 3 plug wires also and it made no difference.
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
i couldn't tell you honestly ian, i gave my builder the manual i had at the time (chilton's, i was unaware of the tsrm at the time) and i told him to follow it as he would a bible, and he said he did so. He mic'd everything and made sure shit was to spec (he said)
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
tear down and rebuild? What do you think it is? Why never run it again? isn't rod knock steady and doesn't go away? It was extremely loud from the beginning, never got any worse, and isn't there all the time.
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
Alright thanks so far guys. But just for clarification, i thought rod knock was steady not (k means knock) k...............k....kk.....k.kkk..............k.......kkkkkkkkkkkkkk....kk....k.........kkkk.....and then stop, there is no pattern really. Think some fresh bearings would solve this? If the crank and rods are okay do you think i can get away with just buying a new set of rod bearings?
 

Dr Chill

4 hungry Supras
Nov 27, 2007
329
0
0
47
Mississippi
That sux man , But IJ is right , Dont run it . pull it apart & inspect . I will be doing a build soon & hope that never happens to me . I will be doing my own work & following the tsrm word for word , Except the head torque specs . I will be useing arp specs for them . I hope you get the issue resolved ,,,,, Good luck
 

fixitman04

fixer of all things !!
Sep 18, 2008
787
0
16
north dakota
Ij may be right, but usually a rod knock wont "go away" and would be rpm dependant.
im leaning towards a piston slap, or possibly a loose or damaged component(clutch disk, torque converter) as it is intermittant.

did you drop the engine in separate or was the trans installed with the motor?
auto or manual?

either way you need to pull the motor and do some eyeballing.
pay attention as you pull it, you may find something out of place or broken.
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
it does it when oil pressure is at 60 psi though. and the trans is a 5 speed installed on the motor and dropped down in the car along with the motor.
 

88-7MGTE

New Member
Change the oil, make sure you inspect whats in the oil first before doing anything else. In most cases it should show you alot, look for any metal shavings. Then go to removing of oil pan and look for anything out of the ordinary maybe the problem is elsewhere.