origionally posted by Mr Boost:
I did a Cluch Master Cylinder install this weekend, here are a few notes if you do this task.
Procedure:
Remove hardline at the resovoir, fluid leaks out onto a rag.
Remove knee panel trim under dash.
Locate CM push rod from clutch pedal: one clip and pin.
Remove two nuts for studs of the CM:
One is visable under the area where the pedal comes close to the firewall.
Second is hardly visable on the blind side of the bracket of the clutch pedal assembly.
Install new assembly in reverse.
Bleed the clutch line at the slave cylinder, it has a bleeder just like a brake caliper. Have someone pump the pedal as you bleed it, again same technique to remove the air from the line.
As expected, working on your back or upside down sucks, but I'm glad it's done now. My CM was leaking on the floor for too long!
Shawndude added:
Some people struggle getting at the nuts that hold the master, and the trick is to use a long extension bar, or a swivel joint socket.
I have a 3 foot extension bar that came in handy for this.
It is also important to adjust the clutch piston properly, otherwise it can get damaged by over-travel, or make your clutch slip. Follow the TSRM instructions:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/cl/CL_03.html
...almost always when the master fails, it will leak on the inside of the car. Lift up the floor mats and carpet, and see if there is brake fluid there.
If there is fluid, it's gone. If not, you can try bleeding it, but most likely there is an opening in the circuit somewhere. I would re-tighten all the connections, bleed it and see how it goes.
Aftermarket units seem to fail in very short time (like months). A real Toyota unit will last another 15 years most likely.
I did a Cluch Master Cylinder install this weekend, here are a few notes if you do this task.
Procedure:
Remove hardline at the resovoir, fluid leaks out onto a rag.
Remove knee panel trim under dash.
Locate CM push rod from clutch pedal: one clip and pin.
Remove two nuts for studs of the CM:
One is visable under the area where the pedal comes close to the firewall.
Second is hardly visable on the blind side of the bracket of the clutch pedal assembly.
Install new assembly in reverse.
Bleed the clutch line at the slave cylinder, it has a bleeder just like a brake caliper. Have someone pump the pedal as you bleed it, again same technique to remove the air from the line.
As expected, working on your back or upside down sucks, but I'm glad it's done now. My CM was leaking on the floor for too long!
Shawndude added:
Some people struggle getting at the nuts that hold the master, and the trick is to use a long extension bar, or a swivel joint socket.
I have a 3 foot extension bar that came in handy for this.
It is also important to adjust the clutch piston properly, otherwise it can get damaged by over-travel, or make your clutch slip. Follow the TSRM instructions:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/cl/CL_03.html
...almost always when the master fails, it will leak on the inside of the car. Lift up the floor mats and carpet, and see if there is brake fluid there.
If there is fluid, it's gone. If not, you can try bleeding it, but most likely there is an opening in the circuit somewhere. I would re-tighten all the connections, bleed it and see how it goes.
Aftermarket units seem to fail in very short time (like months). A real Toyota unit will last another 15 years most likely.