I read that it's okay to just switch from regular oil to full synthetic, if this is true then I'll switch to Castrol European Formula aka German Castrol since I have read multiple times while researching oil on this forum and others that it is very good oil and a true synthetic.
Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
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yes you can switch, it is just bad to waffle back and forth. pick one and stick with it.
also, i run 5w-30, but i live in california. does it freeze in houston? even if it does, it is summer right now. i would go with a lighter oil.
also, i run 5w-30, but i live in california. does it freeze in houston? even if it does, it is summer right now. i would go with a lighter oil.
It hardly freezes here maybe a couple times but not often at all. Our winter lasts like 2 weeks lol.
Alright so plan tomorrow is to put everything back in, exhaust manifold heatshield, change spark plugs, connect the rest of the wiring harness, charge pipe, intercooler pipe, radiator, and hoses then refill the radiator I might flush it with distilled water before putting in 50/50 mix. Get some Rotella 5w-30 or would 15w-30 be better? Also 7Ms don't like anything under -30 right? I remember reading that in one of the many threads on here about oil.
I got Rotella 15w-40, they didn't have 15w-30, and a Purolator classic filter after awhile I will change the oil again and use a better Purolator filter.
15w40 is way to high viscosity of oil
15w40 is used mainly in diesel engines
5w30 is what you need
i wouldnt bother with synthetic oils as of right now
IIRC you bought car with BHG and havent really driven it
for all you know oil could be leaking out of every gasket/seal on bottom end
put non synthetic oil in now...run it for 3k miles
if everything is fine then go ahead with synthetic
just trying to save ya money
take that filter back too...purolator filters are junk
grab a wix filter...napa gold filters are wix
15w40 is used mainly in diesel engines
5w30 is what you need
i wouldnt bother with synthetic oils as of right now
IIRC you bought car with BHG and havent really driven it
for all you know oil could be leaking out of every gasket/seal on bottom end
put non synthetic oil in now...run it for 3k miles
if everything is fine then go ahead with synthetic
just trying to save ya money
take that filter back too...purolator filters are junk
grab a wix filter...napa gold filters are wix
I will do that tomorrow then. Right now I am having trouble finding where to put the oil dipstick and I cannot find it in the TSRM to save my life. I know where it bolts to on the turbo but I don't know where it goes in on the block.
This was my stopping point for the night because after I put on the cover I realized I didn't put in the valve cover screws lol, so tomorrow I am going to get replacement bolts for those instead of the retarded philips head bolts and use new washers that came with my kit then finish her up, flush her out with oil, replace that 15w-40 Rotella with 5w-30, pull the EFI fuse and jump the diagnostics E1 and TE1 then crank her for awhile to get oil flowing, put the fuse back and leave the E1 and TE1 jumper then start her up. When I put the CPS I didn't feel it turn on the first try, beginner's luck maybe? I'll find out how lucky I am when I start her up tomorrow. When I start it with E1 and TE1 jumped should I expect the check engine light to flash or something like that or does it start up normally without flashing lights?
Well I scared myself shitless when I poured almost 2 gallons of distilled water into the radiator then I saw big puddle under the car down by the end of the tranny, I got under and followed it turned out to be the hose at the back of the motor on top that I forgot to tighten, so I did and no more leak. Then when I poured oil in the car from the 5 quart jug, no leak, then I poured it back in from the container I used, massive leak which turned out to be from the valve covers since the stupid philips head bolts stopped turning when they weren't actually tightening down the valve covers. I am getting new valve cover bolts from ACE hardware tomorrow and another jug of oil to flush the motor again, can't hurt to flush it twice, then get a good oil filter and another 5qrt jug of Rotella to change the oil again after 3k miles.
Here is what the oil looked like after the re-pour.
I have some in a water bottle that I left sitting and tomorrow I'll check it out and post pics. Oh, where does the hard line from under the charcoal canister connect to? I can't find a hose or anything that would reach it.
Here is what the oil looked like after the re-pour.
I have some in a water bottle that I left sitting and tomorrow I'll check it out and post pics. Oh, where does the hard line from under the charcoal canister connect to? I can't find a hose or anything that would reach it.
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Someone just pm'd me on another forum saying they have a lexus afm for sale and wanted to sell one to me, I do plan on going with higher boost eventually but not anytime soon should I still buy the AFM if it is cheap and store it until I get 550CC injectors?
Hard line from the canister just vents to the passenger side fender well. I goes through the shock tower with a grommet around it if I'm not mistaken.
Ah, seems like I will have to loosen it and feed it through lol. That seems to be what I am getting from my extensive search.
Doat;1864015 said:
do what you want
you can find lexus afm's w/o electronics for dirt cheap...like $50 shipped
i would save money for misc. stuff that your going to need after you get it running
Well I know I can do what I want lol but I want to know what would happen if I installed that Lexus AFM since I read that if I put it on I would run lean. I'll just pass on the offer and keep scouring for a master window switch and blue coin holder since the lid on mine keeps popping open.
Quick update:
I got new bolts for the thermostat housing and valve cover to replace those stupid philips head bolts.
Quick update:
I got new bolts for the thermostat housing and valve cover to replace those stupid philips head bolts.
I went to start the car up but my brother saw some fuel coming out from the big banjo bolt regulator type thing that connects the number 1 fuel pipe to the fuel rail at the back of the motor. It was not tightened all the way but I am confused on how the washers are supposed to go around the banjo, there is a small washer and a larger washer do they both go above the banjo hard pipe or is the large washer supposed to be between the fuel rain and banjo?
that is your hi pressure fuel line...the regulator type thing is called fuel dampner
IIRC smaller goes between rail and banjo...then bigger goes between banjo and dampner
IIRC smaller goes between rail and banjo...then bigger goes between banjo and dampner