I had this issue when I first got this car in Feb as well as misfiring. but it was fixed.....back then when I got it I changed the plugs and wires...i noticed that 2 of the spark plug wires were in the wrong place.....that was why it was misfiring...I corrected that and the stalling went away. Now since Sunday it started again and only when slowing down from high speeds....anyone have any ideas?......one other thing the clutch feels really soft these days...
Car shuts off when decellerating
- Thread starter ebang
- Start date
ebang said:
What kind of exhaust do you have? Mine does that when I pull out the silencer decreasing back pressure. Might be a place to start with your exhaust...
just a wild guess...have you checked your timing? if the plug wires were misplaced i'd suspect other tuning issues and since the plug wires were messed up maybe the dizzy wasn't replaced or tightened correctly after it was removed or adjusted.
Mine does that sometimes before its warmed up. Its probably from running too rich. After Im warmed up its fine. I have an O2 sensor being shipped.
What is your idle set at?
Last time you cleaned (aftermarket) or changed (OEM) your air filter?
What is your idle set at?
Last time you cleaned (aftermarket) or changed (OEM) your air filter?
I have a new air filter that was added in March. I don't know how to set the idle though. Normally the car if fine until it warms up then I start getting the issues. What I noticed is that after coming off the clutch and putting the car in nuetral the RPM will dip to about 300 and the car turns off....but if I put it back into gear and make the RPMs above 1000 it will start up by it self????...not sure what is going on at this point
Did you pull codes yet? Look for 51. There is a couple of mechanical things you can look at also.
I just pulled codes and got back 42 and 43....
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal
Diagnosis
No "SPD" signal to ECU for 8 seconds when engine speed is between 2,500RPM and 4,500RPM (7M-GE) or 4,000RPM (7M-GTE) and coolant temp is below 80°C(176°F) and neutral start switch is off.
Trouble Area
Vehicle speed sensor circuit
Vehicle speed sensor
ECU
43 Starter Signal
Diagnosis
No "STA" signal to ECU until engine speed reaches 800RPM with vehicle not moving.
Trouble Area
Ignition switch circuit.
Ignition switch
ECU
where are these circuits located?
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal
Diagnosis
No "SPD" signal to ECU for 8 seconds when engine speed is between 2,500RPM and 4,500RPM (7M-GE) or 4,000RPM (7M-GTE) and coolant temp is below 80°C(176°F) and neutral start switch is off.
Trouble Area
Vehicle speed sensor circuit
Vehicle speed sensor
ECU
43 Starter Signal
Diagnosis
No "STA" signal to ECU until engine speed reaches 800RPM with vehicle not moving.
Trouble Area
Ignition switch circuit.
Ignition switch
ECU
where are these circuits located?
43 is unrelated, and I don't see 42 causing a closed throttle stall. When you shut the car off, do you here clicking under the hood?
Do you know what the dashpot is?
Do you know what the dashpot is?
Loss of the speed sensor effects a lot more than cruise control. The ECU uses it for several things as does the TEMS system and auto tranny ECU if one is installed. I'm not near my reference materials but iirc the speed sensor is one input used to determine when to resume injection after a decel fuel cut. I don't know if it could lead to close throttle stalling because I've never simulated it.
not really ....it stalls after the car is fully warmed up on all driving..eg..driving 60kms and coming to a stop sign if I let of the gas and put it into neutrel the RPMs will go below 500 and it will stall......but if I put it back in gear and the RPMs goes up it will start up again by it self.
ebang said:
This is normal for most standard shift cars. It's the same thing as push starting it, just a little easier.
*subscribed ...........to learn the answer to this.*
jetjock said:
I could be barking up the wrong tree altogether. Try and get the speed sensor signal fixed. Wiring is a common problem in areas effected by corrosion, such as salty roads. So do as JJ suggests.
The dashpot is the little thing on the end of a hose attached to the throttle. It is actually an emission control device, but I have seen it cause a headache or two.
JJ, seems like the airflow meter on the 7MGE is used in idle operation. I just can't remember any more. Since he is indicating a warmed up drivability problem, and not just a stall as I was thinking. Is there something he should look at?
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You can get under your car and disconnect the cable from the transmission.
Try spinning the cable tab to see if it spins freely. You can have someone watch the speedo if it moves freely and see if there is a slight movement on it. If your by yourself you can run the cable up in the engine compartment sit in the passengers seat and as rosie would say to donald "sit and spin" the cable to see a slight deflection on the speedo. If there is then either your output gear is hosed which is plastic or the metal gear the drives the plastic output gear. You can pull and inspect the plastic gear and see what shape its in. If you do and the transmission is not raised in the back you will lose your transmission oil out the hole so make sure you have a drip pan handy. Metal gear means the transmission will have to be repaired or changed.
Most times the cable goes bad. Mine went bad after installing my headers. The heat from them melted the cable internally which caused my cable to seize. By having the cable seize it caused the plastic gear to stop and get ground down by the metal one inside the transmission.
There are two cables btw, a short one about a foot and a half and the longer one that runs to the speedo.
There is also the small chance that your speedo crapped out. Ive had several in mine but I change them because the trip meter reset breaks.
I fixed the heat problem by wrapping my new cable with 1 inch aircraft heat tape where it goes across the headers. My gear is still on order from Japan.
So bottom line is that if the cable went it probably took the plastic gear with it.
Try spinning the cable tab to see if it spins freely. You can have someone watch the speedo if it moves freely and see if there is a slight movement on it. If your by yourself you can run the cable up in the engine compartment sit in the passengers seat and as rosie would say to donald "sit and spin" the cable to see a slight deflection on the speedo. If there is then either your output gear is hosed which is plastic or the metal gear the drives the plastic output gear. You can pull and inspect the plastic gear and see what shape its in. If you do and the transmission is not raised in the back you will lose your transmission oil out the hole so make sure you have a drip pan handy. Metal gear means the transmission will have to be repaired or changed.
Most times the cable goes bad. Mine went bad after installing my headers. The heat from them melted the cable internally which caused my cable to seize. By having the cable seize it caused the plastic gear to stop and get ground down by the metal one inside the transmission.
There are two cables btw, a short one about a foot and a half and the longer one that runs to the speedo.
There is also the small chance that your speedo crapped out. Ive had several in mine but I change them because the trip meter reset breaks.
I fixed the heat problem by wrapping my new cable with 1 inch aircraft heat tape where it goes across the headers. My gear is still on order from Japan.
So bottom line is that if the cable went it probably took the plastic gear with it.
You should have already ignored it, but skip the comment about the 51. I must have had a late night.
51 is set when the throttle is open during diagnostic, not closed.
51 is set when the throttle is open during diagnostic, not closed.