cam gear wobble, fearing the worst.

7M4EVR

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Oct 8, 2012
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I've showed myself the pictures, inspected all fasteners again, thinking I just made the mistake of not tightening the cam gear to spec the first time, have one hell of a paper trail on the car ask my wife, can't write myself a recheck, but I was a butthead to myself when I realised I made the mistake of not tightening the can gear bolt to spec....

Lol thanks for the advice anyway
 

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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Do yourself a favor, go easy on the engine for 500 miles then retorque everything you can get a socket/wrench on.

I did this and found more loose bolts than I liked, engine mount bolts were getting loose along with 2 bolts on the transmission brace. After this, I double checked EVERYTHING I could.
 

T3rril79

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Dec 10, 2010
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^that's a good idea. We just did a torque check on my brother's car about about 1000 miles. Fortunately, the hg bolts were fine but I can't say the same for other things (i.e, valve cover bolts, alternator, motor mounts, etc).
 

7M4EVR

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IndigoMKII;1974001 said:
Do yourself a favor, go easy on the engine for 500 miles.

This is easier said than done lol...

Nah I am, and will definitely retorque everything after some miles, getting to the 500 mark before winter is my goal so I'm ready for my SAFC install and professional tune over the winter and ready to rock for spring driving!
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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He did the work himself lol. I was actually there setting the timing, and I remember torqueing the pulley bolts.. but maybe I just made that up in my head haha

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
 
Oct 11, 2005
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When I rebuild an engine every bolt gets tightened to the specified torque. If one isn't specified, I use the standard bolt torques from bolt grade and size. Things don't fall off when you do that, just like a factory built car driven off the lot.

Too many people seem to think their calibrated arm is good enough, worst offenders are the people who should know better.
 

Nick M

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Sep 9, 2005
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If you need Loctite, I think you have a vibration problem. Afterall, critical fasteners in the engine get lubricated when installed.
 

jdmfreak

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Oct 8, 2010
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Dan_Gyoba;1974170 said:
If you put permanent/red loctite on the crank pulley bolt I will curse you. That's what the PO of my engine did, and it was a stone bitch to remove.

Exactly why I was trying to clarify I hate red loctite with a passion (for most things)
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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T3rril79;1974142 said:
What all did you loctite?
EVERYTHING

jdmfreak;1974147 said:
lololol

IJ what color/grade? loctite do you use??
262 on Steel parts, 243 on Aluminium parts, if you have trouble breaking the bond use a heat gun for a minute or so it's not rocket surgery ;)

I tend to rev my engines a bit harder for longer than most so maybe this is why they try to revert to kit form after long sessions on the rollers...
 

T3rril79

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Dec 10, 2010
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IJ.;1974174 said:
EVERYTHING


262 on Steel parts, 243 on Aluminium parts, if you have trouble breaking the bond use a heat gun for a minute or so it's not rocket surgery ;)

I tend to rev my engines a bit harder for longer than most so maybe this is why they try to revert to kit form after long sessions on the rollers...


HAHA so you were being literal? Good, now I know why my sarcasm meter wasn't working. Seriously, I am going to go back with the loctite.
 

7M4EVR

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Hey dudes, thought for sure we torqued it..:nono:..going back over the fasteners after assembly is done is now engraved in my brain. I'm just thankful for no damage.