Build advice

[VooDoo]

I am ready to start the build of my car.. I have a few concernes i would like some insite on..

First I have a good bit of upgrades I am adding to the build.
list.
lex afm
550 injectors
I/C with 2.5 hard pipes
remote oil cooler kit
afc neo
profec b spec II
aem uego controller
57 trim ct
walbro 255 w/12v mod
AFPR

NOW I had to re-ring the motor. I do not want to do all this and still be loosing compression out the bottom end How can I make sure that the rings seal before I take the time putting the motor back in? in short how can I do a compression and pressure hold test without turning over the motor. (motor has a titan MHG)

Will I be better off putting all this in at the same time and then have it tuned?
I don't want to be in a position were I get the car together and not be able to start it and not know if it is because of improper settings(from the piggyback system) or just that my timing is off, or any other situation...I am in need of some advise PLEASE..

Thankyou to all who chime in with advise in advance.. THANKYOU..

 

[jdub]

The TSRM has a complete section on what you need to do if you pull the pistons from the block...read it...page EM-69 starts talking about what you need to do. The cylinders will need to be checked for roundness, ridge remove at the top of the cylinders, and honed at a minimum. Make very sure the rings are gapped properly.

 

[noah89t]

i suggest getting the motor running under its' own ecu. work out the bugs that you will have, set the timing, use stock afm, and innjectors. once every thing is running well, then add the afm, injectors, neo, afpr, and aem. you can put on the ic, pipes, and oil cooler with no problem, just make sure you have no boost or vacuum leaks. but since this is a rebuild, you don't want to be boosting for a while any way. so keeping it relatively stock will not tempt you go fast.

 

[VooDoo]

As for the rebuild, the motor was just rebuilt less than 5000 miles ago. All work done by a machine shop. Head and block cut. Complete new bottom end. everything in the head was replaced except the valves they were reworked, . However If It would be best If I sent it back to be inspected I will. I was loosing compression out the bottom end from a couple cyl. MAYBE the break-in was not done proper.

As for the setting it up stock That makes sense.


If the motor was not broke in correctly could that have caused the rings to not seat properly?

AND the tsrm I will research that now. I actually have the dealers service book I call it the supra bible. It is about 2000 pages.

 

[SevenMKIII]

As for the rebuild, the motor was just rebuilt less than 5000 miles ago. All work done by a machine shop. Head and block cut. Complete new bottom end. everything in the head was replaced except the valves they were reworked, . However If It would be best If I sent it back to be inspected I will. I was loosing compression out the bottom end from a couple cyl. MAYBE the break-in was not done proper.

As for the setting it up stock That makes sense.


If the motor was not broke in correctly could that have caused the rings to not seat properly?

AND the tsrm I will research that now. I actually have the dealers service book I call it the supra bible. It is about 2000 pages.

Quick answer, yes.

There are many different theories about the "proper break-in" you just have to find one you feel comfortable with or know a trustworthy person that has done a certain method. 9 times out of 10 its human error, not the car's.

Do you know what machines your shop used? We use Rottler F67 for boring and Rottler HP6A and I am yet to see a block come out with more than 2 ten-thousands difference and a near-perfect circle bore.

Another question, was a torque plate used?

 

[VooDoo]

Well sad to say I do not. I am not even sure if they used a torque plate. I know its a shame. I would figure they did it right, that is what they do. I weld and I KNOW mine will pass any inspection or x-ray. I guess that not everyone is as proud of there profession as they should be. Man, and I thought this was a perfect world.

So would you recommend another trip to the machine shop for safety measures or replace the rings and get it in a position to do a compression test.?

I was curious if there was a way to do a compression test with the motor outside the car. or some type of leak-down test? If not so be it.

 

[IJ.]

Even if they used a Tq Plate (which I doubt) I bet they didn't have the Cam tensioner bolted in place

 

[SevenMKIII]

Even if they used a Tq Plate (which I doubt) I bet they didn't have the Cam tensioner bolted in place

At 36ft.lbs, correct? Probably not even the lower timing cover when milling it for that matter. :nono:

What did you gap the rings to?

 

[VooDoo]

The rebuild was not done by me. However I am doing this one. I will make sure everything is done correctly. I just bought a new truck so time is no issue.

 

[IJ.]

At 36ft.lbs, correct? Probably not even the lower timing cover when milling it for that matter. :nono:

What did you gap the rings to?

Correct

I found it pulls the bore half a thou

 

[noah89t]

AND the tsrm I will research that now. I actually have the dealers service book I call it the supra bible. It is about 2000 pages.

you may have a TSRM, if not, you can read it online at http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/techtips.aspx or you can order the tsrm from jeff watson at champion toyota. here is what each book cost me, since they broke the "big" book down into 4 smaller ones. i like this idea cause my big tsrm got pretty dirty in the engine section, and now if that happens again, all i have to do is order that book for 30.00 dollars or so. 1-800-327-2087
00400-rm115-u1 r/m 89 supra $28.09 engine
00400-rm115-u2 r/m 89 supra $37.18 engine
00400-rm115-u3 89 supra "v" $28.37 i'm guessing body
00400-wd058 89 supra "e" $18.64 electrical
total: $112.28