Brake caliper sticking after replacement

radiod

Supramania Contributor
Dec 13, 2007
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So last month I replaced my front calipers because the left side was sticking really badly and any attempt I made at resolving the issue lasted to about the first stop sign. Put new calipers on, flushed the old fluid out and put in some new DOT3, and everything was nice and happy.

I notice today on the tiny gradient of a hill I park on at work that the car isn't rolling in neutral. So after a bunch of driving around I make a point to check and see how the wheels feel to see if they're heating up from friction. Sure enough, front left side, warm to the touch on the wheel and I didn't even try touching the rotor itself because of it. Jacked up the car, tried to spin the wheel and it comes to a stop shortly after me letting go.

Where else in the system should I be looking for it to be sticking like that with brand new OEM calipers on the front???

EDIT: I did forget to mention that the back calipers were not bled during the process due to their bleeders being seized...that is on the to do list for the very near future, could that be the problem?
 

modmonster2008

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Sep 9, 2008
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Take the wheel off and inspect the brake/hub assembly, may be a good idea to get the rotor(s) resurfaced and get new pads as well, if thats not the case, inspect the brake hose that leads up to the wheel well for any signs of damage. If they seem fine id definitely try bleeding all calipers from farthest to closest, if all else fails, you may have gotten a faulty caliper, hopefully not..
 

radiod

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Dec 13, 2007
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Yeah, after doing a bit of research I found some had issues with the soft line between the caliper and the hard line as well. If that is the case, should I bother going with a stainless steel braided kit or just get OE lines? Are the braided lines by design any better or just a waste of money on OE brakes?
 

modmonster2008

mod crazy yo!
Sep 9, 2008
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^ True. I had this happen on my supra once a while ago. Try removing the lower caliper bolt and then rotating it up and sliding it out of the slider, if it doesnt slide out easily then the caliper must have gone seized on it, I dont know why they did not design it like the other cars that use two bolts to hold the caliper in place..
 

radiod

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Dec 13, 2007
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I'll give that a shot but last time I took it apart it was fine there, it was the piston that was seized. When replacing the caliper it was very generously lubed as well.
 

barkz

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Sep 14, 2010
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this is what happens when the piston in your caliper wont retract....BAD THINGS!
p1665611_1.jpg

p1665611_2.jpg
 

radiod

Supramania Contributor
Dec 13, 2007
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Yeah...that is what I want to try and avoid...

Forgot to mention that a new mount/slide was put on at the same time as the new calipers.
 

radiod

Supramania Contributor
Dec 13, 2007
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Ok, so this morning it's rotating freely again....doesn't really make much sense. Even tried pumping the brake a couple times while on the hill and it seems to be happy. Strange....
 

barkz

New Member
Sep 14, 2010
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dont rule out the thought that you may have a defective from factory part...it does happen. if it persists, i would take it back(i hope you have some kind of warranty) and try a new one
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
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Apr 17, 2007
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Were the calipers from toyota or oem reman replacements?

Usually grinding means inspection too. And not 2 weeks later.
 

radiod

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Dec 13, 2007
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They were Beck Arnley and supposed to be new, not rebuilt. And this MAY have been happening for longer, I just didn't notice it. It's not sticking NEARLY as bad as it was before, as in I got a 5mpg increase on my next tank of gas (though the last one also had some snowy weather which included more idiling etc.).

And what grinding?
 

radiod

Supramania Contributor
Dec 13, 2007
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Yeah, that's what I thought too. They did have two different part numbers, one for reman one for new, so I dunno. No core charge either. None the less, we'll see what happens with the hose change and some more bleeding. Going to be doing it Monday.