Best brake option for with stock 16" rims?

[VegaSupra]

My apologies if this has already been discussed in another thread, but I searched multiple ways and came up short of finding it.

I am wondering what the best option is for replacing... (and possibly upgrading?) the stock brakes? At the moment, there are crossed drilled rotors on the front and stock rotors on the rear.

Most of the big brake kits I see (like from Wilwood) require 18 inch wheels. Is there a brake upgrade option for stock rims? If not, is there a really good kit/option for 17 inch wheels?

Thanks,
VS

 

[Nick M]

Yeah, stock in original condition including the lines. Not with 20 plus years of wear. And tires.

 

[suprarx7nut]

What are you planning to do with the car? Street? Track? Canyon runs? The stock brakes have plenty of stopping power for hard stops if they aren't consecutive. You will experience brake fade if you try consecutive high speed stops with stock components. If you plan on doing track days or canyon runs with high speed braking a BBK upgrade is a good option but will always require larger wheels to hold the extra mass.

The stock brakes work well for the space they're given and the vehicle weight. I'd recommend ditching the drilled rotors for some Powerslot or even Brembo blanks. StopTech, EBC, or other semi-metallic sports pads can help reduce the likelihood of fade, but without a big brake kit you'll struggle to keep the brakes from fading on a track.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

The stock brakes work well for the space they're given and the vehicle weight. I'd recommend ditching the drilled rotors for some Powerslot or even Brembo blanks. StopTech, EBC, or other semi-metallic sports pads can help reduce the likelihood of fade, but without a big brake kit you'll struggle to keep the brakes from fading on a track.

This.

I have stock replacement Brembo rotors and good tires and have no problems being on the edge of the anti-lock for a good number of consecutive stops. This means that the weakest point of peak braking is still the tires. With the good semi-metallic sport pads, they'll last long enough for an auto-x lap without fade. For a street-driven application, I don't feel that my brakes are the weak point at all.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

EBC Pads are very good upgrade.

 

[rodel]

Oem rotors, Endless brake pads and fluid, steel braided brake lines. Done.

 

[hvyman]

Agreed with both above.

I've ran ebc and Trd brake pads both are great. And good pad and stock blank rotor and clean brake fluid.

My brake fluid looks new even after 23 years.

 

[te72]

Ran Porterfield R4S pads on OEM rotors that were freshly turned. Worked well for a street car, probably not so much for a track application though.

The ARZ kit can fit under many 17" wheels though, so if you can go that route, that would be my suggestion if you plan on abusing them. Plus, 17" wheels have better tire selection these days anyway.

 

[MNBmk3T]

Can you still get the TRD pads? I've heard a lot of people say they're pretty decent. Dealer buy maybe?

 

[toyotanos]

I love my ARZ brakes, and the 13" rotor kit fits under these 5Zigen FN01R-C's. I do have a 10mm spacer in there, but the 17x8 +45's would clear even without the spacer.

 

[VegaSupra]

Wow! I am shocked to hear so many say to go with stock rotors. I thought the MK3 brakes were sorta a weak spot.

But anyway... no my Supra is never tracked or raced or anything. In fact, I barely ever drive it but it's just around town when I do. Maybe 50 miles per week if that.

The original owner put on some cross drilled in the front, and from higher speeds (actually even 80-90 mph) the brakes are not happy anymore. Could be super old pads. Not really sure because I haven't even checked.

Ok so if I turn the rotors, get EBC pads, and keep brake fluid good, I should be set? That sounds great, for now at least.

Soon enough, I will spring for 17s or 18s.. Haven't decided yet. I like the idea of slapping some all white MKIVTT wheels and callin it a day. If there was a big brake kit that would fit under those that would be nice.

Thanks!

 

[suprarx7nut]

The stock brakes should allow at least one full stop from 100 without any problem. Check your brake pads and I'd probably change the rotors out too. I dont know a shop that will turn drilled rotors, so you may have no choice but to buy replacements.

Good semi-metallic pads, fresh fluid, and blank rotors should get you stopped everytime for around town driving. No need to upgrade beyond that until you're racing.

 

[Poodles]

Wow! I am shocked to hear so many say to go with stock rotors. I thought the MK3 brakes were sorta a weak spot.

But anyway... no my Supra is never tracked or raced or anything. In fact, I barely ever drive it but it's just around town when I do. Maybe 50 miles per week if that.

The original owner put on some cross drilled in the front, and from higher speeds (actually even 80-90 mph) the brakes are not happy anymore. Could be super old pads. Not really sure because I haven't even checked.

Ok so if I turn the rotors, get EBC pads, and keep brake fluid good, I should be set? That sounds great, for now at least.

Soon enough, I will spring for 17s or 18s.. Haven't decided yet. I like the idea of slapping some all white MKIVTT wheels and callin it a day. If there was a big brake kit that would fit under those that would be nice.

Thanks!

Yeah, they are a weak spot, but most people don't have the cash to upgrade them. Main issue in my opinion is not enough mass to take care of the heat, so the brake fluid boils easier. It's critical to have good fluid in the system (brake fluid absorbs water, making it easier to boil), and outside of that, inspect and replace any worn components. Pads make a LOT of difference as well.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

If your brakes are fading that easily, I didn't think that the pads should do that. Even really old pads (Not that mine ever get to be old) should be ready to handle at least one high speed stop.

Check the condition of the brake lines, and flush the fluid, then try again. Brake fluid that's absorbed moisture boils easily, resulting in brake fade, so old fluid is more of a hazard than old pads.

The reason that people don't like cross drilled rotors is that they don't handle the heat of stopping a 3000+ lb car as well as the stock surface or even slotted can.

 

[SideWinderGX]

Yeah, they are a weak spot, but most people don't have the cash to upgrade them. Main issue in my opinion is not enough mass to take care of the heat, so the brake fluid boils easier. It's critical to have good fluid in the system (brake fluid absorbs water, making it easier to boil), and outside of that, inspect and replace any worn components. Pads make a LOT of difference as well.

This times a billion.

How heavy your rotors are should be the only thing you DON'T want to cut weight on.

For rears, there's the thread 'rear bbk kit anyone' in this section...for the fronts there hasn't been anything that bolts right on, although some calipers are out there with 110 mm mounting distance (94 E500 benz for example). Time will tell.

 

[te72]

Wow! I am shocked to hear so many say to go with stock rotors. I thought the MK3 brakes were sorta a weak spot.

But anyway... no my Supra is never tracked or raced or anything. In fact, I barely ever drive it but it's just around town when I do. Maybe 50 miles per week if that.

The original owner put on some cross drilled in the front, and from higher speeds (actually even 80-90 mph) the brakes are not happy anymore. Could be super old pads. Not really sure because I haven't even checked.

Ok so if I turn the rotors, get EBC pads, and keep brake fluid good, I should be set? That sounds great, for now at least.

Soon enough, I will spring for 17s or 18s.. Haven't decided yet. I like the idea of slapping some all white MKIVTT wheels and callin it a day. If there was a big brake kit that would fit under those that would be nice.

Thanks!

Given what you've posted here, I would spend the ~$500 on some OEM (or turned, if you can get them done) rotors, a good set of pads, fresh fluid, and lines. If you plan on going with bigger wheels in the future, you might just save that money for the ARZ front kit. Hard to say, would depend on how bad your brakes are, and if you can wait until you can save up the ~$2000 for new wheels/brakes.

For what it's worth, Mk4 wheels are easy to come by, cheap, and look alright for the price. Plus, they open up possibility for better brake systems.