Asking for guidance.

Greek

New Member
May 20, 2010
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Ohio
So, this is my first real thread. I'd like to start off by saying that if this belongs in another section, I apologize.

I'm a new Supra owner. N/A '88. I would LOVE to turbo the hell out of it, but money dictates everything. Without a large bank account, would it be wise to consider doing a conversion (not a swap)? I would be going to STOCK GTE parts, nothing extravagant. Would the amount of work be overwhelming?

And if going N/A-T is too much, is it wise to try to get more out of the N/A, or would that be a waste of effort and money? I'm really not sure what I could do to the stock motor. I read the thread about modding it, and I already knew I was limited to the intake and exhaust.

Thank you in advance.
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
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Beach Park, IL
It's true though... dumping money into the N/A is pointless, unless you 3" test pipe and exhaust for plans for going turbo. If you boost your N/A, be sure to run the best gas available (highest octane and best additive package... Shell, Marathon, BP have good packages). You may need meth/water injection or possibly unleaded race gas (100 if you can find it) to be safe. You'll also need a way to tune, whether it be MAFT Pro (best piggyback option) or SAFC.

Costs add up. I found it to be more economical to do a 7M-GTE swap. I got the engine, and refreshed it with new gaskets and what not when the old 7M-GE was still running. Once it blew, I swapped the engine in.


My advice to you: keep the 7M-GE the way it is right now. work your ass off saving for the swap and whatever else you'll need, and drive the car on the current engine until you can afford the swap. Like you said, "money dictates everything" :)
 

ForcedTorque

Join the 92 Owners Group
Jul 11, 2005
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Satsuma, Alabama, United States
Moy;1570931 said:
It's true though... dumping money into the N/A is pointless, unless you 3" test pipe and exhaust for plans for going turbo. If you boost your N/A, be sure to run the best gas available (highest octane and best additive package... Shell, Marathon, BP have good packages). You may need meth/water injection or possibly unleaded race gas (100 if you can find it) to be safe. You'll also need a way to tune, whether it be MAFT Pro (best piggyback option) or SAFC.

Costs add up. I found it to be more economical to do a 7M-GTE swap. I got the engine, and refreshed it with new gaskets and what not when the old 7M-GE was still running. Once it blew, I swapped the engine in.


My advice to you: keep the 7M-GE the way it is right now. work your ass off saving for the swap (X2) and whatever else you'll need, and drive the car on the current engine until you can afford the swap. Like you said, "money dictates everything" :) Drive it N/A until it falls apart (this could even be fun once the entire swap is ready to go in).

I agree with Moy, with the added X2.
 

Greek

New Member
May 20, 2010
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Ohio
Something that has been bothering me:

How hard is it going to be to find an in running condition, low mileage, not beat GTE? From what I know, these things aren't found at the corner store...
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
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Beach Park, IL
fairly hard to find one that's not ready to blow the HG. Gotta get lucky.

Low mileage... well if you find one under 100k that's low mileage as you'll get haha
 

mkiiichip

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Sep 10, 2007
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Moy;1570931 said:
. work your ass off saving for the swap and whatever else you'll need, and drive the car on the current engine until you can afford the swap. Like you said, "money dictates everything" :)

The 7m is a wonderful motor, as long as it is properly machined, built, and tuned.
There are many members here that have opted for the JZ series motors. Although this is an expensive swap (aprox 5k, depending on many variables) some find these motors to be a more desirable swap for various reasons.

My best advise is (while never cheap) do it once, do it right, and spend way more money then originally planed, and finally, ENJOY.!