arp head stud quick question, actually workin on car :P

bobpogoman

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May 10, 2006
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ok im installing a mhg 2.0 got everything machined etc, im re-using my head studs, still got some moly lube but will use it on bolt i think.

question is what i do really, im not real good in english and the manual isnt clear.

1- put some 30 oil on stud part that goes to the block
2- hand tight the studs
3- put mhg,head then some moly lube on the part that i put the nut
4-torque the nut in multiple passes like in the tsrm up to 85 lbs

the studs are really hand tighted? no torque? and for the oil on block part is it ok? i heard people using loc-tite but i dont have any :S
 

bobpogoman

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May 10, 2006
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no loctite but i put oil on it?

and hand tight torque to 90 lbs, what do you mean?

torque the stud at 0 lbs (hand tight) then put the nuts and torque only the nuts at 90?
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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Ignore this guy...he's buzzed alright...another one that's pulling ARP torque numbers out of his arse.
ARP studs are torqued to 80 ft/lbs using moly:



I would chase the block threads. Installing the studs (assuming your studs have the hex on top) is actually easier once the head is on. Just place the MHG on the block deck, align with the index pins, and drop the head on using the pins to align. Put the washers in the bolt holes before you put the head on. Yes you can use oil on the block threads...no loctite...that's used if you have slight cracks in the thread holes to the water jacket and you want to seal them (doesn't always work) or if you want to install the studs in the block permanently (not a good idea). Screw the studs in from the top using an allen hex...finger tight.

Make sure none of the rivets holding the MHG together are touching the block deck when you place the MHG on.
 

jdub

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montego6500;1081897 said:
thats what mine are at and ive heard 90 and 95


Do you have a problem with reading comprehension?

I didn't post the ARP spec sheet just for giggles. I could care less what you have your studs torqued to or what you've "heard"...90-95 ft/lbs is an over torque and erodes the safety margin ARP designs for it's hardware. Considering the differences in expansion due to heat between an aluminum head and steel block, an over torque is not something you want to do.

ARP spec's 80 ft/lbs w/ moly for a reason...the values you used and "heard" are wrong...period.

Vs relying on hearsay, why not do a little reading...the ARP site is a good place to start:

ARP Tech - Installation

Additional info:

Motor Mag - Engine Studs

Do me a favor, either do a tiny bit of research for the info you post or STFU.
 

jdub

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montego6500;1082348 said:
ok so i was wrong by 10 lbs no need to be jerks about it god damn


No, you were wrong by promoting hearsay...doesnt matter if it was 10, 20, or 100 ft/lbs.

Next time, KNOW what you're talking about before you post - be prepared to back it up.
And, If I'm a jerk by telling you that straight up front and correcting your so called "knowledge"...so be it.
 

IJ.

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montego6500;1082348 said:
ok so i was wrong by 10 lbs no need to be jerks about it god damn

Yes there's every reason to be jerks about it.

If you don't know, STFU and don't post in tech.

This way you won't need to get pissy and whine when someone that does know corrects you.