Alright, a little electrical hiccup? SOLVED

[airhead04]

OK, I've been in the process of putting my car back together and the has come across having to do some wiring. Now I am no electrical genius BUT I can function around a harness if need be.

My first problem::1zhelp:

I have a remote start on my car and we were giving the car power today. The car without even having the key in the ignition tried to turn over right when the positive terminal hit the post (efi fuse was pulled because I still needed to prime the motor with oil). The lights all flickered inside the car quite fast and it started to crank rapidly. As if I was trying to use the remote start on it every second. I pulled the inline fuses on the alarm system and that killed the power to it. So everything is normal, just I dont have an alarm now. I only cut ONE wire from the alarm system to run it in a more safe area of the car. And it was connected to the same wire as before. So I do not understand why the car did this. Any ideas???

Second problem::1zhelp:

My BRAKE light is staying on, on my cluster. Whether it is up or down. The only thing I did there was replace the ebrake shoes and hardware in the back. So I am also stumped by this.


Third problem::1zhelp:

I went to prime the fuel system (ARE OUR CARS SELF PRIMING? IVE READ A FEW THREADS THAT SAY NO, THEN A FEW THAT SAY YES). The pump doesnt seem to get any power until AFTER Ive attempted to turn the car over. When the key goes from the start to on position (after attempted turn over) I can hear the pump run for maybe 4 seconds after. Then it shuts off. This is an a1000 fuel pump. I am running it off the stock wiring harness. I just extended the pigtail to the pump. That is all I did for the fuel system ELECTRONICALLY. So I am not sure why it isnt working correctly. Or maybe it is and I dont realize it? But the pump never turns on, on turn over so I dont think it is working right.

If any videos or pics or anything like that is needed let me know. I really need help guys, this is my last step to starting my car. :cry:

Thanks,
David

 

[SURUKO]

#2 did u checked the little sensor under the handle? #3 You can put the jumper in the diagnostics fp to B+ to check if its goes on.

 

[Nick M]

You have continuity from B+ to the small wire on the starter. Pull out the EWD and see where. My guess is the aftermarket garbage on the car, or it wasn't wired correctly. Check the amount of fluid in the brake resevoir. The pump is running correctly. You do not get power to the pump unless the engine is running, or the STA signal (starter) is engaged. And since you are cranking without the STA, you will not get fuel to start.

 

[jetjock]

Nice. Good thing the car wasn't in gear. You wouldn't be the first guy to get pinned between a garage wall or another car. It's usually done by a buddy but still.

It might help to know if you installed the remote start, how you wired it, what alarm it is and what wire you messed with on it.

As Nick said check the brake fluid level/reservoir float switch. If it's ok check the switch on the e-brake handle.

With stock wiring the fuel pump does not run until the engine is cranked.

 

[airhead04]

You have continuity from B+ to the small wire on the starter. Pull out the EWD and see where. My guess is the aftermarket garbage on the car, or it wasn't wired correctly. Check the amount of fluid in the brake resevoir. The pump is running correctly. You do not get power to the pump unless the engine is running, or the STA signal (starter) is engaged. And since you are cranking without the STA, you will not get fuel to start.

Fluid level is good. Ill check the small wire on the ebrake as soon as I get back to the car. Im only getting power to the pump AFTER I tried to crank. then it kicks on for about 4 seconds then shuts off. So Its not running while I am cranking. Seems like this is a starter problem and not a fuel pump wiring problem then. I was looking in the wrong area. =/

 

[airhead04]

Nice. Good thing the car wasn't in gear. You wouldn't be the first guy to get pinned between a garage wall or another car. It's usually done by a buddy but still.

It might help to know if you installed the remote start, how you wired it, what alarm it is and what wire you messed with on it.

As Nick said check the brake fluid level/reservoir float switch. If it's ok check the switch on the e-brake handle.

With stock wiring the fuel pump does not run until the engine is cranked.

Ive learned my lesson with having my car in gear and trying to remote start it. I also have the car on jackstands so it is easier to see leaks and get underneath the car.

I did not install the alarm. I do know it is a python alarm system, it was installed by my stepfather. Everything worked before I tore down the car, so it is something I did. I will get pictures of everything that I have touched or played with while doing all of this. Ill get on the ebrake switch as soon as I get to the car.

The pump doesnt run until I have attempted to crank. Once I crank and let the key fall onto the on position, it runs for a few seconds then stops.

 

[Quin]

I just had this exact same issue with the fuel pump power. Replaced both relays, had power in the right spot in the passenger kick panel, car ran with FP and B+ jumped. I just said screw it and rewired the whole thing. It was coming up on my mod to-do list anyway.

My car also has a Python alarm sticker on it. I figured it was somehow related to that and called it a day. I'll rip all that junk out in the spring or summer when it's not 30* out. lol

 

[Nick M]

You probably won't see much by checking power on the small wire, other than what you already know. It is there before you are in the crank position. You need to find out why, probably with the aftermarket contraption.

 

[airhead04]

Ok, I appreciate the help a ton guys. Ive figured out what my alarm problem was. It has a setting in it that if the cars battery is disconnected and reconnected it wants to start the car to do a system check. All I had to do was push the damn brake peddle in!!!! lmao. Noob mistake.

So I attempted start again and the fuel pump is still acting up. I pulling a spark plug and wire and tried to see if I was getting spark. #1 cylinder was the test dummy for this. It showed NO spark. On cranking shouldnt there be spark there???

 

[airhead04]

So I got the car started. The spark issue was just my stupidity -__-'. Everything got fixed until I attempted the 12 volt mod. I wired everything up like I was told to by the write up (haha). I went to jumper the stock relay, and it killed ALL power to my car. I have NOTHING going in or out fromt the car......Any ideas?

EDIT: My stupity = Coils in wrong location -__-'

 

[Nick M]

Jumper? To stop the 12v-9v switch, just disable the signal wire to the relay. No reason to jump anything. If you are doing the 12v mod because of tuning difficulties.

 

[airhead04]

Ok, well its to late now. my car has NO power. Nothing is coming on. Fuses/relays are good. So idk where to start. Any ideas? It lost power when I jumpers the pins on the FP relay. And then the car just lost everything.

 

[airhead04]

Well I figured out my problem......I wasnt the one who did the battery grounds for the relocation kit. A buddy of mine was. He is a smart guy and I trust him. He put a ground wire to each strut tower post. And apparently the mk3 doesnt see that as a good ground -__-. lol SOOOOO I put a bolt through the floor, and BAM! Power is now back. =]