AEM v2 No Start Sync.

rap2chin

rap2chin

The Polack
Aug 30, 2010
86
0
0
Boulder, Colorado, United States
I replaced my starter and the +positive hit the block for about 3 seconds.
Now I have no power to the coils.
All the fuses are good, I got a new CPS so I know that's good, I have 12v goin to the igniter, also I have pulse on all the injectors.
Ohm's on coils test good, but I get nothing goin to the coil power wires, AEM connects to the laptop just fine primes the fuel pump and all, but start sync does not turn on when cranking.
I'm leaning towards the igniter being bad maybe it got cooked when I shorted the wire.
Any help would be great.
 
hvyman

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
12,568
1
0
Fullerton,CA
Igniter is not the problem if the coils are not getting power.

You check all the fuses inside and out?
 
S

Sparky33

New Member
Sep 13, 2010
75
0
0
NJ
that happened one time to me with the positive cable it popped the 100 amp alt fuse if i remember correctly that created a crank but no start situation
 
rap2chin

rap2chin

The Polack
Aug 30, 2010
86
0
0
Boulder, Colorado, United States
All fuses are good. Played with the car today and it started. Im gettin voltage now to all injectors, coils, and what not. But the new starter I put in is a dud. All this happened after the new starter, so im going to exchange it and get a new one. Hopefully it will be solved. Is it possible for it to be some kind of starter wiring issue?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
rap2chin

rap2chin

The Polack
Aug 30, 2010
86
0
0
Boulder, Colorado, United States
Well after extended testing all the electronics are good. The car fired today and I drove it, everything seemed fine once running. But after I shut it off start sync would not sync again and the car wont start again.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
H

Halsupramk3

Member
Apr 4, 2005
444
0
16
Mississippi
the 100 amp fuse looks ok even if blown. but it appears yours is good. check grounds especially wires going to intake manifold ground. check that voltage to aem when starting is 12 v. if at 10 v stuff does not get turned on by aem. sometimes when cranking voltage will drop to aem to 10v if bad grounds and it is programmed to turn off injectors etc it voltage too low.
also check relays .
for coil and injector power the 12v batt power goes from main fusable link and bypasses alt 100 amp fuse with white wire to 30 amp AM2 fuse the wire will split then one wire white red goes to ignition switch am2 and second wire I think is white and red from 30 amp am2 fuse directly to 15a efi fuse to efi main relay. the wire going from 30 amp am2 w/r to am2 switch in key switch becomes ig2 which is a black and orange wire. the b o wire goes directly to the inj resistor pack to power injectors and onto the coil packs to power coils. that is what the black and orange wire is for. when your ignition switch is on power should be to the bo wire at the inj resistor and one wire on each inj. and power to bo wire of coil pack. the aem can not cut the power to the bo wire. only the ignition switch or the mentioned fuses.
if all that makes sense.
hal
 
H

Halsupramk3

Member
Apr 4, 2005
444
0
16
Mississippi
that's always fun to find out late after installation.

I have had bad starters and alternators out of box. now I always test the new starter or alternator right out of the box before I leave the store. installing a faulty new starter in a 1uz is not something I want to do.

hal
 
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