7MGTE Bearing question

[Rollus]

Hi all!

I'm going to rebuilt my 7MGTE next to a BHG:

So the topic is rebuilding my engine and asking for advice.

Pistons are almost new with 12000km on it (stock, and driving like a granma), same for everything that is not cast (bearing, springs, oil pump, etc...). The stuff came from a rebuld kit in uk for say, 5-600$, as OEM replacement aftermarket part, from a part shop (not ebay).

But, the rod bearing has some wear because of some water in oil.

What bearing should I buy? OEM? Anything else better than OEM? I've .
Also, as my engine is apart, would it be a good idea to upgrade some internals?
Would it be a good idea to have some stuff machined? (camshafts?)

Regards,

RolluS

 

[Grandavi]

You cant ask that question without specifying your end goals. If I was to answer.. it would be all over the map.

Whats your final plan with the engine? Any BPU parts going on? (like upgraded turbo/injectors/etc..)

You are going to want to go with ARP Studs (they come with instructions.. follow them EXACTLY)
Use a metal Headgasket.. which will mean lapping the block. Your head has to be prepped properly too.

The 2 above items will prevent you having to worry about a bad headgasket in the future providing you dont overheat or do something silly.

OEM pistons and bearings are very good and hold up well for your purposes. Plus the OEM pistons are built specifically for the engine with some tiny little engineering tidbits like a slightly off center wrist pin...

Your pistons kind of dictate your rods.. your rods kinda dictate your bearings. The engine is probably one of the most simplistic builds providing everything is put together correctly. (meaning... all the little problems are fixed).

Thats all my 2 cents.. I am not a mechanic and there are a lot of people here with far more information than I can throw at you.

Good luck!

 

[Rollus]

Hi, thanks for your answear

You cant ask that question without specifying your end goals. If I was to answer.. it would be all over the map.
Whats your final plan with the engine? Any BPU parts going on? (like upgraded turbo/injectors/etc..)

I plan running ethanol E85, with the help of a mapecu I just bought.
I plan to go as far as stock internals and turbo allow with reliability, for a 10K+ (km) a year. So not much I think.
I'm also thinking about rebuilding my A/T with Transgo shift kit, Precision overhaul kit, and Rabeystos friction and steel modules. That isn't overkill?.
The 2nd gear is sometimes [strike]sleeping[/strike] slipping (I think, a squeeze noise) after kickdown or when pulling hard on an hill.
I haven't choose injectors yet (think that 550/660 will be needed just to run E85). Innovate wideband is on the way.
Turbo may be swapped later, but I haven't think about that yet.

Have you an idea of the power band I can get with the above almost stock setup?

You are going to want to go with ARP Studs (they come with instructions.. follow them EXACTLY)
Use a metal Headgasket.. which will mean lapping the block. Your head has to be prepped properly too.

The 2 above items will prevent you having to worry about a bad headgasket in the future providing you dont overheat or do something silly.

A Cometic MLS gasket and ARP studs are planed. I will choose gasket size according to machining shop measurement. Head and block will be worked.
Should I reduce compression ratio?

OEM pistons and bearings are very good and hold up well for your purposes. Plus the OEM pistons are built specifically for the engine with some tiny little engineering tidbits like a slightly off center wrist pin...

Your pistons kind of dictate your rods.. your rods kinda dictate your bearings. The engine is probably one of the most simplistic builds providing everything is put together correctly. (meaning... all the little problems are fixed).

Thats all my 2 cents.. I am not a mechanic and there are a lot of people here with far more information than I can throw at you.

Good luck!

Thanks

 

[Grandavi]

E85 is unfamiliar for me cause I'm a Canuck. I have read discussions here where you may have to do things to your fuel lines.. But it will give you a lot better knock control.

I just had me engine rebuilt with wiseco pistons and 550's with a 57 trim (car is still in shop). I also went cometic. Should have just used OEM pistons and rings though. They are strong enough and well suited for up to 600 hp.

I also shimmed the oil pump for added oil pressure.

Make sure you replace your valve stem seals if you aren't rebuilding the head.

 

[Rollus]

I've read a lot on E85, I think it is the time for me to work and stop read on this subject.

I love to see brasilian strings, but you mean strong right?

I plan to shim the oil pump too, and go with full flow oil cooling later this year (next oil change).

I will replace all the engine gasket and seals with the expensive Toyota OEM set.

Any idea for the transmission?

 

[Grandavi]

lol.. Fixed my "string" above...

I have an auto transmission, but not familliar with its upgrades, etc.. (My 88 is R154 5 speed, my 90 is auto.. and just a temp MK3 while mine is in the shop)

I think David LeBlanc on this form does valve body upgrades in the approved vendor forum for a very reasonable price that is supposed to solve a lot of issues with the OEM transmission.

Go here and see if this helps a little bit? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?144671-A340E-Valve-Body-Modification-services

***oops.. nm.. his vendor status is currently revoked due to a couple of disputes... is a good read still thought...

 

[Rollus]

Thanks for your answer.
To conclude according to you for my goal the best for internal are OEM parts, and a good head gasket and studs.
The oil system must be efficient and tuned.

For the transmission, I will probably wait a bit, because I will be on a budget instead.

Good luck with your build, I'll open a build thread when on the road.

 

[Zrain25]

When I get mine rebuilt ( next winter. ) I' have 140,000 no knocks I'm putting 550s and afm, and 57 trims. After I rebuild it. My hp goals seem to almost the same as urs and I'm getting the deck and block flattened, new bearings, honed, new Piston rings, maybe a valve job if I have the money, also mhg, arp studs,

I was quoted around 1200 to 1500 to get this done. And they put it all back together

Hope that helps

 

[Rollus]

I missed your post.

Thanks for your feedback and advice

 

[Rollus]

Hi guys,

I'm building a new build thread!
Thanks to grandalvi and Zrain25 for your answear!