7MGE to 7MGTE

Murd

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Dec 19, 2006
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I've read the sticky and have the general idea of what I'm getting in to. I bought a 7MGTE engine with wire harness/ecu/dash cluster. Not sure what year it was out of. Here are a few questions I have. I'm posting this in 7MGE because the car IS a GE currently, if this is the wrong place, if the mods could move it for me I'd appreciate it!

It had a transmission controller, I have a W58, I'm guessing I don't need the controller?

It had an ABS controller, I don't have ABS, same as above?

It came with a LEXUS AFM, and no toyota AFM will I run into issues running it stock with the LEXUS AFM?

It doesn't have a turbo/downpipe, I was looking at getting a 57 trim CT26, I'll be running the W58 transmission with upgraded clutch, since I'll be buying the turbo outright, is there other options that will fit the lessened holding ability of the W58?

Should I stick with the stock dash cluster or go to the turbo cluster? Will this affect how MPH are posted? Gear ratio on the car will be the same, just wasn't sure if the gauge had a difference from N/A to T.

Running the Lexus AFM and stock injectors, will I need a wideband if I don't plan on turning the boost up?

I plan on removing the head and putting a new headgasket in, again I don't plan on running more than 300HP in the future (and will get a wideband if I do) due to the transmission will I need a MHG or will a new one from toyota be sufficient?

Is there a way to check the bottom end while I've got it on the engine stand to see if anything needs to be done there? Do I just take the cap off of the rods and inspect the crank? If it looks ok can I use the same bearings or should I replace those?

I've never rebuilt a motor before in any stretch of the word so any helpful advice would be great. I've done a bit of searching, but admit not a gigantic amount, I will also be searching throughout the build for tips but figured it wouldn't hurt to put this post up as well!

Thanks in advance!

Murd
 

RazoE

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Jun 13, 2006
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nope, all you need is the tachometer..

you might as well keep your OEM voltmeter and get an aftermarket boost gauge, as you might want to run more than 8psi, especially with an upgraded turbo...

to swap tachs, get your cluster out (nothing is hidden, just go at it with a screw driver), pop off the front plastic and black bezel, and flip the cluster over and unscrew the large screws holding in the tach..

it'll come out and the new one will screw right in, it'll be fine and dandy..

keep your original speedo, as the w58 combined with your 4.3 diff (assuming it's stock, and you haven't swapped it out) will read properly (unless you have a weird tire/rim combo)...

also only run the Lexus AFM if you have 550cc injectors or greater, otherwise you'll run lean..
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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You may want to consult a member with more experience in your area, but I would try to do some sort of bottom end rebuild if you have the motor out already unless you know the motor runs very well and doesn't have that many miles on it.

IMO, a large portion of the work required in doing a basic rebuild is pulling the motor. You already have it out, so might as well make it last longer and/or hold more power.

as Razo said, change the tachs and be careful running the Lex AFM.

I'll be doing a similar swap in mine in the near future if all goes as planned. :)
 

Murd

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Dec 19, 2006
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Vancouver, WA.
Thanks for the replies.

I'll order some 550cc injectors then, I only have the Lexus AFM currently so might as well spend the cash on injectors instead of a supra AFM.

Pulling the cluster out should be fine to swap tachs, I'll have to pull the dash to transfer over the GTE wiring anyway, unless the extra items are built into the N/A wiring and just not used. Getting an A-pillar pod was something I planned on doing sooner or later anyway so the boost gauge can go there.

Yes it's still running 4.30 rear end at the moment. I have another 4.30 LSD out of a N/A sport model I'll be putting in, but same/similar ratio so no worries there. No wierd tire/rim combo yet. If I get new larger rims, I'll adjust the tire size so it's close to stock anyway.
 
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Murd

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Dec 19, 2006
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Vancouver, WA.
If I run into any hookups I'll definitely look to the local supra people for help, I hear beer/pizza is the going rate!
 

tbcmorris

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Mar 14, 2007
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PRUVEN PERFORMANCE MILFORD CT
With the 550s do a walbro and the 12 volt mod

Grey or yellow plug ecu...car year you own?

Yes remove a main cap and rod caps to inspect

Mhg or comp headgasket?

No tranny controller

Swap to r154 w58 aren't known for strength

Abs has its own controller
 

gtsfirefighter

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Sep 26, 2006
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Murd;1349170 said:
I'll have to pull the dash to transfer over the GTE wiring anyway, unless the extra items are built into the N/A wiring and just not used.

Are you talking about swapping the huge body harness behind the dash? If not then no need to remove the dash. And what "extra items" are you talking about?

Make sure the engine harness will be compatible with the body harness. What year is the car and what year is the engine harness. It makes a difference.

I've done a body harness swap before and it was a major PITA! Don't do unless you really, really have to.
 

Murd

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Dec 19, 2006
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Vancouver, WA.
tbcmorris;1350073 said:
With the 550s do a walbro and the 12 volt mod

Grey or yellow plug ecu...car year you own?

Yes remove a main cap and rod caps to inspect

Mhg or comp headgasket?

No tranny controller

Swap to r154 w58 aren't known for strength

Abs has its own controller

Grey plug ECU was told 92 on the turbo motor. My car is an 89.

Thanks I'll be inspecting them.

on the Head Gasket, I was wondering if the stock toyota (new) would handle a 57 trim turbo, 550cc injector, 3" exhaust setup, or if I should go with the more machine work, block and head, and go metal.

I don't have a R154 to swap to currently, if that were the case 300hp wouldn't be my goal. Maybe down the road.

I have the ABS controller, but want to make sure I can just unplug it and not use it, car does not have ABS, but the 92 wire harness does.
 

Murd

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Dec 19, 2006
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gtsfirefighter;1350079 said:
Are you talking about swapping the huge body harness behind the dash? If not then no need to remove the dash. And what "extra items" are you talking about?

Make sure the engine harness will be compatible with the body harness. What year is the car and what year is the engine harness. It makes a difference.

I've done a body harness swap before and it was a major PITA! Don't do unless you really, really have to.

Yes I want to know if that is needed to be swapped, the behind the dash harness. Supposedly the turbo is a 92 and my car is an 89. What am I looking for for compatibility?

Extra items, like the 2nd knock sensor and any other items on the engine that the GE didn't have.
 

gtsfirefighter

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Murd;1350095 said:
Yes I want to know if that is needed to be swapped, the behind the dash harness. Supposedly the turbo is a 92 and my car is an 89. What am I looking for for compatibility?

Extra items, like the 2nd knock sensor and any other items on the engine that the GE didn't have.

You're going to be looking for the plugs of the engine harness to be compatiblie with the body harness. 89 is a transitional year and they might not be compatible without some wiring modifications. If you're going to be pulling the harness to do the hg replacement, then check to see if all the NON ecu plugs will plug into the body harness.

Well the gte has a lot of other items the ge doesn't. As long as you got the engine harness, ecu then no worries. The wiring is all taken care of. Like said before, the only thing inside the car you'll need to replace is the tach.


Murd;1350093 said:
on the Head Gasket, I was wondering if the stock toyota (new) would handle a 57 trim turbo, 550cc injector, 3" exhaust setup, or if I should go with the more machine work, block and head, and go metal.

Of course a mhg is always the preferred way to go, but a new OEM hg will be fine for your current power goals as long as it is torqued correctly and you are properly tuned. If you decide on a mhg, just go ahead and have the engine rebuilt. There'll be a lot of precise machining to do on the block and head.
 
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Murd

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Dec 19, 2006
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Vancouver, WA.
Thanks for the info!

Just to make sure I'm clear on things, what I need from the GTE is the engine harness to GTE ECU, and depending on whether or not the rest of the GE's wiring is of the 89+ variety I won't need to change anything but the tach, but if it is of the 89- variety I will have to swap the GTE wiring?

As for the complete rebuild, it's probably out of my budget considering I have to buy the turbo/intercooler and complete exhaust system still to complete the swap. If I decide down the road to increase power I would definitely pull the motor again and do a full rebuild, as well as install a R154, but for now I just want a reliable running GTE with the parts I have available. I really don't need to hit 300hp, that was just a maximum goal I set within the limits of the W58.