7MGE air intake help

ryansmith

New Member
Mar 25, 2012
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New Zealand
Hi I have posted about this before, I'm sure it has been covered but I cannot find anything on this other than things I already know.
If these questions have been answered could someone please link me the forum?

I have a 7mge n/a and the p.o installed a crappy pod filter which has been put on pretty bad (Tin can as an adaptor :nono:)
I am after something good sounding, better for the car and something which looks tidy.

All I would like to know:

Cold air intake VS short ram with your opinion and experience (non turbo, 7mge),
Also I would like to know all the possible option e:g hard piping, hoses, filters, brand all that and which would be best for me with what you know
And what do I do with the AFM in some cases where I have seen the AFM removed

Thanks
 

MPR

John 3:16
Dec 17, 2011
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Toronto, Ontario
You can only remove the AFM if you go with a standalone ecu and switch to a MAF or MAP sensor setup. That is not necessary unless you're building your engine with some significant mods (cams, higher compression, or turbo etc...).

Don't worry about the stock AFM. A stock GE will not outflow it, so it's not that much of a restriction.

If you can find a stock air box from a 7mge, it is a cold air intake to begin with. If you go with an open pod or cone style filter in the engine bay with no heat shield, you will loose power as you will be ingesting the hot engine bay air (it gets quite hot, especially with the intake being on the exhaust side).

So, this is what I did:
p1869612_1.jpg


3" aluminum pipe and new coupling at the throttle body to replace the old one with a sharp bend. Pipe is heat-wrapped to keep the heat out. I also kept the stock air box but removed the front face of it. In leaving the rest of the air box, it still shields effectively from the hot engine bay. Also installed a K&N drop in filter (done after this pic was taken).
 

ryansmith

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Mar 25, 2012
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New Zealand
Awesome thanks for the response, I was thinking about this yesterday I may do hard piping to the AFM then get an after market pod filter and adapter plate. Then make an enclosure for the pod filter.

How does that sound? is there a certain length the piping needs to be? I assume it is 3" pipe through the entire way? and filter size, I'm unsure if size matters for the 7mge?

So from what I see in the photo I'll need a few hose bends, 3" straight alloy pipe at whatever length it needs to be, attach AFM then pod filter, build/buy enclosure or heat shield to suit is this correct?
 

ryansmith

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Mar 25, 2012
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jetjock;1869784 said:
You should keep the stock air box complete as it can flow all the air the engine needs. If you doubt this measuring the pressure drop across it will provide proof.

Is that towards MPR?

As stated in the first post the P.O removed the stock filter and put an after market filter on.
I'm wanting to remove it all and start again, new piping and filter plus enclosure and or heat shield so it's tidy.

I may just go with alloy piping unless someone speaks out before I do this, needs to be done ASAP because I plan to put my new cam covers on any time soon

Thanks
 

MPR

John 3:16
Dec 17, 2011
221
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Toronto, Ontario
jetjock;1869784 said:
You should keep the stock air box complete as it can flow all the air the engine needs. If you doubt this measuring the pressure drop across it will provide proof.

The only reason I opened up mine was so that I could hear it when I step on it. :p
 

MPR

John 3:16
Dec 17, 2011
221
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0
Toronto, Ontario
ryansmith;1869830 said:
Is that towards MPR?

As stated in the first post the P.O removed the stock filter and put an after market filter on.
I'm wanting to remove it all and start again, new piping and filter plus enclosure and or heat shield so it's tidy.

I may just go with alloy piping unless someone speaks out before I do this, needs to be done ASAP because I plan to put my new cam covers on any time soon

Thanks

What ever piping you use, make sure you heat wrap it. It'll get REALLY hot if you don't. Hot air entering engine = less power.
 

ryansmith

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Mar 25, 2012
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MPR;1869835 said:
What ever piping you use, make sure you heat wrap it. It'll get REALLY hot if you don't. Hot air entering engine = less power.

Yeah I will have to think on this, really need someone to tell me exactly what to do, I've only really worked with carburettors
 

ryansmith

New Member
Mar 25, 2012
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New Zealand
It's quite hard with where I live to find factory, well even after market parts for my supra. In all my time I have only seen three other mk3's on the road.

I'll check out eBay ect, it's just I'd like to do it sooner rather than later
 

Typhoon

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Jun 30, 2007
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No point shielding the intake ducting from heat, they remain cooler than the cast aluminium Y pipe and upper intake. If you want to cool intake charge, fabricate a phenolic spacer for lower intake and put a heat shield between Y pipe and rockers.
 

ryansmith

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Mar 25, 2012
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Typhoon;1870216 said:
No point shielding the intake ducting from heat, they remain cooler than the cast aluminium Y pipe and upper intake. If you want to cool intake charge, fabricate a phenolic spacer for lower intake and put a heat shield between Y pipe and rockers.

phenolic spacer as is a gasket for the induction manifold ? sorry I don't know much about induction upgrades.. bare with me haha
 

MPR

John 3:16
Dec 17, 2011
221
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0
Toronto, Ontario
Typhoon;1870216 said:
No point shielding the intake ducting from heat, they remain cooler than the cast aluminium Y pipe and upper intake. If you want to cool intake charge, fabricate a phenolic spacer for lower intake and put a heat shield between Y pipe and rockers.

For sure. That would make big difference and wouldn't require too much work... Now you've got me thinking... lol

ryansmith;1870223 said:
phenolic spacer as is a gasket for the induction manifold ? sorry I don't know much about induction upgrades.. bare with me haha

It's basically a composite gasket that's a little thicker than a regular gasket (2-5mm), designed to resist heat transfer.
 

ryansmith

New Member
Mar 25, 2012
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New Zealand
Okay cool I now have a pretty stable idea on what I will be doing...

3" 45 degree hose, 3" alloy pipe to AFM, new filter, phenolic spacer?
 

MPR

John 3:16
Dec 17, 2011
221
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0
Toronto, Ontario
ryansmith;1870312 said:
Okay cool I now have a pretty stable idea on what I will be doing...

3" 45 degree hose, 3" alloy pipe to AFM, new filter, phenolic spacer?

Don't forget to wrap the pipe and shield the filter (if you want to do everything to keep the IAT's down).
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,815
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Thousand Oaks, CA
I have monitored IAT during driving and it quickly goes well above ambient even with the stock cold air intake. The cause is the AFM itself getting hot from the exhaust manifold (and all the downstream stuff as well as mentioned in this thread). You would really need to insulate the whole system from air box on to see any improvement in temps.
 

MPR

John 3:16
Dec 17, 2011
221
0
0
Toronto, Ontario
^Definitely.

I think the best solution is to use an intake manifold that doesn't cross over the top of the engine to the exhaust side, along with a thermal shield gasket. Unfortunately there aren't any low-cost answers to this, so most of us must do the best we can with what we have. ;)