Well the time has come to rebuild my 88 Supra's 7M-GTE. The bottom end bearings are worn out and needing replacing so i might as well rebuild the whole engine while its pulled. The thing is i've never worked on an engine and don't really want to pay someone else to do it. I feel it would be a great learning experience for a 17 year old who has nothing else to do lol. I plan on doing it myself in my schools shop. I'll have about 3 hours a day to work on and ill have all the tools and resources i'll need (hopefully lol). Well first on my list is what should i replace? Gaskets, Bearings, Rods? How much would all the parts run me? The engine has just over 100,000 miles on it. A guide or list would be very helpful.
7M-GTE Rebuild
- Thread starter EthanMKIII
- Start date
do research...this info is very easy to find on this website.....this topic gets beat to death....
EthanMKIII;1212345 said:
Well my only bit of advise I will give you is this.
What ever you have budgeted. Triple it and you might get close for learning. No, I am not joking.
be sure to rebuild the oil squirters and if you use aftermarket piston be ware some don't have the holes drilled for the squirters so may need some machine work for that. Buy a good headgaskey and ARP bolts and studs for the whole build, a lil costly but worth it in the end, do it once and do it right as I like to say.
May as well have the head ported to while its off and rebuild the valvetrain
May as well have the head ported to while its off and rebuild the valvetrain
it is well worth the few hundred dollars to have the competent machine shop that does the work put it together (at least the bottom end).
Let the machine shop assemble the short block. It will be the best $200 you ever spent, trust me 
OEM rods will be fine if not going for much extra power, they make over sized bearings for a reason. Are you going to have it bored over?
A new OEM oil pump (not eCrap pump) and oil hose from DM is also a safe bet. Have deck blocked for MHG along with the head getting rebuilt. Use ARP's to hold everything together. This should get you started.
Also plan to spend north of $1.5k for just a basic rebuild and this is with you doing the larbor.
OEM rods will be fine if not going for much extra power, they make over sized bearings for a reason. Are you going to have it bored over?
A new OEM oil pump (not eCrap pump) and oil hose from DM is also a safe bet. Have deck blocked for MHG along with the head getting rebuilt. Use ARP's to hold everything together. This should get you started.
Also plan to spend north of $1.5k for just a basic rebuild and this is with you doing the larbor.
92nsx;1212669 said:Let the machine shop assemble the short block. It will be the best $200 you ever spent, trust me
OEM rods will be fine if not going for much extra power, they make over sized bearings for a reason. Are you going to have it bored over?
A new OEM oil pump (not eCrap pump) and oil hose from DM is also a safe bet. Have deck blocked for MHG along with the head getting rebuilt. Use ARP's to hold everything together. This should get you started.
Also plan to spend north of $1.5k for just a basic rebuild and this is with you doing the larbor.
Basic as in OEM everything? No worries i will get a MHG and Arps im not a dumbass lol. I've heard Clevien 77 or w/e make good bearings anyone know where i can get some?
EthanMKIII;1212945 said:
most the vendors on here sell them......SIP im sure has them..
clevite 77
depends on the horsepower you are looking for..... my rear main started to leak so i figured i have $2000$ i'll just build a 7mgte, that way i can get rid of my turboed 7mge... i've already spent $2500$ and i still have to get all the block work done.
you should plan on spending a lot of money!!
you should plan on spending a lot of money!!
slowpra na-t;1212968 said:
Well all i want is really just a stock engine. OEM parts can't be that bad......
i have rebuilt a 7mgte for my buddy for about $900. thats using the old rods and pistons. only buying gaskets, bearings, arps, cometic head gasket and rings.
Wills7MGTE;1212602 said:
If you mounted the squirters in the pistons, then what did you use to plug the holes in your block?
Dont buy the HG untill you get the stuff back from the machine shop, you wont know untill then how much they shaved off, and how thick you should go with for the HG.
It could be done for cheap, but its easier now to replace little things that dont cost much, but the price will add up fast.
if you rebuild it stock now im sure youll be kicking yourself in the nuts later, when you wanted it faster and already spent all this money for no reason. just my opinionEthanMKIII;1212971 said:
boostaddict;1213474 said:
Ur probly right but really do i need to upgrade the stock internals for 350~400Rwhp?
400whp is the beginning. It too will get boring, i promise. Stock has lasted above this level, and not lasted as well. Your tune and choice of compromise between saftey and margin of error Vs. power will test 20 year old parts.
Do it once, do it right. From the countless list of "ohh shit new rebuild is fubar" threads learn from others mistakes. Do not put this together yourself with out the understanding that learning is great but EXPENSIVE (like figgie said).
Do it once, do it right. From the countless list of "ohh shit new rebuild is fubar" threads learn from others mistakes. Do not put this together yourself with out the understanding that learning is great but EXPENSIVE (like figgie said).
im doing a stock rebuild for the same reasons, but i also have another block i have had machined for MHG and bored and honed. stock will be ok for now, but they are right, it wont last for long. you will want your kill list to include some "special ones" for those sh!t eating grin wins!!
Well i planned this car to be my starter supra lol keep the 7M, 57trim, 550cc, Lexus Afm, supporting mods get her to around 400Hp. If i ever want more power i would build a 89+ 2Jz.
Last year i've built my 7m. It had about 150 000km. Machining the block and head (3 angle valve job), shim the oil pump,polished the crank, and a small rehone. Also went with hks 1.2mhg and arp studs. i barely had any ridge on the cylinders and my pistons had a little amount of carbon but still looked new. It cost me 1500$ for machining and parts did all the work in my garage. My engine was not even worn out like it should have been. So i used all my stock internals back. Running the maft pro now didn't dyno it yet but i know its well over 300whp. i beat the car everyday and it last me. It was a good experience.
Just letting you know when u do rebuild your engine pay attention and check everything over and over again until you are satisfied. Change your rad if its too old. I didn't find the block hard to build. I found putting the valves in the cylinder head and compressing to put on the keepers a bitch to do. Follow your manual except for the torquing of the head gasket. Its good to have a good amount of mechanic experience. I'm a an auto tech so i had all the tools and all the info. So just be care full if you are doing it your self. It can be done. I did it and this is my 1st motor i ever rebuilt. Only thing i wasn't happy with my motor was the compression of all the cylinders. #1-175psi, #2-163psi, #3-190psi, #4- 180psi, #5-170psi, #6-185psi. There a bit high because i went with the 1.2mgh. The uneven part I'm guessing maybe the machining work. Don't know for sure. One thing i can tell u is even before the turbo comes on the motor is beefy. I had to go with different heat range on the plugs and copper plugs. I have no problem idling wise or driving wise.
JUST MAKE SURE YOU TUNE IT RIGHT AND HAVE ENOUGH FUEL.
Good luck
Just letting you know when u do rebuild your engine pay attention and check everything over and over again until you are satisfied. Change your rad if its too old. I didn't find the block hard to build. I found putting the valves in the cylinder head and compressing to put on the keepers a bitch to do. Follow your manual except for the torquing of the head gasket. Its good to have a good amount of mechanic experience. I'm a an auto tech so i had all the tools and all the info. So just be care full if you are doing it your self. It can be done. I did it and this is my 1st motor i ever rebuilt. Only thing i wasn't happy with my motor was the compression of all the cylinders. #1-175psi, #2-163psi, #3-190psi, #4- 180psi, #5-170psi, #6-185psi. There a bit high because i went with the 1.2mgh. The uneven part I'm guessing maybe the machining work. Don't know for sure. One thing i can tell u is even before the turbo comes on the motor is beefy. I had to go with different heat range on the plugs and copper plugs. I have no problem idling wise or driving wise.
JUST MAKE SURE YOU TUNE IT RIGHT AND HAVE ENOUGH FUEL.
Good luck
im also planning on rebuilding my 7M soon this month or the next(whenever i get the money together) but i just recently priced my parts for $1300, that includes probe pistons, eagle rods, full gasket set, oil pump, and bearings. i figure after machine work and all it will be about $2000 considering im doing all the work myself. just sharing my budget, i figure i can boost as much as i want with this setup but im starting small (stock ct at 12psi) and just want room to grow
just a forewarning about "having a machine shop assemble your engine is the best $200 ever"... errr...
i had 22 out of 24 vavle stem seals torn when i pulled my head on a motor with less than 2000miles... mind you i paid $500 for a valve job...
so i dont know, i have faith in my own work only now. Or if you have the tools to measure your bores and measure the gaps, then just double check it all after you get it back.
i had 22 out of 24 vavle stem seals torn when i pulled my head on a motor with less than 2000miles... mind you i paid $500 for a valve job...
so i dont know, i have faith in my own work only now. Or if you have the tools to measure your bores and measure the gaps, then just double check it all after you get it back.