2JZ NA-T into MK3
- Thread starter jmcboost
- Start date
You're correct on the fuel lines, the screw-in is the feed, push on is the return.
I'm not running an oil cooler right now, may at some point in the future though. I've heard the stock oil cooler isn't good for p/s, can't remember why though.
I'm not running an oil cooler right now, may at some point in the future though. I've heard the stock oil cooler isn't good for p/s, can't remember why though.
Alright. So if you look at the pic of the new feed line hanging down, you can see that the end of it has a rubber hose on it and not a threaded part. How do I attatch this to the stock feed line with the threads? It looks like I may need a different hose??
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I just tapped out the stock fuel rail per the "Hottscennessy 2JZ NA-T MK3 SWAP standardization guidelines". It was easy!!!!! Thanks again for the help Scott!!! Pic Below. Now Scott, what should I do with all the stock return stuff hanging off of the fuel rail?
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looks great
For the return, if you have a FPR kit, it comes with a braided line for the return, instead of having a fitting at the end it has a tube, you shove that tube inside of the stock rubber return line and put a clamp on it.
For the return, if you have a FPR kit, it comes with a braided line for the return, instead of having a fitting at the end it has a tube, you shove that tube inside of the stock rubber return line and put a clamp on it.
So, I think I figured something out that I did not know. I guess the AFPR is on the "return" side of the rail? And if that is the case then I need to connect the stuff hanging off of the rail in the pic below to the stock feed line? If this is correct, what is the best way to connect that to the stock feed line?
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AFPR goes on the return side (front of the motor from the factory).
The dangling stuff is your fuel pulsation damper. That attaches to the feed side. It can be bypassed and the line can be ran directly to the rail, or it can be left in place. Leave it in and your idle will be smoother, but it's said to become a restriction somewhere around the 500hp mark. Driftmotion makes a bypass kit.
The stock oil cooler doesn't flow enough for P/S.
The dangling stuff is your fuel pulsation damper. That attaches to the feed side. It can be bypassed and the line can be ran directly to the rail, or it can be left in place. Leave it in and your idle will be smoother, but it's said to become a restriction somewhere around the 500hp mark. Driftmotion makes a bypass kit.
The stock oil cooler doesn't flow enough for P/S.
Good info. Thanks for the help. Next thing is trying to get the intercooler mounted. I have some pics of where it would be easy to mount ( no cutting front bumper support or moving too much around) but it will sit only 5" from the ground:3d_frown: . So is this OK, or should I do some moding to get it up further?
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What size is the IC? Looks like the same one I have (24x12x3). Mine fit up a lot more snug than that. The outlets are just below the frame rails. The only thing I had to do was remove the coolant tank. The P/S cooler should sit higher than that.
jmcboost;1021963 said:
So 24x12x3 core, plus the end tanks. Leave it to the eBay crowd to start including the end tanks in the measurement to make you think you're getting something bigger.
My overflow is currently on the bench. I think I'll opt for a smaller battery and put it there. I had a 18" core intercooler before. All I had to do to fit that was heat up the coolant tank and squish it in some. I think it interferes too much now, but it may still be possible.
Got the engine and tranny mated together. I put the clutch fork in and wanted to make sure it looks right. It snapped right in but I can pull it out fairly easily. Is this correct. I remember it was kind of a pain to get it out when I first took everything apart.
My second queation is, do I need any other covers for the tranny to block everything off? I made one that covers the from of the bellhousing were you can see the flywheel.
My second queation is, do I need any other covers for the tranny to block everything off? I made one that covers the from of the bellhousing were you can see the flywheel.
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Mine slides out easily too, held up 200mi so far. You also need covers on the sides where the inspection holes are. I got some off of a member here for $30, could probably also make 'em.
OK, so here are some more progress pics. I am getting there slowly but surely.
My only question for now is in the first pic you can see the injector wiring that I am going to be running to the stinger. Is the thing I circled the resistor pack (thats plugged into the injector harness)? Do i need this if I am using a stinger? And if not I can just take the resistor pack and wiring out of the equation right??
My only question for now is in the first pic you can see the injector wiring that I am going to be running to the stinger. Is the thing I circled the resistor pack (thats plugged into the injector harness)? Do i need this if I am using a stinger? And if not I can just take the resistor pack and wiring out of the equation right??
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Wow.. that is a CLEAN engine bay!
Resistor pack:
What injectors are you running? If they are low imp. injectors leave the resistor pack as is.
If they are high imp. you can remove the resistor pack and run the 12v wire going into the resistor pack to each injector.. bypassing the stock resistor pack.
The good thing about the stinger is that you can run either high or low imp. injectors using it.
Resistor pack:
What injectors are you running? If they are low imp. injectors leave the resistor pack as is.
If they are high imp. you can remove the resistor pack and run the 12v wire going into the resistor pack to each injector.. bypassing the stock resistor pack.
The good thing about the stinger is that you can run either high or low imp. injectors using it.
edit: when ahead and moved my stuff from his thread and found the one that i normally update
ps: your car looks great
ps: your car looks great
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