2jz died on the highway, wont start again

steveyblack

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Jun 21, 2007
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well it was the first nice night since I broke in my clutch so I decided to do a quick pull on the highway to see how she pulls. Anyway, im in third and im pulling up untill 5k or so then i hear a loud POP, almost like a IC pipe popped off. Instead, the car died and I coasted the the side of the road. The car would not start again, it cranks and cranks and cranks but no start. With the throttle open, the car was able to chug a couple of times but thats the best it did. Anyone have any ideas on what it can be? Ill be pulling codes tomorrow. Any ideas on where to start looking?
 

suprahero

naughty by nature
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One night I was doing some not so legal street racing against a buddy of mine's built cobra and my car did the same thing, but without the loud pop. For some reason me efi fuse decided it didn't want to play any longer. Luckily for me, I always carry around an extra twenty or so fuses.

Check your fuses, fuel pump relay, and codes.

best Slingblade voice here...."It ain't got no gas"
 

steveyblack

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well I know the car is getting fuel, the fuel pump is wired on a switch. The only code i got was 78 :aigo: its not even a code. Maybe i desiphering it wrong? If I am, ill post a video of it later to make sure what I saw was right.

Edit, I found this

Code 78 Fuel pump control signal fault

is that because I have my pump on a switch? and could this cause my car to die and not start?
 

steveyblack

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Well timing is in check, pulled my plugs and they were a little dark for 500 miles. I changed out the ECU and did a ground check. No luck.

Something that struck my mind, The crank trigger wheel(sprocket looking thing) came off when the engine was out on the stand, but I heated it up and pressed it back on there. Maybe the crank trigger was not on straight enough and bringing it the upper RPM's brought it to the max and caused it to fall off again? just a though. Ill have pics/videos up soon
 

steveyblack

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Poodles;1462001 said:
Fuel pump on a switch? Why?

And yes, if you lose timing you're not going to get spark or fuel...

Still in the process of putting the battery into the trunk, so for now the pump was on a switch.
 

Dirgle

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Mar 30, 2005
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Poodles;1462001 said:
Fuel pump on a switch? Why?

Sadly most 2JZ swaps are wired this way. The 2JZ ECU uses a separate fuel computer unlike the 7M. So you either wire in the fuel computer, a difficult and expensive process. You source a RPM activated switch. Finding a suitable had been proving difficult and expensive. Or the easiest and most unsafe method has been to just wire it into a switch. Even the harness Dr Tweak used to build used a switch. Though last I heard he was attempting to find a viable solution, not sure if he has though.
 

steveyblack

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Dirgle;1462022 said:
Sadly most 2JZ swaps are wired this way. The 2JZ ECU uses a separate fuel computer unlike the 7M. So you either wire in the fuel computer, a difficult and expensive process. You source a RPM activated switch. Finding a suitable had been proving difficult and expensive. Or the easiest and most unsafe method has been to just wire it into a switch. Even the harness Dr Tweak used to build used a switch. Though last I heard he was attempting to find a viable solution, not sure if he has though.

Im just going to do the 12V mod.

Im going to be tearing the front timing cover off tomorrow to see if that is my problem.
 

steveyblack

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Dirgle;1462062 said:
No point to it on a swaped 2JZ, the whole ciucuit is bypassed so the system continuously operates at 12V.

For some reason the pump wouldnt prime when connected like stock. Either way im going 12V mod, new wires(10g) instead of the 22 year old wires in the car now.
 

steve_mk3

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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I think I read in your build thread that you had replaced the cams. The other cams had rust on them. Anyway this is connected? Something like a stuck valve in #3 and #6 or something happend during the cam replacement?

Jut throwing it out there- I could be way off.
 

steveyblack

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steve_mk3;1464315 said:
I think I read in your build thread that you had replaced the cams. The other cams had rust on them. Anyway this is connected? Something like a stuck valve in #3 and #6 or something happend during the cam replacement?

Jut throwing it out there- I could be way off.

Anything is a possibility till I find out what exactly happened.
 

steveyblack

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Poodles;1464556 said:
On the cams, yes. Meaning the valves won't fully close causing them to get burnt.

well when I checked the clearances, they were all within spec when dry, Was I suppose to do it when lubed?