1jz black smoke and bad idle

chris_2jz

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Feb 17, 2009
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To summerize what happen in a nut shell, i washed my car, did NOT washed my engine bay at all, i drove the car for about 20 mins and it shut off when i got to a red light and hasnt ran the same since. The problem im having is my car is blowing nothing but black smoke and it wont idle by itself, when i let go of the throttle if shuts off. I have fuel pressure about 35psi, I sent my ecu out to aaron at driftmotion and he replaced my caps, my friend with a working mk4 stopped by and i used his map sensor and ignitor pack and nothing them fixed my problem. I also removed the intercooler piping at the throttle body in case i had a boost/air leak but no change it does the same thing. the only thing i havent checked and thats because i dont know which 02 sensor the 1jz uses is the 02 sensor i havent checked it out. I did a compression test and i have 180psi in all 6 pistons if that helps at all??? I pulled the spark plugs and all of them smell of gas. So i am at a crossroad and would love some help so if anyone has any ideas or options for me please feel free in leave your input

So to summerize things ive done/tried/noticed
-Caps replaced on Ecu through driftmotion
-used mk4 map sensor
-used mk4 ignitor pack
-have NOT tried the 02 sensor (dont know which to use)
-180psi in all 6 cambers
-Fuel pressure regulator is at 35psi
-removed intercooler piping at the throttle body
-spark plugs smell of gas
-black smoke
-wont idle by itself (it will shut off)

any help will be greatly appreciated thanks in advance!!!
 

destrux

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May 19, 2010
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Have you tried just resetting the ECU? I had washed my car once and the water caused a misfire, which made the ecu add way too much fuel, and when things dried out the car was running horrible. Clearing the ecu fuel trims fixed it for me. Just disconnect the battery for a minute and that will do it. If that does fix it, you probably have bad coil packs like I did, which is what caused my problem to begin with.
 

chris_2jz

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Feb 17, 2009
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Yea I already cleared my codes, cars been sitting for like 2 weeks waiting for ecu to come back from DM. I can try the coil packs but it seems unlikely that all six would go out, only reason I say that is because the car acts as if they all went out I cant even get it to rev pass 1-1.3k when I go WOT (in neutral, car is undrivable) I takes forever to reach 500+rpms

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chris_2jz

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Feb 17, 2009
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Albert;1768788 said:
seems like a bad map sensor? or bad wiring to the map sensor?

I was thinking the same thing but the wiring looks fine plus hasnt been touched. Also I tired a map sensor a mk4 and it did the same thing. I mean if I can find someone else with a map ill give it another shot. Also I forgot to mention that I have a hks fuel cut defender (came already installed with car) I havent touched it in a while (replaced frayed wire 5 months ago). I don't know if that would play a factor?

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Albert

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I had the same issuse, and turned out the vacuum port to the map popped off. it does the same when I forgot to plug it in once..
 

chris_2jz

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Albert;1768801 said:
I had the same issuse, and turned out the vacuum port to the map popped off. it does the same when I forgot to plug it in once..

You talking about that hose that goes from the map to manifold? Yea I checked it yesterday, connected or not it does the same thing

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Albert

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Then that has to be your problem no? If you unplug the map sensor, or even the vacuum port, and there isnt a change...then that may be your problem. Once I unpluged mine it would run like crap, so rich, black smoke, wouldnt idle.

Even if you had your intercoller piping off, the car will till run with no problems what so ever, its map based. Hell for the first month of driving mine, I put a filter on the throttle body to drive it to get my IC piping done.

Verify that the sensor is getting the correct grounds, powers, and signals. Maybe there is a short in your harness somewhere?
 

Radial

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Aug 20, 2011
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i'm guessing there's water down the sparkplug holes, shorting the spark (or cracked plugs, as they actually can crack if suddenly cooled down while they are old..ie a Watersplash), OR your O2 is somehow clogged/shorted to ground.

o2 is actually measurable.... there should be "Out of limit" resistance between Sensing-wire and the Heating wires+ Ground
Same thing between Sparkplug leadwire (top of sparkplug) to Engine ground.
If you get measurable readings here (Mega ohms, Kilo ohms), things are shorted to ground by water or dirt, probably due to cracks.

After running alot of black smoke (super-rich), the sparkplugs get clogged heavily... its is a good idea to replace them, at least clean them. If there's Irdium/Platinum plugs in there as well, then you probably have to replace them anyway as they get suicidal when running rich, and you cant clean them without damaging the Irdium/Platinum core... JZ engines are huge fans of the copper core NGK BKR6ES (stock plug) and BKR7ES (BPU-plug).

Good luck!
 

chris_2jz

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So check the connection to the map sensor, check my o2 sensor and check my plugs for cracks.... Iight ill give them a shot when I get home thanks guys for the advice ill keep you updated. Do any of you guys know which o2 sensor I will need for my 1j If I end up needing it?

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Albert

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chris_2jz;1768886 said:
So check the connection to the map sensor, check my o2 sensor and check my plugs for cracks.... Iight ill give them a shot when I get home thanks guys for the advice ill keep you updated. Do any of you guys know which o2 sensor I will need for my 1j If I end up needing it?

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not sure, Never ran the stock o2. I ran the LC-1, and ran one of the inputs to the stock ECU to emulate the narrow band signal
 

Radial

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chris_2jz;1768886 said:
Do any of you guys know which o2 sensor I will need for my 1j If I end up needing it?

You could go down to the local Toyota-dealer and just order the stock one, probably the simplest.
OR you will have to buy a 3-wire universal one, and weld in a Lambda-nut into your exhaust-pipe somewhere, and splice those o2-wires into your current connector/wires.
 

chris_2jz

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Feb 17, 2009
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Radial;1768991 said:
You could go down to the local Toyota-dealer and just order the stock one, probably the simplest.

Do you know for which car or part number? I have a 1jz


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IBoughtASupra

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89 Mustang 5.0 02 Sensor.

Three wires. There will be two black wires, those are for the heater. The signal wire is white.

Splice these into the stock O2 sensor plug. Avoid cutting up your harness, take the old plug off the old 02 sensor and wire the Mustang wires to it. The blue wire off the stock plug is the signal, that goes to the white wire from the Mustang O2.

Keep in mind the colors maybe be different depending which brand Mustang O2 sensor you buy. One thing that is common is that you will have two wires that are the same color but one will be a different color, that odd wire is the signal wire.
 

chris_2jz

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Feb 17, 2009
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IBoughtASupra;1769010 said:
89 Mustang 5.0 02 Sensor.

Three wires. There will be two black wires, those are for the heater. The signal wire is white.

Splice these into the stock O2 sensor plug. Avoid cutting up your harness, take the old plug off the old 02 sensor and wire the Mustang wires to it. The blue wire off the stock plug is the signal, that goes to the white wire from the Mustang O2.

Keep in mind the colors maybe be different depending which brand Mustang O2 sensor you buy. One thing that is common is that you will have two wires that are the same color but one will be a different color, that odd wire is the signal wire.

Thanks man Its a lot easier when stuff like this is simplified ill let you guys know the update when I get a chance damn job is keeping busy!

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chris_2jz

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Feb 17, 2009
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IBoughtASupra;1769010 said:
89 Mustang 5.0 02 Sensor.

Three wires. There will be two black wires, those are for the heater. The signal wire is white.

Splice these into the stock O2 sensor plug. Avoid cutting up your harness, take the old plug off the old 02 sensor and wire the Mustang wires to it. The blue wire off the stock plug is the signal, that goes to the white wire from the Mustang O2.

Keep in mind the colors maybe be different depending which brand Mustang O2 sensor you buy. One thing that is common is that you will have two wires that are the same color but one will be a different color, that odd wire is the signal wire.

I have a question about this.... I have a lamda nut at the end of my downpipe where it meets my exhaust my question is will that o2 sensor work way down there or will I have to go get another lambda nut welded into my downpipe near the turbo.... Any input?

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chris_2jz

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Feb 17, 2009
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Ok so I checked my ecu for any CEL and I found 12 and 21. The problem for 12 is rpm signal and 21 is o2 sensor. With 21 I can just replace the o2 sensor right? And im lost with 12 any input?

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Radial

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Nice thing theese Error Codes. They indicate that you have some "broken circiuts" in your wiring; IE the o2 does not generate an error-code before you actually unplug the o2 sensor... :)

- RPM is the crank trigger sensor... down at the frond end of the engine... behind the crank pulley. COULD be just water in the sensor connector though. as i can remember, the connection is just next to the o2 connector on the front turbo... But i run a JDM 1JZ with stock wiring, the US 1JZ could be a bit different on the wiring side.
Now, with theese TWO errorcodes, 12 and 21, with both having their connectors at the SAME area, you must have some sort of wiring-issue down there....

- o2 is just to replace yes... as long as the wiring is ok.
 

chris_2jz

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Feb 17, 2009
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Radial;1769426 said:
Nice thing theese Error Codes. They indicate that you have some "broken circiuts" in your wiring; IE the o2 does not generate an error-code before you actually unplug the o2 sensor... :)

- RPM is the crank trigger sensor... down at the frond end of the engine... behind the crank pulley. COULD be just water in the sensor connector though. as i can remember, the connection is just next to the o2 connector on the front turbo... But i run a JDM 1JZ with stock wiring, the US 1JZ could be a bit different on the wiring side.
Now, with theese TWO errorcodes, 12 and 21, with both having their connectors at the SAME area, you must have some sort of wiring-issue down there....

- o2 is just to replace yes... as long as the wiring is ok.

Ok so heres the update.... I replaced my spark plugs with copper tops cause my old ones were black black then I for some reason was curious about my hks fcd (came with car I didn't install.... If it was up to me i'd remove it but I need a write up for it) any who I turned the dial to 12 (norm) and it made me idle better and was able to drive it but it's back firing hard in the 3k range and my black smoke went away. Also I have new cel codes 21(o2 sensor) and 31 (air flow meter signal) so I know I need a o2 sensor but im kinda lost at the air flow signal, is that related to the o2 sensor? Thanks in advance. Also thanks for all help so far guys i've made great progress thanks to everyone

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IBoughtASupra

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Airflow signal is the MAP sensor. Check the Map sensor plug with the ignition on.

It should have five volts and a ground and one wire won't have a reading, which will be the signal wire. You will have to check that wire's continuity back to the ECU.