1987 MK3 Resto

Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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With the manifolds off and the most of the accessories off, it was time to remove the head. I was under the impression for some reason that I needed a 14mm hex head bolt. I drove to richlins, the biggest they had was 10mm. The guy there suggested I try an automotive place in north branford, they didn't have it either. So I went to home depot in east haven, they didn't have 14mm either. While I was in home depot I did a quick google search to double check and it turns out I needed a 10mm. So I went back to Richlin's because they had the single 10mm hex head socket but it was on 3/8" drive. Hopefully when its time to reinstall I can find a 1/2" drive or an adapter because my torque wrench is 1/2".

There are 14 bolts that hold the head on, and they need to be removed in a certain order and in 3 passes. I followed the TSRM and started by breaking the lock and doing about an eighth of a turn. After the third pass of that most were loose and on the 4th pass I took them all off.

Did I have a blown head gasket?
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Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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Quick update, Just got it back from the machine shop. Started to reassemble! Took these with my new camera, Canon Eos 7d. Placing a order with Driftmotion today, Happy 4th everyone

Prepped for paint
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and painted


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Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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So I ordered a bunch of stuff from Driftmotion. I also came across a very nice looking steering wheel from a member here and I just got it today. I had some time after work so I busted out my steering wheel puller and the old one came right off.

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And with the new-to-me wheel in place

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It makes a world of difference I'd say.

Then I got the itch to do some more. I went to my parts bin and looked for the oil squirters. I soaked them in some degreaser and thorougly washed them and rinsed them out. I then filled up my air compressor and blew them all inside and out. New banjo bolts from DM.

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The squirters were a piece of cake to install. I got the TSRM out to make sure I torqued them to spec.

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Then I got bored and said screw it I'll put the crank in. So I put the bearings and studs in. Thinking about it i thought it wasnt a good idea to put the studs in before the crank, so I took them out and put the crank in then the studs. So much time wasted taking these studs in and out.

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Next up I will be plastigauging the crank and making sure the clearances check out. After that I'll be sizing the piston rings. For some reason I don't feel like doing that.
 

Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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Well I got my crank installed and attempted sizing the piston rings, that was a bitch of a job, so I'm taking it to a machine shop in town and having them do it. The guy said it should only be around $100 and take a day or two, since its in my price range that's what I will be doing.

In the mean time I wanted to install my driftmotion power steering High Pressure hose. Install was super easy. Take off the banjo bolt from the pump and the rack, put the fittings on that come with the hose, with new copper crush washers, and attach the stainless steel hose.

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Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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Well I got all my pistons in. I ended up taking them to a machine shop locally and having him size them for me. Money well spent since it would have taken me 20+ hours to do it at the rate I was going. While putting the rods on the pistons, one of the wrist pin clips snapped out, flew an hit me in the tooth, those things are dangerous, I could have easily been hit in the eye, hell I was concerned it cracked my tooth.

I got the upgraded oil pipe from Driftmotion. Install was pretty easy. I'm just worried that it didnt screw it in enough. I met some resistance on the block portion very quickly.
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Then I started to put the timing cover on. I got out my gasket kit and put on the gaskets for the water pump, and the two gaskets for the timing case, there were 2 sides to it. I hope I didnt forget any
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With the new oil seals on, and the gaskets for the timing case I slipped it on, and surprisingly had all the bolts still. Knock on wood, I haven't had any missing yet...
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Then I slipped on the oil pump drive gear, and timing belt drive gear onto the crank. With a couple taps the crank drive gear slipped right on. Much easier than I thought, Sure as hell didn't come off that easy. I put my old belt on to mock it up since its been a while. I could use a new tensioner, guess I forgot to order one in my last Driftmotion order, oh well, gotta do another for a clutch I'm thinking. How tight should the tensioner bolt be? If I tighten too much, it doesn't pivot.
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I also got an oil filter relocation kit. I painted the oil filter mount red, thought it might contrast well with the block being blue. Not sure I like it or not, but at least the parts look clean.
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My pistons are all numbered and in their respective cylinders.
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Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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I got the Timing cover and waterpump on. Its amazing finding all the bolts and how poorly I labeled them when I was taking this apart. Half the fun is finding the bags with strange labels, I did my best to give them an accurate description but I’m not great. I did manage to have all the bolts for the water pump, and also the timing cover. I replaced the crank seal and oil pump seal with the new ones. It’s also a fresh waterpump and gasket. It sickens me to think what this looked like when it was all dirty.

Also, Y U NO LIEK MY UPDATEZ

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Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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Kind of got the timing belt on. This is just a mock up, I ended up ordering a new timing belt tensioner pulley. It was in really poor condition, but I did get a the oil drive gear, and timing belt drive gear on. Not too much trouble. You can also see the oil filter relocation kit. I’m not sure if I am going to run this just yet, possibly later once I have the engine running.
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tfhorst

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Nov 2, 2011
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pittsburgh
Don't listen to these "not bad" guys. That is a great find!! I just picked one with the same leather and I am learing to bring it back. I mean come on leather. And rust on these doesn't seen to me a problem here in pgh. I got the most rusted one I have seen and it needs new from fenders and that is it. Freaking awsome find man!
 

Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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Put the ARP headstuds in. The studs all have allen heads on the side that should be up. This way when you want to remove them it is easy enough. I made this mistake and had to change many. With these in it should make it easier to set the head on.

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Smartparts

New Member
Dec 14, 2010
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CT
I set the head on. Without the Cams in it wasn’t too heavy. I used a rubber mallet to give it some help in setting. Next I’ll have to get the cams in

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Smartparts

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Dec 14, 2010
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Mmm being organized. Not really, but I did try to keep the shims as organized as possible before I cleaned them up and installed them in the head so I could set the cam shafts in. Simple green works wonders, and is also great for cleaning your hands, though it may be toxic.

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89niner

New Member
Jul 3, 2011
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warshingtonia
Nice build! oh and i just did a valve adjustment on my 89, and if it turns out that you may happen to need shims Ford zetec engine shims work awesome, it does suck that i have ford parts in my toyota but they're not only identical but cheaper :) .... i'm cheap lol
 

mike86supra

New Member
Nov 26, 2008
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connecticut
nice build dude! cant wait to get my hands on this 90 turbo ive got coming in soon.. have to let go of my 87 NA first tho lol. what part in ct are you in?? im by danbury