1.5jz swap questions/concerns

kamikazemkiii

Active Member
Mar 21, 2009
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North Carolina
Currently I have a single turbo mk3 but the bottom end is weak on compression. Still trying to decide should I rebuild, buy another 1jz longblock, or do a whole 1.5jz conversion. I've been reading up on the whole swap and talked to a few members who have done it as well and it seems they are happy. I plan on upgrading my fuel system and turbo before the car is back up and running but id like to know what ALL is needed for the swap? Is does anyone have/know a link to thread that lists everything? est. complete cost? Will I have to alter my tune to get the car running? Im very curious on finding more info so I know what will be necessary for me to purchase. Any info is appreciated.

My goal is roughly 500-600whp

My current mods:
550cc injectors
Aeromotive afpr
Denso mk4 fuel pump
Stinger ems
61mm turbo

Parts collected:
Holset HX35
Arp's
Cam gears
Braided fuel lines
 
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kamikazemkiii

Active Member
Mar 21, 2009
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North Carolina
Id rather come out cheaper if I could, given the blocks are the same except for the oil squirters and the pistons being different. Id buy a set of gte pistons if I do the conversion
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
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Fullerton,CA
Itd be easier just just use a thicker headgasket than swap pistons.. If you use a gte block might as well just do full 2jzgte swap. The 2jzge blocks are pretty tough and with a good tune and compression 9:1 or lower can handle a good amount. There also all over the junkyards esp with all the old lexus gs junkers.
 

slopra

Formerly tsavenged
Jan 15, 2010
284
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San Antonio, TX
I'm also probably gonna go 1.5jz I've got the running 1j. I'm gonna buy a stock gte block from titanmotorsports, they're on sale for like 2600 right now, then I'm gonna go ferrera valve train on the head with some hks 272's. I haven't decided which turbo I'm going with yet, I want something with close to the same spool and resposiveness as the twins. Maybe a 6262 with an sp quick spool valve.

I would go with the gte block man, I hate used parts thats why i'm going with the new block from titan and I would also go standalone because yes you are going to need a tune
 

kamikazemkiii

Active Member
Mar 21, 2009
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North Carolina
Junkyards is were i have found ge blocks its around a 100 bucks for the bottom end, cant beat that price 200 for pistons, rings use the stock rods because from my understanding the rods are the same swap the oil pans and a few misc. things and I should be good. Please correct me if i'm wrong. Stinger is a standalone and for the price you cant beat it, I enjoy it.
 

OneJArpus

Supramania Contributor
Jul 1, 2005
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Newark, New Jersey, United States
^^ I believe the rods are the same...


I got a whole GE long block for 300 and it was in great shape. I'm sure you can find a cheap block and then just rebuild it with aftermarket or TT pistons and it'll hold a good amount of power.
 

OneJArpus

Supramania Contributor
Jul 1, 2005
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kamikazemkiii;1666427 said:
Thats what im planning on doing. Ive heard there are quite a few little odds and ends tho I just need someone to verify this?

Yea there are a few little odds and ends, like turbo oil feed & turbo drain (you can use upper and lower from your 1jz to solve this). I switched my oil filter housing to my 1J housing as I could not install my RX7 external oil cooler so i used the OEM oone from my 1J, i also removed the coolant plugs on the block and attached the fittings from my 1j for the coolant to flow through the oil filter housing. I kept the plugs so i can put them back when i do put my RX7 cooler in.

You also have to modify the water pipe that routes around the block, you have to block off 1 nipple that would feed the OEM twins. You can stay with your hydro water pump like i did as it bolts up or go with a GTE pump. Some say you need the rear housing as well but i don't see why.

You will also need this - http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-15jz2jzwaterpumppipe.php ( i got this for 25 shipped IIRC from a member here with no o-rings) but it would save you the time to get the O-Rings and just order it in one place.


If you want add me on AIM - onejarpus or email me at one.5jz@gmail.com (i reply quicker w/email and IM - haven't been on here too much recently)


I also have some pictures from when i did the swap as a reference
 

kamikazemkiii

Active Member
Mar 21, 2009
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North Carolina
I think im going through with this swap, I have a question regarding the crank angle sensor. The block im getting is a 2jzge how will this work since they use distributers? and Ive heard problems about the oil pumps not lining up or something of that nature can anyone clarify?
 

JZ_n_It

New Member
May 22, 2005
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Norfolk, VA
distributors go through the head on 2jz's. i dunno what youre talking about oil pumps not lining up though. also. I used the NA 2jz's waterpump tube. you need a 2jzgte crank gear and crank angle sensor. the thing about getting a 2jzgte waterpump is that everywhere i looked its sold as one unit with the rear housing.
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
1,504
0
0
Abalama
I was on a $300 junkyard GE motor with 180,000 miles. I swapped the block out ofter almost two years of daily abuse.

I made 635rwhp on 93 + meth. Low to me, probably due to the condition of the engine. Burned oil at idle sometimes, weird. Finally, the rings gave out of a night running 27PSI every single day on a 74mm + meth.

Now I am on a 1JZ block with healthy compression (~60,000 miles) and I can tell a difference.

The off the line torque is less (noticed right away), and even getting into boost from rolling takes longer with .5 L difference. I removed a lot of fuel when I swapped over to the 2.5L block so I know less air all equates to less power.

On boost, I really cannot notice much difference other than an extra 1,000 RPM higher rev capacity which just sounds sexy as hell. The 1JZ seems to just want to rev and rev and rev... Not like the feeling of the GE block I was on. Just a bit different experience. Later on, I'll swap to a Sound Performance oil pump, and put the redline where I really want it to match this head setup. 1JZ oil pumps will bolt right up to the GE block. Use all 1JZ sensors. Save your cash. Use a 2JGTE or make your own waterneck tube, and get the oil feed done. You are finished with the 1.5JZ swap.

I expect to be brake boosting as usual, and at higher RPM's, it's not really that big a deal IMO. If you can get a GE block, that would be the way to go though........... and I would recommend it.
 

Nghty89

Zombie Chicks Are Hot
Mar 26, 2008
978
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7 Cities, VA
Last I checked, the 2jzge/gte bottom end's could handle 7-8,000 rpm's, correct? The thing making the 1jz feel like it's revving better is the lower weight on the internals (less rotational mass)?
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
1,504
0
0
Abalama
Nghty89;1686428 said:
Last I checked, the 2jzge/gte bottom end's could handle 7-8,000 rpm's, correct? The thing making the 1jz feel like it's revving better is the lower weight on the internals (less rotational mass)?

Just personally, I'd take the 2J-GE bottom to 8K max when racing if you have a 74mm+ turbo. You're going to start making power on top, and when you shift you need to get back into it. It's a bitch to keep spooling unless you are flat shifting. Maybe two BOV's is too much.. Anyway, I would keep it below 7500 for longevity. The higher you spin, the less motor life you're going to end up with. Sounds like a good trade, depending on how you like replacing short blocks.

The 1JZ block is going to 8.5K for the rev cut on in case I need those extra RPMs. I do not plan on visiting even over 8K very often, but it's nice to know it's there.

I'll always think about the front main seal before going any higher.
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
1,504
0
0
Abalama
My point exactly. I just don't know if I'll actually decide to go higher. I should have went with the 80mm.....