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I was unlucky enough to find 3 bad AFMs before finding a good working one but I am finally rid of that code! I checked all the wiring and measured continuity from the sensor to the ecu. Everything was good there so I was starting to question the ECU ae well as rhe AFM. Now I still have the...

First I checked for boost leaks, none. Then i double checked mechanical timing and CPS timing, good and good. was able to source a replacement TPS locally. Installed, calibrated and tested it. No more code 51! Now i get code 31... AFM Let the parts hunt begin again. Still need to read up on...

Boost leak was next on my list to check. So ill do that tomorrow as well as try the fuel pressure regulator. Sorry, what is the the ve reading??

I was able to set the timing with the high idle but will recheck it. Replace the wiring to the CPS (and knock sensor) with new ones from YotaConnectors. Wiring to the AFM should be good but ill double check. And ill double check the mechanical timing but i doubt it would cause the car to run...

Hey all, so I finally got my car running again after a rebuild and NA-T swap. The car is now running crazy rich. At first the idle was really high (probably 2500) but it would stay running and it was throwing Code 51 (throttle position sensor). After calibrating the TPS, Code 51 went away...

After all this time, I am stoked to see this back! Really missed this resource when doing my na-t swap/rebuild. Huge thanks to Jeff for getting this back up and running. And it took him less time then my rebuild lol

Do you know which one you have? (VMT68 or the VMT2AZ?) I really wanted to go with the toyotool but had a hard time justifying double the cost for the one time I would use it haha

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj1fRNpWNMs Same idea on a 7M. Remove the cams, stuff the cylinder full of rope, turn the engine over by hand until the rope is firmly pressed against the valves. Use a valve keeper removal tool (like the Lisle 36050 or toyotool, do not order the Lisle 36200...

They exist but they are rare and expensive https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-TOYOTA-SUPRA-JZA70-STAINLESS-DOOR-VISORS-RAIN-GUARDS-OEM/253395341422?hash=item3aff8a106e:g:GpYAAOxyBotTYPCB&vxp=mtr

Honestly I would go with the factory wingless 3rd brake light. It is original and you can claim you "did not tamper with a safety decice" and i think you would be in the clear. That being said, I have never dealt with OPP. If you are really concerned though, you may be able to relocate the...

Oh? What was wrong with It? Also, did the new steering rack come with the bushings to mount it or is that seperate?

Thanks so much for the info! You were defiantly right, the inner tie rods are completely different due to the steering damper. I may end up replacing the entire rack at this point. It is leaking anyway.

So I am in the process of redoing the suspension on the supra (new shocks, springs, lower ball joints and front upper arms) and wanted to replace the tie rod ends at the same time. But the supra gods had other plans... Not with a torch, not with a air chisel and not even with two 18" pipe...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=8712&P=1 It is located under the dash on the passenger side and is mounted on the blower box it self. It is labeled 87138 on that picture and the part number is 87138-24030

Like reklund5 said, it very likely the resistor. I have had it go on both of my supras.

Saw it on Instagram. She put down some good numbers

What Facebook page is this on?

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?145868-Rear-BBK-anyone :thumbup:

I've been creeping your Instagram every month or so, hoping to see progress. Glad this car is on the path to recovery. It will defiantly be unique

Wow! That's some serious coin right there. Nice stuff man. http://www.suprastore.com/hybiinmakit1.html