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Oops. I just looked up "drive plate" and that's what I meant by "flex" plate. Sorry, I guess I still haven't learned the correct terminology.

Hmm..I haven't done any engine/tranny work (heck, what can you even do with an automatic:3d_frown:).. So what is in or around the tranny, that can rattle/tap/move around cold or hot..or in your case, heats up and becomes movable..?

rtrdpenguin also has the problem I have. Here is his thread, with some (not too high quality) videos.

The Supra: 1990 N/A Automatic 10k on rebuild. A little history: I started hearing a rattling sound coming from the back of the engine. I glanced around but figured it was my exhaust heat shields. Over the next week, the sound got more and more worse. Now for the odd part: Only rattles at...

Unfortunately, the sound is not normal. It just started about a week.5 ago. I guess I'll check again for anything loose, but I think I did a pretty thorough check:( Moving thread to General MkIII.

I guess we have the same problem then. I have an automatic though. The noise stops completely when I idle up over 1500ish. Sometimes it will tap/rattle the second I start the car, sometimes it won't do it at all. I took off the tranny cover plate and checked the bolts connecting the flex...

Does the sound noise happen all the time? Does it sound like it's coming from where the engine/tranny connect? From what I could hear it the videos, it sounds a little like the noise mine is making...

Moved to General MkIII section.

Not too sure what happened, but try checking the TPS. When mine got out of whack it would stall if I didn't keep pressure on the gas.

That's a good idea. My FPR died on me (it is over 18yrs old) and I got about 13MPG until I put on an AFPR.

x2. It's the best filter.

Do a search for "Springs" or "Lowering Springs", if you haven't already. There are some pretty good threads out there, some with pics too. But I second H&R's for the drop. I'm planning on getting a set.

Well the car is feels like it's running better, but I'll know more once I get some miles on the tank of gas I just got. I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped...and put up with my over complication of things!:biglaugh: You guys rock.

I am officially one of the dumber people on SM:( Turns out my problem had nothing to do with fuel maps or sensors; the Walbro (w/12v Mod) was pushing too much fuel. When we checked my fuel pressure (with the vaccuum line on, and the engine idling) it was about 55PSI. We hooked up a fuel pump...

Part of me likes them (especially the night pics) but another part of me thinks it's "ricey".

The person was sitting in the driver's seat, holding the RPM's at 2500, while I was at the diagnostic block. I could have sworn I did everything right, but if the results I got aren't possible I'll just recheck it today. Ooh. I'll have to see if Cuel can smoke the exhaust too. I hope it's just...

I saw the voltage change atleast 20 times while I had someone else timing it. I might just be retarded, so tomorrow when I get off work I'll retest the O2 Sensor and closed loop VF. I haven't gotten the smoke test yet, I'm going to see Cuel tomorrow, so hopefully he can squeeze in a Smoke...

I'm digging the setup. Your car doesn't even look like a 4x4, it looks great overall IMO.

Oh alright, I wasn't sure if it was supposed to move or not:biglaugh: Well I used to average between 300mi. and 320mi to a tank; and now I can't get more than 270mi. So it ranges from 45-60mi. less per tank. It might not seem like too much, but with gas prices the way they are - I want to...

When I'm getting over 45 less miles to a tank than before (and I'm driving the exact same) I think there's a problem. I don't think the temp. sensor is it either, I'm just following CRE/JJ's advice. When testing with "Closed Loop", the voltage kept jumping from about 1.86v to 2.48v. It...