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Lol. I've gone over the vacuum lines/intake about 4 times now and can't find anything. Hopefully, on Sunday I can get a smoke test. Ya, the Sensor doesn't sit tight in its fitting. The threaded section is tight, just not the plastic part. I always get a correct reading, but it doesn't feel...

87, Did you take the tails off to do them? I bought some ClearCoat and VHT, started to take everything apart then quit. I got pissed off 'cuz the tails weren't coming off.

Oh, lol. Well I'll take you guys' word for it, ya'll have more experience than me.

1) I started getting about 14MPG when I used to get 20+, and it smells more rich than it used to. Also, my new catback/muffler has a rather thick layer of black "soot" after only being on for 3 weeks. I would like to get the VF back to midrange as well. 2) My fuel pump was going out and I plan...

The only thing I did with the Walbro is get rid of the Resistor (I ran the wires back into eachother. Sorry, I'm not great with the "lingo"). No codes. Would watching the VF, while manually moving the TB Valve work the same as watching it and driving? If the O2 sensor was bad would I still...

I prefer working alone, but sometimes it's better to have someone with you (to help guide, or to call 911 when you drop the transmission on your head;))

Hmm...well to be honest I'm not sure when it runs lean/rich. I do know that I don't get the gas mileage or performance I used to and when I start the car it smells worse than before (smells richer...kinda like the ECU thinks it's running lean, so it's overcompensating when it doesn't need to)...

My EFI system has been out of whack (ECU thinks it's running lean, so I'm now running rich) for a while so I finally broke down and started testing. I was testing voltages (per FI-32 in the TSRM) and everything was within spec. except for VTA-E2 (Throttle Valve fully open, it read "3.63")...

I live in south Texas with no A/C and it's really not too unbearable. If it's raining, just put the CC on like you have A/C and you'll get air into the car. If you sit in traffic a lot, then that's a different story. I'm never in traffic jams.

Alrighty, thanks a lot Grim!

My (cheap) multimeter doesn't have a 5v scale:icon_frow...I guess I'll borrow a better one from a friend and redo the test. Oh, and should I stick the positive probe on VF1 (like the TSRM says with checking the O2 Sensor)?

Ok, my car has been running pretty rich lately, so I checked the VF (using the Diagnostic box and a Multimeter). On a 20v Scale, the multimeter read: 6.44v with the positive connected to E1 -2.44v with the positive connected to VF1 Does this mean the ECU is increasing the fuel input by...

Hmm...my AutoZone said 17" and 19" for the front, 17" for the rear. But 17" for the rear seems kinda small.

I'll look it up tomorrow when I go to work (AutoZone) if no one gives you a solid answer here.

AutoZone? You can buy the plastic piping and make one yourself..or I think 935MotorSports (an SM Vendor) sells a CAI kit for the N/A.

If you start making these, and I have the money, I'm def. in!

Can't you just pull the EFI fuse everytime you get out of the car?:biglaugh:

That's cool, a tad on the expensive side though =/

Is your car Automatic or Manual? If it is Automatic, make sure the car is fully in Park before trying to get the key out. Sometimes I have to push my Gear Shift into Park again when my key gets stuck. But if your car is manual..IDK what to tell ya.

Alright, thanks. *Forgot to mention: I'm a n00b when it comes to Wheels and Tires...*