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Glad to see you got it home! After seeing how clean this is, it makes me sad to have gotten rid of mine. At least I still get to work on them :P And the ebrake/shift boots came from Empera (awesome work as everyone knows)

right and right and right... the sucky thing is that its not just a layout... its approximately 10,000 lines of code of PHP that i wrote to automate a user database (think myspace) i spent over a month on the project, called in to both of my normal jobs several times, and ruined my personal...

hey everybody, dont know if we have any lawyers or legal professionals here, but i figured id ask. I need to have an attorney (i think) submit a letter of cease and desist to a website owner and web host. i programmed a php back end for a website for a company. they originally offered me a...

put me down for the turn signal shades! i can paypal as soon as i cash my check :)

the 89+ looks a bit different; there is another strip about 1/2" wide on the bottom.

The most likely cause is going to be the switch. Check it per the TSRM, and when verified good, check for +12v and ground at the injector connector during cold start conditions (test light or noid lights make it a breeze). Also the injector itself should be ohmed out to about 2-4 ohms. TSRM...

i would guess that "it wont pass smog, knock sensor" means that the check engine light is on and thats why it wont pass smog. it most likely needs a knock sensor re-wire. if the motor runs good, and no bhg or rod knock, and the body is straight, id pay no higher than 1500

thats the idle air control valve hose here ya go: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=2211&P=1 this one: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/Parts/22270A.aspx

at autozone (and any other parts store) you will find many many "rubber expansion plugs." they are designed to temporarily fix the problem. once you get the old one out, just put the rubber one in the hole and tighten the nut. all you have to do is measure the hole, and match one up that is...

its most likely the tps' switch that says when its closed.

same thing i did to mine when i was also having starting issues. kinda funny... me and my dad used a spark tester while cranking... it was like... "okay... no spark........ spark!.... no wait... nope.... yeah, got one..... wtf???"

yeah, there should have been a bottom plate that came with the wastegate. the valve seals up against that.

yeah, i did mine too... forgot to install the whole egr cooler assembly and didnt realize it until i started it up the first time. gearwrench go-thru ratchet set ftmfw :) http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4007

ok, the oil squirters are used to keep the piston temperature a bit lower. they are not absolutely required in a turbo configuration, however take note that most turbo engines have them. the oil send port is there, but its not drilled or tapped for the banjo bolt (m12x1.25). also, the drain is...

yeah... the guy had parked it there the night before (because it "shut off on him") the camper was clean, a few expensive hats inside and lots of free vegas porn but thats about it. the vin checked out good, and the registration and insurance is valid until october 2008. today, i found out...

ok, so yesterday, this old guy comes in to my work and puts his keys on the counter and told me that he didnt want his truck anymore. he signed me off the registration (canadian form of transfer of ownership) and called a cab to get on a bus. i have the truck now, its an 83 dodge ram w/ 318...

#3: my most recent mistake is welding my hks wastegate "bottom plate" which happened to look like a thin flange. i had no idea until now. so my wastegate doesnt seal, and it lags a lot! #2: didnt drain oil after my first bhg job resulting in almost instant rod knock #1: found damaged clutch...

the head itself is the same. you wont have a problem there. also, the compression is determined by the pistons, not the head. na = 9.1:1, turbo = 8.5:1

i measured mine with a level. keep in mind that the max warpage number of .003" is only good if the straightedge is touching the block corner to corner, front to back. the main places you will be concerned with is in between cylinders, and towards the front of the block at the oil pressure hole...

i am assuming that you are using a block tester that goes in the radiator filler neck with blue liquid that turns yellow if a leak is detected, right? make sure that the car has been at operating temperature, and that the level of radiator fluid is a little lower than normal. you cant suck any...