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Done properly it's safe, it's been done for years and years. that being said, aside from very specific cases, it isn't worth the money or effort compared to getting wider wheels.

While I personally wouldn't do it, widening aluminum wheels is very doable and has been done for years. http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/index-1.html http://www.ericvaughnmachine.com/ http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/wheel-widening-experiences/10019/page1/

Awesome work and thank you for detailing part numbers and mods needed to get everything to fit. Questions: -Are you using the L33 ECU/Harness/Intake, or did you convert to the popular F-body/LS-x setup? -AC/PS plans? (unless I missed something) -Are you using the stock truck accessory drive or...

weren't you busy talking about how its so damaging or hard to remove or similar? :icon_razz taste is taste. If it doesn't suit yours, so be it. Doesn't make it any less valid an option though.

I think their red looks pretty good lol.

I would go with the pure white with glossifier lol. Otherwise go nuts with it and get one of the Blaze colors (blaze orange mkiii?). Or join the DYC forum and look at their custom color lists.

No, it isn't cheaper. You don't HAVE to use the most expensive colors, or glossifier. Decent paint and materials will run you more imho since you'll be buying gallons of primer, base, and clear. apples to apples: if the paint's far gone, you ONLY have to sand it smooth, plasti dip will stick...

I'm not going to argue with you until you come up with some concrete evidence showing it's not removable, aren't you supposed to be known for always wanting hard proof? maaco is a joke, especially their prep work. Are you really going to compare the massive level of prep work needed for...

based on what? Even wraps can damage paint when prepped/applied improperly, or using the wrong type of product. Also, the total cost for 3gal of the florescent (most expensive) dip and a gallon of glossifier is LESS than $300. I BELIEVE (but can't remember) that there's a few people who've...

if only it was removable... You guys do realize it doesnt HAVE to be matte finish right? If you spray it by the gallon you can mix your own colors, go metallic/pearl, and add glossifier, which lets you go from a satin all the way to a full gloss finish... and yes, still removable (easily, if...

this is the ghetto way of doing it. (yes, amazingly there's a ghetto way to plasti dip a car lol) check out www.dipyourcar.com and their youtube videos for a better way, involving custom colors mixed by the gallon and sprayed out of electric HVLP sprayers. http://www.youtube.com/dipyourcarcom...

also, OP you can run a free, preliminary check if a vehicle has been reported salvaged/stolen through the NICB. Not a substitute for having your local PD run it but a good way to rule out cars. https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck

For clarification you mean a non-vvti 1UZ head, right? A VVT-i 1 or 3UZ head should flow the same/better than the 2UZ heads. Also, if you wanted to run 2UZ heads on an early car, you could run the non-VVTi heads without worrying about oil channels afaik, but would still need a standalone...

If you are serious about upgrading the heads on your 1UZ to the later model heads, I would recco you take a look at fitting early (non-VVTi) 2UZ heads instead of 1/3UZ VVTi heads. You'll still have to go standalone (since there's no provision for distributors iirc) but you'll be able to use...

no problem, rumor is that Toyota didnt feel they needed the 6-bolt main for the 2UZ since it's an extra-dense (cite) iron block. the 1UZ was originally codeveloped to serve dual purpose as a base for a saloon car engine hence the over-square, short stroke, 6-bolt main, etc... EDIT: Also...

just wanted to add my bit: Weight: The 2UZ 4.7L block weighs a grand total of 82lbs (~37.2kg) more than the aluminum blocked UZ engines. Given the weight savings the 1uz enjoys over the 7m/xJ series engines this shouldn't be a major concern. The pushrod SBC motors are lighter, however. 1UZ...

EZ street are similar to the higher end models, just with slightly different valving/springrates, fewer damper adjustments, and rubber upper mounts instead of pillowball/bearing mounts. I've run LP streets on my Lexus LS for the past 3 years and love them, but will probably go with some PBM/BC...

custom mounts and no subframe mods? i need to go reread your build thread...

i'm interested in what stylle or vehicle sump setups you guys are using. I take it you're both using the advance or novak adapter for SBC/LSx to R154 with your own pieced together clutches?

can't you get a converter so you can run a CB antenna in the stock antenna location and use it for both CB and AM/FM radio? i've thought about it for putting in a CB or police scanner actually. i like the whip antenna/RC Car look :P