get an impact or use a flywheel holder tool like this one.
in order to remove the trans youll have to pull the clutch fork pin and pull the fork out and the trans should come out with everything else removed. heres the procedure, just click through "next page" for the rest...
meh, its not good but def not the worst ive seen come out of a trans.
looks like a couple pieces may be actual "chunks" while the rest of it looks like flakes? chunks are worse than flakes...flakes arent good either, its an indication that a bearing/race is trying to erode. is that all that...
sell it on ebay- "for sale here is a gold producing toyota supra transmission" current bid-$500,000
that looks like a LOT of shavings in there...would one assume that the fluid has never been drained before? how does it shift? i think its safe to assume its the syncros.
if it were me, id...
subframe bushings or do you mean front control arm bushings? if you mean control arms, do you mean upper or lower?
nevermind, sorry...i see the bushings you mean in the front, i didnt know there were any up there.
have you considered simply going to lowering springs? my h&r race springs put a 1 finger gap in the front with my 16" mk4 n/a wheels. if you have tems you can go with tokico illumina and keep the system. its not quite coilover stiffness but on the firm setting im sure its close. on the soft...
thanks for the tip, i litterally JUST finished all my bushings/struts i did all energy bushes from driftmotion and also got DM's rear subframe spacers and now its sitting on h&r race springs on tokico illuminas.
today i went to toyota for bump stops and lmao'ed all the way out the door, they...
link please? all i did was use self tapping screws and screwed em on where the magnet cleared. doesnt sound horrible but im sure theres room for improvement...id like pods.
well done! i looked at your build thread 5+pages back and didnt see any rc cars. what nitro car are you using? i have motor/cyl head clearance issued on my nitro 4tec. ill be using this for display only too, the lights are still masked off so i can still throw em in behind the outer...
VERY VERY well done sir, conversion and manual charging for dummies is complete. these instructions will apply for almost any automotive ac system folks, im surprised you havnt gotten more thanks.
so, im replacing the compressor, dryer and expansion valve. flushing the lines/condenser the best i can with flush and 150psi air. cleaning the evap out and ill prob do the insulation wrap like mentioned. i have 2 e-fans pulling on the radiator, ill do the foam trick and see what happens...
do you have tems? those tokico are tems compatable, with a push of a button and or additional firm override youll never even have to get out of the car to adjust. thats why im going with em.
i could have sworn i read someone was trying to develop a way to make the tein adjustables work with...
im pretty sure the new dodge runs a twin compressor wheel now too. i saw one at tx state fair...it was a cutaway so the compressor housing may have been different but it looked like a single out, not like this dual one.
cool shit tho, id still be plenty happy with just a plain bb vnt on my 7m.
^^^bingo, sleepy/lazy eye is a good weekend project for some folks...and sometimes a few trips to the store for fabrication.
unless you work at a shop, i wouldnt try it unless you can afford some down time to do it properly.
DO NOT use stock headlights!!!
i know youve made pointless...
very interested in a writeup!
im not too interested in using the s2's cluster, but wiring pinouts and converters and such is what id like to get out of it. who knows, maybe if i see it installed in a mk3 dash ill change my mind. i just think itll look out of place. i def want something...
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