It has already been said but I will say it again. You really should pull the motor and go over everything. As I see now you need a main/front harness and engine harness. It is a whole lot easier to route tthe main/front harness with both fenders off and the dash out.
I wouldnt worry about the fuel pump until the starter issue is sorted. If everything is properly connected as it is supposed to be, give this thread a read.
I replaced some door hinges on a Supra and didnt enjoy it at all. Even with the fender off. Actually it wasnt the replacing so much as the adjusting afterwards that was a pain.
The one wheel is where the fuel tank gave up its vapors and fueled the fire. Not saying your theory is flawed as it is entirely possible. Just stating where the heat came from to melt the wheel.
Sorry for your loss. Just learn the lesson and build better the next time.
LMFAO
I can say I have never seen either situation happen at the track. I did see an incident that was similar that happened while at a redlight. Made for an interesting story.
Never tried the PBR. I can say the SS ceramix from NAPA perform very well. It is the ones I run on my car. You really wanna be an ass to the guy at NAPA, go back and ask him why the base number on the pads are the same if there is really a difference. The explanation should be classic.
I am working on it. Not as fast as I would like but still....
Still need to study your motor to get a better mental image of how things are suposed to be done. May be dropping the engine in this weekend.
Wait, wait. I 'll give the benefit of the doubt on the joke for an n/a IC.
But this Ic piping thing you got going on....WTF are you on??
In the yellow box we have zip ties in place of hose clamps!!
In the red box that looks just like a peice of flex hose!
Not to mention the stuff...
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