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Although removed from its actual mount, it becomes obvious when looking at it where it mounts. The harness is the large one that runs from the headlights back into the car and across the firewall for the AT plug. Dont remeber seeing it on any of the 5sp cars.

There are 2 different boxes on the early models. One connector has an 'L' shape to it and doesnt have the wiring monitoring the passenger door lock. THe other connector is a straight connector with the wiring for the passenger door. Unit is actually mounted to the braket the steering column...

^^ Actually yes. On a car from NY as I recall. Came into the dealership with a cracked control arm making noise from all the rust. Took me a bit of work but it came loose. Wasnt useable afterwards but I used no cutting tool.

On frozen suspension bolts you can also squirt some brake fluid onto the problem fasteners. Let it soak for a few minutes and they will most likely come free or at least become workable enough to replace them. This also goes for exhaust bolts and nuts.

Search much? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34560

BHG thread in 5,4....... Not trying to be an ass but if you have a new radiator cap and it has been doin this for more than a couple of days. You have a blown HG on cylinder 6 for sure.

I can hear the loose nut behind the wheel rattling from here.

http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/ks_mon.htm This is the one I am looking into. Just havent warmed up to the guage idea yet and hoping I come across something better.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=17 Thats about as easy as it gets.

If you can actually feel the power loss, you have more problems than a fan clutch can give you.

The NPR set that Aaron at Driftmotion carries can be ordered in a .020 over set. Those will do fine in a stock rebuild. Give Aaron a call or email.

More questions = more understanding. Hi-jack away. I was thinking of coming over the bellhousing and going through the firewall with a new grommet. I am using the LC-1 and am not seeing an easy way to protect it from the heat of the turbo/exhaust.

I just purchased a WB O2 sensor and am wondering where to mount it. I have read many threads here and elsewhere. Everyone seems to place it from next to the factory NB O2 sensor up to 3' away from the turbo on many applications. What is the best placement for this sensor and why?

http://tunertools.com/proddetail.asp?prod=IN-3796 For monitoring your AFR, this is a very robust package for the money. There is also a kit in blue availble.

Is it the compressor or the tensioner bearing making the noise?

When I rebuilt the transmission and valve body the problem was gone. I remember there was a few valves that were really difficult to get out for all the friction material built up in the bore. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1076964&postcount=77

Mine was a valve that would stick until the pressure was enough to push it. It had to do with temprature and flow of the fluid. Once broken lose or warmed up it would shift fine. I want to say the primary regulator valve was the culprit. A freind that was coaching me through building my valve...

Sounds like someone put a 1156 bulb into a 1157 socket.

If you are still running an open differential you wont hook. Better tires and LSD rear are needed for a good launch.

There are bearings in the alternator that can fail also.