Search results

Hehe, I didn't need a prybar on mine, the pivot bolt was missing. But yeah, you probably just need some more leverage. I remember it didn't have much room to move the pump though and after I replaced the pivot screw I had work at it to get the new belt on.

Errr.... if that's the case, you are familiar with our side marker lights? Have you, just by chance, happened to notice the large number of members looking for a clear set? Then there's that funny little thing with 89+ clear turns no longer being available.... In other words: Damn man, hook us...

Can they cast it in the shape of the original? I'm curious how the finished product would look... I suppose it wouldn't stand out any more than the dark blue hi-beam indicator plastic. Or perhaps just do a run of very lightly smoked faces, just enough to look stock.

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: Given that it's already displaying through a pane of smoked acrylic, I would personally prefer to avoid using filters to color it. But, if that's all you spot, it'd be alright. The stocker's just already too dim for my tastes. Yeah, definitely not something...

Clock VFD Replacement :bigthumb: Here's the pinout of the stock unit: On the site Kai posted a link to the family of displays "D0103MT-20-XXX" is a direct replacement... those are only offered in green there though. Kai, you up to finding us a blue and a red module? I've done my...

How do you think I managed to get you as much of the pin out as I emailed you? Nope, no labels. "7G." was stamped on the backside in what appeared to be nothing more than dense wax... could've been a vinyl based paint/silk screen medium which has broken down though.... but, that's all that was...

Depending on how you want to do job you either need to cut out some plastic and you can mount the display deeper, or you can order the SIP I posted a link for earlier. Solder in the sockets and the display simply plugs in. Here's the link again...

Okay, if you're claiming the title of Class A, I'm A+.... I farm the work out! :evil2:

KAI!!!! Keep it down mang! sheesh. :3d_frown: Okay, well here we go.... Yes, I'm working on something which will fit in the shell of the old clock and use it's buttons/wires. There will be some more wires to run as well, but nothing painful, it's not going to have a built in boost...

I'm working on something.... I'm sure I could convert the display type, but why bother with that much work when just a little more will give me something MUCH better? Sounds like Kai's up for looking for swappable displays of different colors. Kai, PM me your email addy and I'll send you what...

I have insuficient information for me to make offer an educated estimate of you SQ. :biglaugh: Something like this is doable, but it would require a custom dual LED, and a comparator.... OR you could do it with a LCD with a switchable backlight, a display driver and a comparator to drive the...

Thanks! Thanks also go out to Kai for finding a pin compatible display! The SuperMonitor is an 8 character VFD matrix.

I've already got one opened up and dissected. It's not a straight swap to drop in LEDs you'll need a massive A/D converter and some more room in the housing to fit it. I had been working on the pinout of the VFD. I'm too picky about a clean interior to look for a compatible VFD display, their...

Personally, I'd rather have the display sitting at it's stock location.... what can I say? I'm anal as hell about some things. :dunno: Kai - These would work: http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=323-13-132-41-001000virtualkey57510000

Kai, I was looking at the data for the SIP you found, but I think it's going to be too short. Remember, most of the display's pin sinks into it. If we're going to use SIPs or DIPs we still need something with more length. That's why I suggested a wire wrap socket.

Well, they do color code them for a reason, but I wouldn't depend on it.

Most aren't designed that way. But if that where the case the set of leads which provide the most resistence is more than likely the bulb... but I haven't seen one like that in years. Another option would be to just place a 9 volt battery on the tabs. The center's your ground, so place the...

Or just well advertised. :icon_conf

DUDE!!! I own a Supra! Where the URL for the cheap ones!? :evil2:

You can check continuity in Ohms on most meters. It'll give you a result with a VERY low resistence, but there will be a reading. If your MM has a continuity function you can find it by holding both metal probes together an switching through the mosed until you hear a beep. EDIT: Oh, and...