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The large one is a part of the forward funnel. Without it the grill opens and air can dump out the bottom.

If you've got it, keep it. Mine needed a couple fender washers and I added a couple aluminum braces to firm it up. Splash guard or not, my car feels a lot more stable with it when driving at speeds in the three digits.

No, no, no... you've got it backward! You've got to learn how to GAUGE how DRUNK.

Yeah, if you recall it's just like prom night... "firm but gentle pressure", and she'll cave eventually. :naughty:

Better cooling, reduces turbulence beneath the car at higher speeds (see: more stable and save gas)

No way the needles on my 89+ gauges could stay on for the swap. And the pre89 come off the same way.

An 8 ball and 45 minutes with a hooker. EDIT: D'oh, beat to it... I'm standing by the 8 ball suggestion (and no, I don't mean a novelty shift knob).

You need the wideband for the setup and tuning, but you could remove it once you've got the tuning done and let the ECU maintain cruise AFRs if you don't want to use the MAFT Pro's Part Throttle Tracking or the WOT Tracking.

WOT tracking is great. My N/A had problems with the removal of the stock O2 sensor though.... might be specific to my car though.

The only way I'd connect the fans to the TEMS switch would be by running the signal to a comparator so the fans will only step up from the current speed which should still be determined by the temp sensor. Oh, and what in particular are you looking to accomplish with the oil pressure gauge? If...

Ah, so he plans on disabling the TEMS and just using the switch... okay. (It's still a bad idea if it's the sole means of control.)

Absolutely! So why would you connect your electric fans to it? :3d_frown:

I'm just sick of those posts... absolute garbage. "In to subscribe" complete waste of time, mine and there's. One more thing that'll save mileage is driving with your windows up at anything past 30mph. According to a couple studies (both independent and government, IIRC), driving with your...

Not really, as long as the signal is scaled the same way as the 7M's VAF you can adjust for differences in the MAFT Pro's tuning. Feel free to PM me with any more questions. EDIT: ForcedTorque, If you run the MAFT Pro in Speed/Density you can remove the AFM and run boost control. A MAP sensor...

The needles are pressure fit. Rotate the needle counter clockwise until it stops, remember the location and pull it off. Swap face and put the needle back on in the same place. As for the TEMS wired fans.... you kidding? Might seem like a good idea, but only if you've got additional controllers...

MAF Translator (hence the MAFT in the MAFT Pro) OR MAF/AFM eliminator, boost controller, timing controller, fuel controller.

Well, in the future, should you wish to subscribe to a thread prior to announcing your brilliance, there is a selection under "Thread tools" for just that purpose.

Yeah, that spot sucks... too much RTV and you're hosed... too little and it blows out... then you're hosed. I recently dealt with fixing the latter. Like cuel said, dye is a good idea for finding the source of the leak.

I had the same occur. Definitely worth doing the HG at this point. Exhaust gases are caustic and will only lead to more headache if allowed to continually contaminate the coolant.

Heh, I just assumed it was new... if not then there's another major possibility.