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Some additional facts about color and the eye's reaction: Green is perceived with the greatest clarity and contrast of ANY color by the HUMAN eye. Red light requires the MOST time for the HUMAN eye to adjust for in order to perceive a truly CLEAR view of the image presented. Orange/Amber...

Awwww, and I was hoping to be the first one with true white illumination.... serves me right for putting off the etching of the boards. Looks great! So, did you wet sand the backs of the faces?

I was just joking about the whole reluctance thing. The solution using two resistors in a network replaces the MAFT Pro's feed to THA. One less wire to run and it supplies 2.5v as soon as the ECU boots so no issues with the MAFT Pro not providing that signal soon enough. :D I haven't had to...

So you don't go spraying fuel in there when you don't need it? Spark's cheap. ;) By the way, you can disable the fuel by simply removing the EFI fuse.

It's threads like this which leave me glad that there are no more than 3 people on this forum who have actually seen my car...... it makes it sooo much easier for me to post pics of someone else's ride. :naughty: A lot of VERY nice looking cars shown here though.

Heh, it's already got assembly lube on it... but not knowing what or how well it stayed in place after sitting in a van for a week I'd be inclined to pull the cams and lube everything up well with moly. Before you put the timing belt back on turn the cams by hand and pour oil over them. This...

I usually grease the hell out of the camshafts and the shims and then pour over a quart or two of oil so it can "fill in the gaps"... probably slight overkill but not a bad idea.

The only car I ever noticed a decent difference between the stages on was running freshly installed dampers and new springs. It's a decent system (for a daily driver) as long as things are working well but it's nothing I'd go out of my way for. Heh, this reminds me that I've still got a blue...

Yeah, same thing and yeah they're pricey.

Looking at the TEWD, the thermistor doesn't share anything with the rest of the KVAF's circuitry. It's possible the grounds are shared at some point, but it's nothing to do with the power from VC. I'd start with checking your grounds, namely E1 and E2.

Excellent! It is good to have convictions and better yet to actually stand by them.... :nuts: Well, since you've obviously got a problem with resistors (don't blame ya... little monsters if you ask me... always standing in the way of progress) I won't point out that BigAaron does mention a fix...

What systems, if any, do have power?

I understand... it could've been voltage drop, the diodes I was trying to use (1N4002, IIRC), or the relays I was using but the relays would continuously stumble while cranking. This was on two different cars (one GE and one GTE), on the third (GTE) we just used two resistors on the THA line to...

Just a note for any N/A guys who read this. A single resistor across E1 and THA will NOT resolve the code for the GE ECU. If you wish to use a resistor you'll need to use two of the same value. One goes across E1 and THA and the other across VC and THA. If you run it this way you do NOT connect...

It's 20 years old and I'm still paying for it. ;)

Errr.... I was just joking.

So how did you determine you have a BHG? :naughty:

Grab a nut an inch or inch and a half long that'll fit in the hex bolt... then just use a regular socket. ;)

<cough> MAFT Pro </cough> If you're looking for quick and easy and not planning on adding a fuel controller swapping in the GTE ECU's easiest. If you're going to be adding a fuel controller, go with the ECU of your choice and add a MAFT Pro. OR go standalone. No, the GTE ECU will require...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4