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IIRC the ecu shut the engine if it rev above 2500rpm with the throttle closed (or think it is closed)

canada and the rest of the world

a afternoon with the 7m in the car 15min with the engine on a stand

Stock PP and feramic 6 puck from george (raptor racing)

ahhh I never realised that. I tought the charcoal canister was only used to pour the fuel vapor into the fenders when vacuum was applied to the canister. I'll try to make some custom mounting brakets (broke the original ones) and put the damn thing back. by the way: does it has any effect on...

What make the fuel pump happy in the charcoal cannister....

how does it make the fuel pump happy if you vent it anyway but without that charcoal canister checkvalve?

while on the topic. is there a downside to removeing the charcoal canister (I did the whole summer without it... didn't seem to affect the MPG and there wasn't that much gaz smell)??

that's clever. However I understand the reason behind not pushing it that far

I'm not sure about this but: A simple piggyback won't cut it, you can't play with the timing on a piggyback, you can only trick the ecu and alter the afm frequency signal. I wouldn't do it unless you have a standalone and a EGT sensor tapped into the #6 manifold runner

with a standalone you can remove the egr without any significant impacts as you will be tuned correctly anyway, the EGT will be a bit higher and you'll have a crappier MPG IIRC

when you were running that turbo on the stock ecu with a safc II. how could you not hit the Fuel cut at 15-16 psi if it flow more than a 57 trim

I have done the search on EGT thread in the last few day. From what I can gather, you may blow up your engine with a USDM ECU with no EGR on a slight load throttle condition. The egr make the intake mix a bit richer, the ecu think the egr is there and that everything is fine when in reality it...

reasonably priced front/rear splitter

I just read the article on the toyota head bolts fasteners. The only culprit for the infamous BHG is the torque spec, there is nothing else to it really?.

that explain why my 7m is holding the ct-26 57 with bpu so well at 18 psi

wouldn't that hold up to 400whp since the OEM HG is good when used with arp studs with proper torque?

my hand is up in the air, what do I win?

you could make a small board with a common pic that input the rpm signal and could cut the power to the igniter via a relay. Unfortunatly it would be quite complicated and the ecu will probably trow some code at that moment

the one behind the head is a pita if you don't drop the Xmember somehow