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I am not running power steering so hydraboost would not work.. Having power brakes doesnt necessarily mean the car will stop faster, you just need to apply more pressure to the pedal. the frame rails are what the K-member bolts to. i extended them for the swaybar mounts here is a closeup of the...

is that a question or statement?...

my buddy did the photoshop work, sorry. The radiator being moved back a few inches in my opinion wouldnt change handling enuff to make it worth it. and the upper radiator hose has a 90 deg bend in it, the most you could move it would be maybe 2 in. if that. Id rather be able to use stock...

got body panels mounted up to start with bumper and radiator support. made everything as light as possible and only the basics. I made the radiator brackets mount to the side of the radiator so with radiator removed there is nothing on top. intercooler mounted inside front...

thanks everyone, a couple of people have brought up tokyo drift a few times. I saw it for the first time about a month or so before i was done building it. I no way in any shape or form want to be associated with anything that says fast and furious on it...:nono:

This was the first sight of her Then trip to chicago to pick it up, props to my buddie jim for trailor use. Got her home and stripped her down to the goods with saw-zaw and prybars Had a old 7m shortblock laying around so i used that for mockup. tight fit driver-side...

I finished creating this monster april 08. Got the mustang for free because it was basically totaled, had the engine laying around waiting for a car so it was fait. started the project in january 08 in my one car garage at school. everything was done by me, Im in college so this is my budget...

sorry was out of town... with it completely disconnected it is the same..

take it appart and find out what part broke. this will tell the whole story.

heh. yes its hooked up right.. Its odd to me too thats why i made this thread to get to the bottom of it. I had a very similar setup on my last supra and i never had an issue...:1zhelp:

sorry for confusion i set controller to maunal on 0 basically same thing as disconnecting. I have another stock CT-26 layin around i will compare to be 100% but im pretty sure its stock. Atlest the guy that i got engine from didnt mention that...

im on 440s, using shell 93 oct. The AFRs were in the 9s before backing out the screw on mass airflow sensor, now they are around 11. I understand that fuel cut is preventing damage but not being able to go WOT is annoying to say the least.

well I turned gain down, no luck. disconnected boost controler completely, still hits fuel cut.... adjust wastegate??? of course 550s and lex would be great but cannot affod that at this time, just trying to use what i got. There is no dash harness. Being it in a mustang shouldnt change...

lowered gain to 10 gonna see what happens

whats wrong is i have boost controler set at 10psi and it is creeping up on me. it rarely stays at 10.

gain is at 15. im gonna try to lower it to 10 and try that. HAC?

also used a LM1 and AFR was in the 9s. backed screw on bottom of airflow meter all the way out and AFRs are around 11. stoped fuel cut allot but everyonce and a while it will stll hit...

the air to water is a cheap xs power unit from ebay. the engine is in a mustang. It has stock ct26. and 3.73 in rear end. boost controler is a Blitz SBC-ID. that is the intercooler... [/IMG]

My car is hitting fuel cut in 3rd, 4th and 5th. I have 3"DP, air/water intercooler, no 3000 pipe, je pistons around 9:1 compression. everything else is stock. I have my boost controler at 10psi. however boost creeps up to 11 and i hit fuel cut. Im curious as of why boost is creeping up on me. I...

i have access to a injector cleaner and flow tester. I can clean them for you for 50$ you pay shipping both ways.