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dash brace with self tapping screw.

my battery post clamps would be tight but as soon as i would start the car the power would die completely. test the power and ground cables.

disconnect the o2 sensor and the ecu and check the continuity threw the wires. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=50 if you get none theirs a open in the circuit somewhere.

how about the stock 7m rubber part the sits on the firewall.

ya i edited it.

sorry to thread jack but if i adjust the idle screw to the tsrm the linkage binds. any reasons behind this?

iirc stock has 5 blades and the upgraded have 6 blades + the inlet will be bored out. you could measure it to find out for sure. also your not going to get 500hp out of a ct.

what code are you getting. and you need to pull the fuse for at least 30 sec(if you already didn't know)

clifford alarms. cheap and is the same as vipers at half the price.

hot dam nice eyes.

did you reset the codes?

ok thank you.

. i have read the thread and numerous other threads plus what i have learned working at toyota. can you pin point me to exact info on how they are not as most toyotas are?

wow. really what do they expect just hand outs. its not like the company or person paid for it in the first place and they just want it for free. i wouldn't mind giving someone i know something like that if they needed it but some random guy just wanting hand outs is just wrong. if someone...

i believe stock head bolts are stretch type one time use. ive reused head bolts and been fine but ive also had 1 head bolt back loose on a diff 7m(with no probs.). ive also seen techs have come backs because they didn't use new head bolts that were stretch type(but on a diff engine. please...

when was the last time the bulbs were replaced? you can pull the bulbs and doa visual check to see if the hot wire(little coil) inside the bulb is still connected and no gaps. do you have a volt meter so you can check to make sure you have 12v(power) & 0v(ground) at the sockets with the lights on?

spin the upper from where the upper and lower meet and look threw where it meets at the gauge. i think thats what you meant it just confused me for a sec.

ditto. i was there from march 06-07 at the rancho school. i had the early class and was working till 11pm the first half so i pretty much slept threw half the whole year and had only 1 c the rest a's, b's and never re-phased + took my full 12 hours every phase. it was too easy since it was...

its fairly easy. only really takes a phillips screw driver for the top piece and your hands for the bottom piece(maybe some pliers). that is if you have a jack to get under the car. hope that helps i have no idea how much shops would charge for that. i would assume something close to 100/hr...