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for stock oil pressure gauge those are "normal" readings.

very beautiful car man and love the bbs.

coilovers>tems. quality shock with springs>tems. tems are nice to go from smooth ride to sportyness with the touch of the button. you can get drilled rotors that will help dissipate heat better and some quality pads. slotted rotors will wear down the pads faster and iirc same with drilled...

or .5mm. edit: stock is 83mm so if your 20 over you will be fine with either 84mm or 86mm.

well i have seen it and you obviously dont know what they are capable of. its almost the same as bumping the starter with a breaker bar to the frame. the torque of the impact turning the crank pulley at 500+lbs with no oil pressure(since the bearing ride on oil no the metal itself) will cause...

your right if you know how to use it with soft trigger finger and not blasting the crap out of it but still it seems over rated as a air ratchet with a tq rating of 20-25lbs is more than enough than a 3/8 impact that can tq to 250lbs. its like using a impact on a crank pulley sure it will get...

all pre 89 "should" have the connectors under the drivers dash for the sm comp, which will make it pnp but you would have to check.

you hit 8psi im guessing boost? whats you oil pressure reading? does your turbo have shaft play? how old are your valve stem seals? what made you buy the car and how much for what kind of condition if you dont mind me asking? was he member on here? and if so who?

i know that. i know there are different sized impacts with diff torque ratings. yes they are fast but sometimes they ruin parts. a air ratchet would be more up to the job as you could break the bolt loose and then use air to remove the bolt. breaking bolts by hand with a quality socket with...

no its not as the turbo will use more fuel since it has bigger injectors and they have a turbo and n/a sm comp. i have a n/a sm comp and it says ge on it not gte which i have seen pics of.

i would post a thread about this but i dont know enough about this. im not trying to start a argument about this and they way i read it, i think you may think i am. i just think that a sticky about all the info about the difference between the n/a and turbo auto should be a sticky. there are...

from one not even caring about the auto and knowing well about the many many usefl info from the tsrm, i still think there should be a all in one sticky thread here about the auto as i have seen about 10 threads on both sites about the differences between the 2 and just a link to give to people...

this was a waste of time to read as this car was in a thread either on this forum or the other saying he was either going to part it out or sell it. either way its not worth more than 1500 imo.

wow this finally got moved. with that i liked the toaster oven bomb myth.

keep the w58 and dont put strain on it like hard launches and burn outs and you will be fine with a good clutch.

good to know jeff. i think this should be a sticky on the actual differences between the 2.

wow your lug nuts came loose. seems like you need a proper toque wrench to torque them to 76ft lbs.

i have had auto's in my life 1 being a neon while my suprawas down to get me to school and my nova, botb of which i thinkwould be more fun to drive if a manual. imo manual's are more fun to drive than auto's. everyone is different. you posted the links i looked threw them and they showed...

oh i see. i dont care enough about autos to search threw the tsrm(which i guess i should have). i searched threw the epc and did not find any difference between clutch packs but again i do not like autos so having actual facts maybe even a sticky as this comes up often might be a good idea.

seems like you rewired it worng because if you bypass the tail light failure sensor you would have hard wired all tails lights.