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Why do you got to make me wait like that...... Just kidding but no really i want pics now.

You put the light in the place of the fuse so you dont blow the fuse. Like have it there instead of the fuse, ign in the on position, and say pull the efi main relay. The light goes out because you disconnected the circuit and it could be the relay thats your problem or it could be something...

Id like to see another one supra made as long as its not like the lfa or some new bs. Kinda like the corvette where it gets better and better and i think it should have a i6 turbo for sure tho.

Eibachs are a great stock upgrade and with coilovers would actually somewhat decent through the corners. With out sway bars there very stockish swayish feeling going through corners. Coil overs are iffy if you want them to last. Some are cheap and some cheap will crap out in less than a year...

Pretty sure most nissan guys hate on 7m's. 1200-1300 sounds about right.

I love how the turbo has no info at all.

Maybe try getting a 50/50 mix. I have to add some water here and there because my mix is not 50/50. No leaks and never had any. Straight water will boil in the block even if there is no leaks.

It should look just like the pic. The notch on the rotor should be past the stationary notch a tad and line up with the end of the hole.

Dont let it idle and drive it kinda hard out of boost or as little boost as possible.

Which aint crap. Psi does not mean hp. Run a tiny crap turbo at 20+ psi and then run a big turbo that flows more than the tiny turbo does at 30+ psi at 5psi and then you will see the difference. If you want hp then switch to a t4 setup. If not then you can get the boss series bolt ons...

Take the fuse out, Take a old head light or headlight bulb, Attach a wires to the + side of it and attach a wire to the - side of the prongs and then push some of each wire into seperate parts of where the fuse goes. Dont put part of each wire into both slots that will just short out and melt...

Ya thats consistent with a brake dragging on one side. I would pull that caliper and inspect. If the pads are more worn on the inside side then usually the slides need lube. Did you lube the slides at all? Common problem on our cars for them to seize.

I think the 3rd of razoe's with longer fading in holes kinda like the type1 lip from shine would look sick. Kinda like the first red car pic but for the 3rd and have it dip in a little bit more.

Is it the efi fuse? Easy way to not pop fuse's is to take a head light and wire it in place of the fuse, leave the key in the on position and start messing with wires in that circuit. When the light goes out you've found the circuit. If it is the efi fuse then there is more to that circuit...

Try adjusting the tps.

So it sounds cool when you turn it off???

Lotek makes the 2 piller gauge pod with the o shiet handle still there. Lookes cleaner than just having 3 gauges there and then you could store your a piller safely somewhere.

^Says in the first post that he didnt seem to be losing fluid. Supposed to do hard braking from like 60-70ish down to 20ish and trying not to some to a complete stop as much as possible. Some times kinda hard to do but you basically want to brake hard repetidly. Makes them grab hard...

No reason to press really hard on your brakes while not moving. Caliper seals could be leaking and burning on the rotors/pads if they were hot. Did you look at them when you were replacing them and what did you use to push the piston back in? 22ftlbs is the torque for the banjo bolt...

Well its different. Looks good Gl.