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Its going to be on there good since it prolly hasnt been removed ever. Mine was. There is little pry locations tho.

Mine knocks from the front bearing on the trans. Or atleast one bearing on the input shaft. Has play goes away with clutch pressed and after like 1200-1500 rpm tho.

It's in the charging system.

Oil always gets thinner with heat. That's how it works. It's like honey. Cold it barely moves. Heat it up and it pours like water. Try changing the fluid in the trans and diff and put a strainer under it to see what cones out.

70's Toyota celica fastback.

Can't unless you have vin. Blocks are all the same. Heads are different. If your trying to make it a carb legal swap just put everything stock and use a usdm head with egr. Or buy a new block. Or a usdm block off sf and ask for the vin to run it by Toyota.

You have a stethescope to pinpoint where the noise is coming from?

Dont really have any sort of timing control. Like a standalone. Forged pistons would help as well. Might be a better idea to put it aside until your better setup for it.

Lots of heat. I didnt use enough and it cracked but you cant really notice and im not woried about it. I didnt cut slits or anything either. I like the hsd coils as far as the cheaper coils out there. Kai says there awesome. Never owned any but if i didnt get the zp ones i would have gotten...

mhm. Sure..... he I wonder if he actually danced like that or if it was edited.

Was a couple weeks ago at the queen mary. Just getting around to doing something with the pics. this was rhd and we saw it in the parking lot. dunno who it was. roy and rodel wiping off there cars from the small amount of rain that morning Hailed on me when i was...

Go holset and open wastegate. They can be rebuilt for like 2-300$. Manifolds are cheap then just get lines dp. Intake is cheap and precision wastegates are fairly. Of course would need some sort of tuning. And fueling.

If you have the harness it's plug and play. Except splicing for the brake which is optional but a good idea. Can post a wtb someone prolly has one they don't need.

Cut buff polish wax. Wax that ish regualary. Like once or twice a month. Meguirs ultimate compound works pretty well. And the meguirs gold class wax is good too.

Only if you press the pedal with the drum off. If you pull the drum/rotor off sometimes it will be harder if you don't loosen the adjustment first cause of the lip they have from rarely being changed.

You can get a n/a mk4 for like 6-10k. Why not just do that stick a turbo on it and go racing. Much easier. You can find them all day long.

Tires depend on how wide. Something like 20-30 will e flush. Rolling fenders is easy. Depending on how wide might be nesseccary and some altering of the fender liner.

Filters bolt up the same. The accordion hose needs to be in good condition and wd needs to be used to slide it on.

Would not pass emissions since jdm cars don't have egr. Also won't have big brakes and have leas hp.

Ya. Fp will run with key on. Not really a big deal as long as you don't just chill with the key on engine off.